What have you done to your bike today?

Here’s my ridiculous project that I’ve been working on for the past couple weeks.

Traded straight up for this old Mantra as a base for an OG Gravel Conversion.

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Stripped the bike and threw everything in the dumpster.

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Took quite a bit to get the rear end done. Way more time than I was planning to spend in this. Wanted to “relic” the front triangle. Did a classic Klein fade on the fork.

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Rebuilt the hubs, new vintage FH body, relaced the wheels with purple nipples.

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Rebuilt the pivot and then chased and fixed all of the threads.

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Slapped a pile of parts from my bins and bought a Microshift 1x9 Advent group for like $150 and viola. The worst decision I’ve ever made in my entire life.

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This is the future of gravel. You saw it here first.
If anyone is looking to follow @Steve Vai into the future of gravel.

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Ooo... disc brakes might allow for running 700c wheels...

I haven't found anything, but has anyone come up with an adapter to go from the old 22mm Hayes mount to a current flat mount?
 
Ooo... disc brakes might allow for running 700c wheels...

I haven't found anything, but has anyone come up with an adapter to go from the old 22mm Hayes mount to a current flat mount?

26” fork is too small to run 700c. A 26x2.2 barely fits in an old Judy.
 
700c rubs the downtube with a Lefty. Unless you run a 29er Lefty. My co-worker has 30 years of every combination Cannondale MTB ever made, and not made.
What downtube?

Yeah, either lefty setup for 26" fork or maybe go to the 29" one with reducers. The A2C of the circa 2010 29'er Lefty at 90mm was pretty short and it's easy to put plastic spacers in to reduce the travel so it doesn't hit the downtube or crown.
 
What downtube?

Yeah, either lefty setup for 26" fork or maybe go to the 29" one with reducers. The A2C of the circa 2010 29'er Lefty at 90mm was pretty short and it's easy to put plastic spacers in to reduce the travel so it doesn't hit the downtube or crown.

Dennis has the fork on his SS Shimmed to not hit. It’s at like 60mm or something like that. Even bigger problem is getting a rear triangle to clear anything
 
@Patrick it's not really something that can be offered as a solid guide, since it requires modifying whatever you have.

To be fair, there's a few ways to skin this particular cat, including using a (manual) annular cutter to pare back the dropout hoods, too. Not all forks would work there, and if you messed THAT up, consequences would be way worse.

There's not much room available to remove anything else, as clearance on both sides is fairly minimal. I imagine if this was a 34 instead of a 32, this wouldn't have worked at all.

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Consider that most of this was "seat of the pants". I saw that there was extra room for the brake to move in (it actually would have helped the caliper adjustment!), but when I cut another cap down to check, the rotor actually hit the fork leg. Turns out that tunnel vision affects machine work, too. Who'd've guessed.
 
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