BB7's-mattybfat?

[extremedave]

I've never used mechanicals, how do they compare to hydros? Just happen to be a set of XTR's available on the board, was thinking about grabbing them but don't even have the new bike yet...
Thoughts?
Thank you.

 

[walter]

In the world of mechanical brakes, they are the best. Are they hydros, certainly not. I love them, but if you have the opportunity to score some hydros I say get the hydros.

 

[stb222]

Walter is spot on.

 

[1speed]

Yeah, Walter is right on with the actual braking quality -- the stopping power on mechanicals doesn't come close to hydraulics. However, they do have two distinct advantages. First, they are much easier to maintain. No bleeding the lines and they aren't "moody" the way hyrdaulics can be where tiny tweaks can really screw them up (I think this is because the hydraulics work with pressure in the lines -- slight shifts can mess with the piston position, whcih makes them much more likely to rub. If your mechnicals rub, just re-seat them and your done -- takes a few seconds.) Second, they are cheaper, and if that's important then you can save quite a bit of money by getting BB7s (assuming you'd offset the BB7 with the best hydraulics since they are, as Walter said, the best mechanicals -- at least IMO!)

 

[Mildly Wild]

How do they compare (to hydro's) in terms of weight?

 

[1speed]

How do they compare (to hydro's) in terms of weight?

Depends on the hydros -- usually a little heavier, but some of the lower end hydros comes with those big bulky housings. The newer Shimano hydros, though? No comparison -- they are MUCH lighter than anything mechanical.

 

[icebiker]

I've used BB7's on all my bikes since they came out in 2000 or so. Walter's right, they are the best mechanicals out there. I've stuck with mechanicals since then simply due to the fact that - as 1speed said - they are super easy to maintain and adjust. With hydro's you may need to do occasional bleeding (not easy unless you have the appropriate bleed kit for your brakes) and some of them are difficult to adjust the "pad-to-rotor" distance, despite most of them being 'self adjusting". I had Avid Juicy's for a short time and was very frustrated that the front brake pads would rub against the rotor without any brake action. No amount of resetting the pads or re-aligning the calipers would fix it.

That said, my next bike is coming with Magura hydro's, so perhaps my retro-grouch attitude towards brakes will change 😉

 

[mattybfat]

I am staying out of this 😀 anyone who knows me knows my feelings.

 

[extremedave]

I am staying out of this 😀 anyone who knows me knows my feelings.

Tell us how you really feel! (I have no idea btw)

Thanks for all the feedback, I'll have to think about this. Plan to try the BB7's out and see how they feel. I'm going to be slow enough on fattie that a stiff breeze will stop me.😀 I've never run into any reliability issues so far with hydros but it is something I think about. Anyway.
Thanks.

 

[icebiker]

btw, one thing you'll find on the Muk is that the BB7's are a bit underpowered for the wheel weight. I found once they broke in, the power got better, but I think a larger front rotor would be a good idea. I haven't invested in one yet, but it's on my to-do list sometime. Not essential for snow riding as you're going pretty slow anyways, but hydros and/or a larger rotor could make sense in the case of your new bike.

 

[jmanic]

For BB7 set up, I found this helpful

 

[mattybfat]

Tell us how you really feel! (I have no idea btw)

I basically went the opposite route hydro's to bb7's. See I have been using hydro's from the very first set of Hayes that were produced. Since that time I have had just about every brand and then some. All worked like a charm out of the box but at some point they just become a pita plain and simple. Not to mention constant disc rub, broken lines etc. Again this is the east unless your riding DH I see no need for hydro's for x/c riding in NJ. BB7's are just too reliable and with less time working on brakes equals more time for me to keep turning pedals.

I matched mine with ultimate levers and proper cable installation for great feel and modulation. I have had plenty say how surprised they were with my brakes...

 

[Monkey Soup]

Hydraulic brakes work better, plain and simple. If you set them up right, they're pretty trouble free. If it gets to the point where you can't get them to "work right", suck up your pride and go to a shop and let them set them up for you.

Saying there is no need for hydros in xc riding is ridiculous. There are places in NJ with actual technical descents, and mechanicals just don't match the feel, modulation, and power of hydros.

 

[one piece crank]

There are places in NJ with actual technical descents, and mechanicals just don't match the feel, modulation, and power of hydros.

I think the above statement at is subject to personal preference as well. I ride all kinds of terrain with exception of true DH. I run heavy wheels with DH rubber and have never found my BB7's lacking. Would I like the "feel" of hydros? Maybe. Do I need them? No.

I'll stick with the simplicity of mechanicals, and the ability to trail fix them.

Tom P.

 

[Monkey Soup]

I think the above statement at is subject to personal preference as well. I ride all kinds of terrain with exception of true DH. I run heavy wheels with DH rubber and have never found my BB7's lacking. Would I like the "feel" of hydros? Maybe. Do I need them? No.

I'll stick with the simplicity of mechanicals, and the ability to trail fix them.

Tom P.

I think at this point in the development of hydraulic brakes (the technology has been around for way longer than bike application), I think the point that they modulate better and are more powerful is more than just an opinion. And when was the last time hydraulics failed on you on the trail, barring some catastrophic crash that ripped the calipers or reservoirs off of your bike?

Let's be honest here, mechanicals are cheaper, hence the appeal, and there is nothing wrong with that. Most of us compromise somewhere in the name of cost. Let's not pretend though that they better than a good set of hydraulics.

 

[one piece crank]

You're probably correct, and certainly have recent hydro experience I lack. I have ripped a line out when it came to a hospital-or-ditch-the-bike scenario. That's what sent me back to cables.

About modulation, I can honestly say I've NEVER had a situation to complain about. I think this is adequately handled through the brain-to-lever connection...

Tom P.

 

[extremedave]

The conversation has evolved here but...after riding the mechanicals I'd be fine with either design. The BB7's had plenty of power and feel. I might have had a bit of fade on one longer decent, but it was of course slippery so can't say for sure. Plus the rolling stock is just a tad heavier than average! I'd also venture to say the mechanicals are slightly less progressive with the caveat of slick conditions and still not broken in. Kind of a wash.

So, since a set came available I'm switching to hydro's; weight savings and some bling factor.😀 If nothing came up at the right price I'd be just as good with the BB7's...although the stock levers are pretty cheesy.
Thanks again.

 

[woody]

I've never owned hydros myself, but I've been on plenty of rides where hydros have failed somebody due to:
1) air somehow gets into the system so the brake ceases to work
2) slightly bent rotor pushes the pads apart so the brake ceases to work
3) somebody mistakenly pulls a brake lever during a tire change, and the pads close so that the rotor will no long fit, leading to much cursing while trying to pry them apart.

Been running and loving BB7 since before they were called BB7 (BBDB).
I use 1 finger on the brakes, and always have more than enough stopping power.
Never had a problem or known of anyone having a problem with BB7's.
That's "better" to me.

 

[mattybfat]

But woody you dont ride anywhere thats technical 😀

 

[1speed]

I've never owned hydros myself, but I've been on plenty of rides where hydros have failed somebody due to:
1) air somehow gets into the system so the brake ceases to work
2) slightly bent rotor pushes the pads apart so the brake ceases to work
3) somebody mistakenly pulls a brake lever during a tire change, and the pads close so that the rotor will no long fit, leading to much cursing while trying to pry them apart.

Been running and loving BB7 since before they were called BB7 (BBDB).
I use 1 finger on the brakes, and always have more than enough stopping power.
Never had a problem or known of anyone having a problem with BB7's.
That's "better" to me.

On (1) above ... there is nothing quite as fun as encountering that one when you're on a downhill course. That happened to me when I was riding my Kona Stinky at Diablo a few years ago. I found out I didn't have my rear brake after I dropped off one of their bridge ramps. It was the first time I went off that jump, too. I was, and still am, a complete puss when it comes to trail features, so it took my friends a few runs to convince me to try it and then this happens when I finally get the balls up to do it. I stopped by putting my foot in the back like old school BMX and locking up the front at the same time. It was either that or lose it on the next bend. I still hit the ground, but it wasn't nearly as bad as it could have been. Still my buddy who saw it happen told me it was the least graceful crash he ever saw. I was just glad I wasn't dead. The moment I realized I didn't have my brake, I think my heart started beating through the top of my head. Nice little surprise.