JORBA Chainsaw Safety Training 10/26 & 27

jmanic

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Hey gang-
JORBA is sponsoring a chainsaw safety training next weekend and we still have a few spots left.
If you are interested and available both days (10/26 & 27) please post here or hit me with a DM and we'll get you in.

Details:

The 2-day training will be October 26th & 27th and held at Mine Hill Fire Department

Lunch will be provided, please bring any snacks/drinks.

Please note for insurance purposes, attendees must be active JORBA members.
If you are not sure if your membership is current, please let me know and we can check our records.

Participants must complete a waiver

From the instructor:
We start with discussion and video instruction. We will take regular breaks and about an hour for lunch.
Folks should bring their saws and PPE both days.
Day 1 is usually PPE and saw safety/maintenance.
Day 2 is planning and cutting, and cutting some more.


If you have an extra saw or PPE you can bring, please let me know.
The maintenance portion includes sharpening chains,
so if you have one that needs sharpening,
bring it along.
 
I planned on bringing both my big saw and my top handle saw. I have a battery powered one too if that helps.
 
ekuhn said:
I planned on bringing both my big saw and my top handle saw. I have a battery powered one too if that helps.
Click to expand...
Awesome, I think everyone has a saw to bring, but bring whatever you want to work on/work with.
Bring em all.
 
I learned a lot of great information, .....maintenance somehow comes to mind.
 

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Juggernaut said:
New chain and no ground touch…. So no. 👍
Click to expand...
I took the Jorba training a few years ago. I searched and watched various video's after. This one in particular helped me adapt how i deal with avoiding bind on the numerous situations with top bind which is a lot of what I clear. Also helps me keep out of the dirt by keeping a mindset of coming from the bottom where situations allow. 9:20 - 11 min is the section I found particular use for. i have adapted for trail use based on that and related experimentation. I find myself coming from the bottom (at least to start) on more than 1/2 of my efforts as they are often top bind. Keeps me out of the dirt especially once a multi cut required section drops from the first cut down lower and the next cut is close to dirt. that technique from 9:20 to 11 min I follow pretty close for larger trees other than I come closer to center on the vertical cut leaving the last quadrant that im cutting up into where I have a minimized amount of the blade in the tree when it starts to release. amazing how they like to still twist and shift and bind. I'll sometimes cut a a wide surface notch and/or a few relief cuts before coming up into that last quadrant. I may try to get it to release by cutting into that last notch from the top carefully. To me the less blade in the tree when it drops the better. I've been really close but have yet to have to disconnect the power head and leave without the blade and bar (just cursed myself). Wedges are a big help, have 2, get a mini hammer! .

Just wanted to share to help


 
Last edited:
Fat Trout said:
I took the Jorba training a few years ago. I searched and watched various video's after. This one in particular helped me adapt how i deal with avoiding bind on the numerous situations with top bind which is a lot of what I clear. Also helps me keep out of the dirt by keeping a mindset of coming from the bottom where situations allow. 9:20 - 11 min is the section I found particular use for. i have adapted for trail use based on that and related experimentation. I find myself coming from the bottom (at least to start) on more than 1/2 of my efforts as they are often top bind. Keeps me out of the dirt especially once a multi cut required section drops from the first cut down lower and the next cut is close to dirt. that technique from 9:20 to 11 min I follow pretty close for larger trees other than I come closer to center on the vertical cut leaving the last quadrant that im cutting up into where I have a minimized amount of the blade in the tree when it starts to release. amazing how they like to still twist and shift and bind. I'll sometimes cut a a wide surface notch and/or a few relief cuts before coming up into that last quadrant. I may try to get it to release by cutting into that last notch from the top carefully. To me the less blade in the tree when it drops the better. I've been really close but have yet to have to disconnect the power head and leave without the blade and bar (just cursed myself). Wedges are a big help, have 2, get a mini hammer! .

Just wanted to share to help


Click to expand...

This was excellent 👍
 
Fat Trout said:
I took the Jorba training a few years ago. I searched and watched various video's after. This one in particular helped me adapt how i deal with avoiding bind on the numerous situations with top bind which is a lot of what I clear. Also helps me keep out of the dirt by keeping a mindset of coming from the bottom where situations allow. 9:20 - 11 min is the section I found particular use for. i have adapted for trail use based on that and related experimentation. I find myself coming from the bottom (at least to start) on more than 1/2 of my efforts as they are often top bind. Keeps me out of the dirt especially once a multi cut required section drops from the first cut down lower and the next cut is close to dirt. that technique from 9:20 to 11 min I follow pretty close for larger trees other than I come closer to center on the vertical cut leaving the last quadrant that im cutting up into where I have a minimized amount of the blade in the tree when it starts to release. amazing how they like to still twist and shift and bind. I'll sometimes cut a a wide surface notch and/or a few relief cuts before coming up into that last quadrant. I may try to get it to release by cutting into that last notch from the top carefully. To me the less blade in the tree when it drops the better. I've been really close but have yet to have to disconnect the power head and leave without the blade and bar (just cursed myself). Wedges are a big help, have 2, get a mini hammer! .

Just wanted to share to help


Click to expand...

Carry a hatchet instead. Pound wedges, cut branches, and at very worst, a way to bail your bar out of a pinch. Multi function tool over a single function. And takes up similar space.
 
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