Mr.Moto
Well-Known Member
If you have a code reader that does BMW, it will register it. I did mine last summer. I have this one:
Amazon product ASIN B07RTJYLQ8
You can borrow it, but I don't think you are in northern NJ.
Ask an automobile mechanic.
- Thread starter Patrick
- Start date
Amazon product ASIN B07RTJYLQ8
You can borrow it, but I don't think you are in northern NJ.
There are some available for $50-60. So not a huge deal. BMW just doesn't make anything simple.
GTCHAMPION1
Well-Known Member
Interstate makes all the OEM batteries for all high end Europeans
If the stock battery has 950 CCA, how come every place recommends a battery with 850 or 900?
GTCHAMPION1
Well-Known Member
Are you talking about a BMW? Only interstate makes the specification you need, and it is 950 EN with probably 95Ah. If you own a late model BMW the wrong battery may set waning messages related to the battery sensor., and you possibly might have to reset the amperage data counter if the car is newer than 2018
Yes, 2017 BMW.
GSTim
Formerly M3Tim
BMW is the worst with battery related issues. Low voltage can give you multiple problems. My daughter's car was constantly having issues that were all solved by replacing the battery over the years. The worst was one time it wouldn't go into reverse and I thought the transmission was shot, a search on the internet said try the battery. Fixed it, incredible.
iman29
Well-Known Member
Random starting issues on my sons 2006 Hyundai Azera.
Turn on key. Accessory mode and dashboard lights all come on as normal. Turn the key fully and nothing. No click, no dimming lights just nothing.
Then after a few more tries all of a sudden it just works.
When it happens I Tried all the tricks like jiggle the key, use other spare key , use valet key. Had my son exit the car lock it and re enter the car thinking it was something with the factory key ring fob alarm thing. Still nothing.
Sent it to local shop they tested battery, alternator and starter all fine. Kept it 2 days and could not reproduce it.
This comes and goes so infrequent it’s hard to even troubleshoot it. It will work fine 100
Times and then the other day it did it twice in one day.
Seems to me something with the ignition switch which requires dealership since then the keys ring needs to be reprogrammed to the car according to the blogs I read.
Any ideas appreciated.
Turn on key. Accessory mode and dashboard lights all come on as normal. Turn the key fully and nothing. No click, no dimming lights just nothing.
Then after a few more tries all of a sudden it just works.
When it happens I Tried all the tricks like jiggle the key, use other spare key , use valet key. Had my son exit the car lock it and re enter the car thinking it was something with the factory key ring fob alarm thing. Still nothing.
Sent it to local shop they tested battery, alternator and starter all fine. Kept it 2 days and could not reproduce it.
This comes and goes so infrequent it’s hard to even troubleshoot it. It will work fine 100
Times and then the other day it did it twice in one day.
Seems to me something with the ignition switch which requires dealership since then the keys ring needs to be reprogrammed to the car according to the blogs I read.
Any ideas appreciated.
New car
w_b
Well-Known Member
Intermittent neutral safety switch. Car thinks it’s in gear and starter will not engage. Jiggle the gearshift while attempting to start next time it presents itself.
OddTrickStar
Well-Known Member
Intermittent problems are the worse to diagnose, can be quite maddening. Ignition switch, neutral safety switch, solenoid/ relay and inspection of connections/ cables/ plugs would all be stuff to look at. Otherwise 🔥
We had a Taurus like that, was glad to get rid of it really. It never happened to me but i lost track of the number of times my wife would call and tell me the car won’t start, crank but no start. I’d get there and the car would start. Every time. Could never replicate it. Dealer, same thing, could never replicate it.
Years ago my wife had a Saab with their typical key location in the center console facing down. Every once in a while she would make a right turn and the car would stall. She could then start it right back up. 2 trips to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. Called the dealer to schedule a 3rd appointment and the receptionist diagnosed and solved the problem forever. She asked if my wife had a bunch of keys on her keychain making it heavy. Which she did. Apparently as she'd accelerate around the turn the weight of the keys would shift and wiggle the ignition enough to get the car to stall. Took off a bunch of keys and excess crap and she never had the problem again.
Why none of the tech's couldn't figure this out is beyond me if the receptionist new about the issue.
OddTrickStar
Well-Known Member
Not sure, it’s actually a common enough thing to look for or ask about, too much weight on or play in the lock cylinder. Sometimes they make it easy by telling you it stalls when their knee hits the keys.
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
Don't forget the fire
iman29
Well-Known Member
Yeah that does make sense I guess.
He doesn’t have any massive keychain things hanging or I would have suspected the same.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Had four tires changed on the e60 after a flat and think I have a bad tire sensor as it returns to the flat tire warning light a day after reinitializing the pressures. Is there another way to reset after a flat or should I were expect the bad sensor is the one where I have the flat?
I had a flat, and that sensor went bad. Interesting.
When you first turn on the car does the light flash (system fault) or on steady (low pressure)? Did you happen to use any sealer in the flat tire? That can kill sensors.
It’s also possible the shop damaged a sensor.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
No other lights, no sealer, can they can to see which one is bad? Seems silly to change all four