New 1UP Heavy Duty Owner…any tips?

JDurk

Well-Known Member
I will be using the rack similarly. Curious to see your cable setup. The ball in the hitch lock seems secure (but I'll keep an eye on it). Do those have a history of failing?
I just bought a short length of chain at Home Depot and a padlock. Wrap around the rack and thru a safety chain loop, done and secure.
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
Ahhhhh ... super helpful. Thanks, but I'm wondering about the installation of that bad boy. I can see the three holes for mounting to a wall stud, presumably, which would be fine if you got the stud dead center, which is my concern. Not sure what those anchors are for? Clearly not sheetrock, I'm thinking it would tear right off the wall? Lead anchors and concrete would be fine though.

So I'm thinking more along the lines of this: Amazon product but bolted to a section of 2x6 long enough to engage three wall studs with two vertical bolts each, for a total of six. Admittedly tricker in that you'd have to measure and drill into the center of three wall studs instead of one, but ... I'd imagine it would be more secure. Thoughts?

Also thinking about ladder hooks and bungee cords (thanks, iman29).

-kj-


Just to clarify. The ladder hooks and bungee cords are the short term solution while the rack is resting on the floor and leaning on the wall. The hooks are for tying back the bungee cords that get wrapped around the rack to keep it against the wall and prevent it from tipping over.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
so there is secured to the car - since they don't use a hitch pin - I just used the hook-n-loop strap they provide.
For anti-theft of the rack, I've been using their rack specific lock. It blocks the lock-down bolt (jack screw?)
For anti-theft of the bike on the rack, i've been using a cable lock - but they could always disassemble the rack and get the lock off later.
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
For anti-theft of the rack, I've been using their rack specific lock. It blocks the lock-down bolt (jack screw?)


you mean you HAVENT broken out the drill to use the pin hole in the reciever with a standard hitch lock yet? :oops: :oops:

are you feeling ok?



🤣 🤣 🤣
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
you mean you HAVENT broken out the drill to use the pin hole in the reciever with a standard hitch lock yet? :oops: :oops:

are you feeling ok?



🤣 🤣 🤣

It is a class 2 bar with a 3 adapter bolted to it. would go right through "the meat"
 

tonyride

Don't piss off the red guy
How long did it take for you to receive it after you placed the order. I may have to order a Super duty single.
 

kjarrett

Well-Known Member
I had signed up for the waiting list and weeks later got an email saying I had ”exclusive access” (whatever that means) to place an order. I ordered on August 17 (the day I got the email) and it was delivered September 10 So, about three weeks.
 

ebarker9

Well-Known Member
For what it's worth, I made these mounts a few years ago from some scrap material that I had around. Happy to share more detail if anyone wants to do similar. They've worked well.

PXL_20210917_141411673.jpg


PXL_20210917_141422312.jpg


PXL_20210917_141430082.jpg
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Those are concrete anchors.

Hit the middle of the stud! use a finishing nail after finding the stud to get the edges. (or i'll stop by to do it.)

a horizontal 2x6 with a rack hanging off it would torque off the wall - would need to put it vertical, again posing the same problem.
So many questions...

3 in line screws aren't likely to just split the stud (depending on the grain of the wood)?

And how distributing the weight of the rack over 3 studs would torque off the wall but using only 1 stud wouldn't torque off the stud?

I have a similar product that I haven't installed yet 'cause I haven't figured out the answers to those very questions yet (and because I can't get the my garage walls anymore due to the piles of tools/car parts/bike parts/replace with whatever you want I got it).

s-l1600 (2).jpg
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
-For the wood screws, I tend to drill a small pilot hole, smaller than the root diameter of the screw. I find that allows the screw to go in, still have a large purchase with the threads but doesn't split the wood.
-I wouldn't rely entirely on just going into one stud. If I was installing the above bracket I'd get a piece of wood a little taller than the bracket but wide enough to hit multiple studs. Then screw that into the studs, and then the bracket into the wood. The force is then displaced over a larger area. The rack has a good amount of weight off the wall as a lever. Patrick mentioned a 2x6. I'd be using more like a 1/2" plywood 3 studs wide, a few inches taller top/bottom of that bracket.
-The two vertical holes in that bracket would go through the plywood into the stud behind it. But the plywood would have additional screws above/below.

Probably overkill...
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
And how distributing the weight of the rack over 3 studs would torque off the wall but using only 1 stud wouldn't torque off the stud?

@shrpshtr325

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Three lags in tension with the single stud,
1 in tension and two torsion bars in the 3 stud solution.

With yours, i suspect it is a 3 lag solution, with one behind the receiver?
That is a lot to ask of that angle iron hung that way (compressing the U shape, vs being on the bottom with the U in tension)
Think of a tape measure standing up, weight at the top would bend it over.

3 in line screws aren't likely to just split the stud (depending on the grain of the wood)?

pre-drill if worried
 
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Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Steve's wider base reduces the perpendicular distance to the pivot point?
plywood might have more torsional stability than conventional lumber ?? cross weave?
Doubt any backer is needed in a vertical solution, unless the sheetrock is going to crumble.

There are other "raw stud" solutions. Can't find one right now.
 
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Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Not sure i drew the bolt on receiver correctly - it might have two smaller lags in the stud, and be off centered.
Or centered with four lags into the support across studs, which estimates what my drawing.
 

one piece crank

Well-Known Member
Overthinking things a bit?

If the lateral lumber, lagged to the studs, is tall enough vertically (like 6+ inches), then it would require catastrophic wall failure before anything happens to your mount.
 

Magic

Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Team MTBNJ Halter's
@shrpshtr325

SbqYAu1OSCXqgsvLkEgbnnDI5CQFZY6E01viwa0T1bSwPPmgS3xmQE583_pc7AofME-xwrH0opsBHVWrVhLb_EykZEFm54uAAhzbfOYxipWKI9NgMql4LUbALTf1CGPWaPFdsJk04DkF1PARAFiWBg7RZAHl_ckfsMKD-_AAEvSrBgV67sUbnMTYR9EgcHwqSXpi2HBbWWB3tsegFjbQeTNyIH7vOczmeoKsBju1tZTHVceOLO0Ceph8WU3NSRdnCxk3Sb-aUVF5XZtvjJp0kJwiWgB6W3Bkw3X1i_ZOrs7jAq678l-27RsW1v46broUpesKbbE1IENNetnQYdkVis9vL-JNW3E-HA06o_w1QlSjbJhllNJqeVaHQwvA7CfdUu2vjqnPb4R-byHHfvyuedCiW46AM9jJqfVQqNFnel9_2DAjDCOr8Pxd0V-jbc4XyuvQwpGvKIfi7bzCiLS9yHNhTsBmgKNuszBADY48Mnqx7ZAwNr-sFiTH08Buay6Xdfs-z8IjqScsvdppcu4Lp5H2SXhw6b-Sw0xdLGtZRI31uRGGctjjNFuZ4H-P3opwcGly5hNw4LuJX-V3UOVPvQVni-ZTADrP1VuOPAhtO__sOVGB4yj22EaEXrPmq-C8bgBrs1F3QQ16bj_lkBcL0zI-8RfwLIe4f6X_93_jzOmNNhGLvSUqvDbNfz85h46_HUp8XfX4iqcWt_ixm5vx_mU2=w735-h979-no


Three lags in tension with the single stud,
1 in tension and two torsion bars in the 3 stud solution.

With yours, i suspect it is a 3 lag solution, with one behind the receiver?
That is a lot to ask of that angle iron hung that way (compressing the U shape, vs being on the bottom with the U in tension)
Think of a tape measure standing up, weight at the top would bend it over.



pre-drill if worried
I'm not sure what's going on here, but I'm pretty sure nobody is hanging their car off the wall tow hitch.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
@Patrick wtf is going on here?

different hitch storage solutions and how they might attach to a wall.

one solution has the fasteners vertical (on right of my drawing)
other has them horizontal across three studs.

I'm thinking the torsional force (moment?) of the horizontal solution would fail before the vertical given the same arm length and location.
3 fasteners in tension, vs 1 in tension and two torsion rods. This would assume the mount wouldn't pull out of the torsion rod material for simplicity.

Overthinking things a bit?

If the lateral lumber, lagged to the studs, is tall enough vertically (like 6+ inches), then it would require catastrophic wall failure before anything happens to your mount.

sure - but who wants a 2x6 attached across 36" of wall to hold this thing, and probably have to lag through to a stud to prevent the receiver from pulling out of the 2x6.
Guess i could put hooks on it for other stuff?

i'm not thinking just my 1up, i have a 75lb 4 bike kuat.
 
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