Dingo
Well-Known Member
The shoemakers kids go barefoot....
Ask an automobile mechanic.
- Thread starter Patrick
- Start date
GSTim
Formerly M3Tim
So how do you think the Mustang would run with plugs like that?
this is what happens when mfg dont install 100k mile plugs in the car but noone bothers to check the manuals anymore.
Dingo
Well-Known Member
Probably would not event start, just flood
shit, the mustang gets upset if the gap is off by .010
Funny, car has 95,000 miles on it now....when it hit 85k, I had my wifes cousin do the timing belt on it.....I generally dont do anything on my wifes car that im not 100% sure I can get done in like "a night" She HAS to have her car for work and she wont drive any of my manual trans cars (quite frankly, I dont want her driving them anyway 🙂 ) So her car, anything overly complicated that would probably take me a few days of screwing around, i just give it to her cousin...hes a FAR better mechanic than I am, and its done the same day. Anyway, when he did the timing belt, I thought i asked him to do the plugs and such, but I guess I forgot to ask lol. I also thought I had subaru do it when they had to replace the takata airbag, they gave me something for a discount on service so I had them service the trans while it was there. Guess not.
w_b
Well-Known Member
Your wife calls you Utah????!!!!!
Dingo
Well-Known Member
There are over the air updates, some of those do not get installed correctly and functions go nutty. Remember the super bowl where the truck would not start? It was in the middle of an update, and it locked up LOL Or bring it in and complain. The poor tech will plug in and update. There is usually updates for radio, HMI, radio controls, and BCM. I check all for updates. They all interconnect and wreak havoc. Most guys will only check radio updates. The tech can spend up to 2 hours and be lucky to get 4/10's of an hour pay.
don
Well-Known Member
Finally got a few things on our '11 Ram 1500 done.
The vehicle has had a crazy wobble at speeds for since we put XD 20" wheels and General Grabber AT tires. I did an Eibach 2.5" spring and strut change this summer along with a steel aftermarket bumper and some wire brushing and coating on the front part of the frame. When I had it aligned the camber was visually positive but drove straight enough although it had a decent shimmy about 60-75mph. I had my son take my 2500 back to college so I could have time to figure it out. Once I looked into it, it turns out the LCA bushings were frozen to the bolts. Ended up just getting new LCA from NAPA, spindles from MoparPartsGiants (they were corroded badly when pulled the hubs from them this summer) and UCA from JBA Off Road in PA (really nice people) to get the caster back in spec with the 2.75" lift.
Getting those LCA bolts cut was pretty hair ball with a 7" cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and the truck on a jackstand. Sawzall blades did absolutely nothing. After it was all installed and the front wheels/tires re-balanced it goes down the road pretty nicely now. (still a little shimmy at 70/75 but could be from the tires not wearing evenly and being 35" Load E rated). BTW - all the suspension bolts were heavily covered in Anti-seeze as I wouldn't want anyone to deal with the cutting bolts like I did.
Also the last time at the dealer, the Ram tech said it needed a new rear caliper and it would be $700 to replace (for 1 caliper!). I was like I'll just replace the whole damn rear brakes system myself when I swap the Bilsteins shocks I had ordered for the front. As soon as I pulled the fender liner out and saw a bunch of rust covering the frame I was like f##k it got some more to do. I prepped and treated the sections I could get to with POR15 rust covering and POR15's Top Coat. I'll get the whole truck undercoated down the road. I know a guy in north NJ that does Waxoyl applications but was also thinking a LineX product or seeing if NHOU (https://nhoilundercoating.com/) has a nearby applicator.
It still needs some rocker panels and some other little things so probably more work than it is worth but it's a 5.7 Laramie crew cab with 110k miles and for the price of new trucks at least most of the running gear is good for another 100k.
PS - I ran out of POR15 on the first side and used some Rustoleum brush on primer. Might be a good test between the 2 treatments.
So the ask your auto mechanics questions:
- is anti-seaze worth it and if so what's you favorite to use?
- what chassis treatment do you recommend?
The vehicle has had a crazy wobble at speeds for since we put XD 20" wheels and General Grabber AT tires. I did an Eibach 2.5" spring and strut change this summer along with a steel aftermarket bumper and some wire brushing and coating on the front part of the frame. When I had it aligned the camber was visually positive but drove straight enough although it had a decent shimmy about 60-75mph. I had my son take my 2500 back to college so I could have time to figure it out. Once I looked into it, it turns out the LCA bushings were frozen to the bolts. Ended up just getting new LCA from NAPA, spindles from MoparPartsGiants (they were corroded badly when pulled the hubs from them this summer) and UCA from JBA Off Road in PA (really nice people) to get the caster back in spec with the 2.75" lift.
Getting those LCA bolts cut was pretty hair ball with a 7" cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and the truck on a jackstand. Sawzall blades did absolutely nothing. After it was all installed and the front wheels/tires re-balanced it goes down the road pretty nicely now. (still a little shimmy at 70/75 but could be from the tires not wearing evenly and being 35" Load E rated). BTW - all the suspension bolts were heavily covered in Anti-seeze as I wouldn't want anyone to deal with the cutting bolts like I did.
Also the last time at the dealer, the Ram tech said it needed a new rear caliper and it would be $700 to replace (for 1 caliper!). I was like I'll just replace the whole damn rear brakes system myself when I swap the Bilsteins shocks I had ordered for the front. As soon as I pulled the fender liner out and saw a bunch of rust covering the frame I was like f##k it got some more to do. I prepped and treated the sections I could get to with POR15 rust covering and POR15's Top Coat. I'll get the whole truck undercoated down the road. I know a guy in north NJ that does Waxoyl applications but was also thinking a LineX product or seeing if NHOU (https://nhoilundercoating.com/) has a nearby applicator.
It still needs some rocker panels and some other little things so probably more work than it is worth but it's a 5.7 Laramie crew cab with 110k miles and for the price of new trucks at least most of the running gear is good for another 100k.
PS - I ran out of POR15 on the first side and used some Rustoleum brush on primer. Might be a good test between the 2 treatments.
So the ask your auto mechanics questions:
- is anti-seaze worth it and if so what's you favorite to use?
- what chassis treatment do you recommend?
Attachments
i definitely say anti-sieze is worth it, i bough a big 'jar' of it with the brush on the cap like 8 years ago so im probably set for life, i think it was permatex brand, but i think any of it works just fine, so use what ya got and dont worry about which one. Recommend SOMETHING on every bolt (loc tite or anti-seize depending on the application, there are always exceptions, but for general work thats a good rule of thumb)
p.s. that thing looks like it was living in the ocean for while, where did you buy it from (my 97k mile ram has basically no rust on it, and its a winter driven vehicle)
p.s. that thing looks like it was living in the ocean for while, where did you buy it from (my 97k mile ram has basically no rust on it, and its a winter driven vehicle)
one piece crank
1pc Cranky
Dingo
Well-Known Member
@don I would advise against any undercoating that is like bed liner. It looks nice, but holds moisture under the layer, and then flakes off. The best stuff to use over existing corrosion is waxoyl or Fluid film type. It stays fluid and will creep into the rust pores. The down side is it needs to be applied yearly or at least every 2. It's easy to do it yourself if you have a compressor. My land lord does his Ford van with it every year, in the driveway on jackstands. He bought 5 gallon pail, and has done it 3 times. It sure does slow, even stop the rust. I use fluid film in the aerosol cans. Touch it up every time while on the lift.
don
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the underneath rust is the worst part of this vehicle - it was originally a Canada car.
I should have known but it was the only example available in the area at the time and is the color and configuration we wanted. On the plus side the frame is still very solid. Poking around it seems Ram did a good job designing them.
don
Well-Known Member
I have the grey stuff that is like paint. I still have some on my thing Patagonia breaker that I had on while installing and I washed the jacket 2x already.
I have some of the copper type too but tend to use that on smaller bolts like M8 and smaller.
don
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dingo! My Land Rover buddy does Waxoyl applications in North NJ so I'll hit him up for a price quote/availability.
I've also heard good things about Fluid Film but like you said needs touchup (which isn't that bad). I've also thought about removing the bed and having a portable sand blast guy come and do the rear frame and underneath the bed and do an epoxy primer and top coat but I think that might be overboard for this old Ram.
first time i did any work on the cars after mywife and i moved in she banned me from wearing anything but the oldest most worn out clothes for working on the cars, this is why! (and she works with oils all day and is a master at getting stains out)