What is this on my circuit breaker?

icebiker

icebiker

JORBA: Morris Trails
JORBA.ORG
Our dishwasher died after a power outage a few weeks ago. Before it died, the breaker kept tripping randomly and unexplainably. Before I assume the dishwasher’s control board is fried I want to test the breaker to see if it’s gone bad. On my panel, the dishwasher is on its own circuit and has this strange clip on the breaker. It’s the only one on the panel with this clip. Any idea what it’s for? If I have to replace the breaker, does the clip come with the breaker or do I need to either re-use the existing clip, or buy a fresh one? If latter, what’s it called?
Thanks.
IMG_9340.jpegIMG_9339.jpeg
 
Padlock attachment.

QO1PA - Mini circuit breaker accessory, QO, padlock device, handle, 1 pole, fixed | Schneider Electric USA

Schneider Electric USA. QO1PA - Mini circuit breaker accessory, QO, padlock device, handle, 1 pole, fixed.
www.se.com www.se.com

Allows you to put a lock on it to keep it in 1 position. Oddly enough catalog confirms it allows it to lock in the ON position.

So it's there probably for one of two reasons:

1) It was nuisance tripping and that would be really scary if they used it to keep it on. That's not the intention but only really the intention if there's also suitable protection upstream.
2) They used it to lock it in the OFF position for some reason. Like you want to make sure it's off if you had a generator powering the house with high load devices. I doubt this is the case.

You shouldn't install it on the new breaker... And you could transfer it to the new one if you really wanted to anyway.
 
And yes, I keep a 3" thick Square-D/Schneider catalog next to my desk for light nigh time reading.

Btw, 15A breaker is pretty small a typical circuit and would mean it's got 14AWG wiring. IF you can 100% confirm you have 12AWG wiring to the dishwasher you can replace it with a 20A breaker.
 
Dishwashers are installed with outlets under the sink rather than direct wired now-a-days.
A new DW may or may not come with a whip to plug it in - so check.
Bosch does, and the accessory is to hard wire it.

there is water involved, and no ground fault protection - the lock-out (off) would protect the person replacing the unit.

I'm with Steve - if the wire is 12/2, up the breaker to 20. I may have one.
 
Patrick said:
Dishwashers are installed with outlets under the sink rather than direct wired now-a-days.
A new DW may or may not come with a whip to plug it in - so check.
Bosch does, and the accessory is to hard wire it.

there is water involved, and no ground fault protection - the lock-out (off) would protect the person replacing the unit.

I'm with Steve - if the wire is 12/2, up the breaker to 20. I may have one.
Click to expand...
Just call Mancuso in for the rescue.
 
I'd say leave the breaker at 15a. Unless all of the wiring is exposed there's no way to tell if the whole circuit is 14 or 12 ga unless you start pulling walls apart. If the breaker wasn't tripping before the dishwasher was acting up the 15a will be fine.

There could also be another underlying issue in the circuit, in which case upping the amperage of the breaker is not going to be pretty.
 
Thanks. I’m going to pull the DW out and check the GFI first. If power there then the DW is the problem. If no power then the breaker is the issue.
 
rlb said:
I'd say leave the breaker at 15a. Unless all of the wiring is exposed there's no way to tell if the whole circuit is 14 or 12 ga unless you start pulling walls apart. If the breaker wasn't tripping before the dishwasher was acting up the 15a will be fine.

There could also be another underlying issue in the circuit, in which case upping the amperage of the breaker is not going to be pretty.
Click to expand...

it should be a dedicated line -

i agree that the line could be compromised - ie The nail for a new picture went through it.

No requirement for GFI on a DW circuit. ACFI now tho.
 
Patrick said:
it should be a dedicated line -

i agree that the line could be compromised - ie The nail for a new picture went through it.

No requirement for GFI on a DW circuit. ACFI now tho.
Click to expand...
In the old days, there used to be issues with running high current motors on GFI circuits.
I would still run a 15A CB just to be safe.
 
Santapez said:
Not every area follows that code year. Most seem to lag behind a few.

But GFCI isn't a bad thing on a device with spraying water... If it were me I would go that route.
Click to expand...

The old argument was that the receptacle wasn't accessible, so not a hazard to people. With all the other stuff plugged in under a sink now (I have a GFCI power strip with the faucet, a cabinet opener, window shades) it seems more likely to be messed with.

Still wouldn't want to go spelunking to reset it, so maybe remote protection? Breaker or mounted in a box somewhere ?

Interesting change tho.
 
It was added in the 2014 NEC. NJ typically runs 3 years behind code cycle. We normally see either gfi receptacle under the sink or single receptacle under the sink with a gfi breaker. If it’s hardwired with a gfi breaker, means to lock breaker in off position is required for service
 
In today's good news - my kitchen remodel has a cacfi breaker (final electric tomorrow)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom