What are you all 'Matty' about on your bikes?

gtluke

The Moped
Some people like @mattybfat, @Pampa and @woody (if he had a choice) like mechanical disc brakes because TECHNOLOGY IS SCARY AND YOU MUST REPENT FOR YOUR SINS.

What are you still doing that is dumb but you still do BY CHOICE. I don't care if you have an old bike and it still has some old tech on it. What do you do on purpose? mechanical brakes? tubes? 130mm stems? 160mm rotor up front on a 29er? skinny tires? hubs that require cone wrenches? triple rings up front? Are you just Aaron Courain?

Me:
73mm threaded bottom brackets.
I refuse to buy another bike with one of these stupid 30mm junks. I have NO PROBLEM with the 30mm axle idea, but man does every implementation seem to be majorly flawed.
Once they figure it out I will eventually switch over but seriously this PF30 and BB30 can suck it. I don't care enough about the 50grams to warrant this. I can't be alone either. All the carbon bikes that come with 73mm BB seem to really brag about it in their bike descriptions. I know it's harder to manufacture carbon bikes with the 73mm shell and the frame suffers some weight because of it, they need more BB surface area to build the frame but I'd rather deal with that than CREAK CREAK CREAK TIME TO REPLACE THE BOTTOM BRACKET AGAIN.

27mm seat posts on a hard tail.
Just add to this that i'd never buy an aluminum hard tail, they are just awful to ride. Steel or some exotic material if you're serious. I'm not serious so I ride a steel bike. They ride like 7,000 times better.
Okay so I want the skinny falling out of style seat tube. It's one of the reasons that I didn't buy a replacement Nimble Nine when my Canfield cracked. They bumped the seat tube to 30.9
I want the flex. I think that's part of the enjoyment on the steel hardtail, the better ride quality. I want the bike to be flexible (in some areas) and one specifically is the seat tube and seat post. I believe Canfield did it because a lot of users wanted to run a dropper post. I think you can get some 27mm droppers but that seems kinda compromised. Maybe they are great, never looked into it.

Full suspension 29ers. I think they are dumb, I seem to be wrong about this but they all seem to handle like complete dog poop and it's not worth riding them. The Santa Cruz tallboy might be the only exception. I've ridden a LOT of full suspension 29ers and I just don't like them. I really just hate how high the bottom bracket is, and if you lower the bottom bracket, the bike just doesn't maneuver at all. So you have to choose between sitting up crazy high on the bike and losing confidence and center of gravity, or drop the BB and have a bike that is great at racing but just blows at riding around. You can overcome some of this by making the chainstays as short as possible. But that's tricky, and most bikes don't do it. In comes the Tallboy, or Juliana if you are into purple bikes. I think they made the best effort at crunching the back tire in there. It's the only FS 29er I didn't feel like I was fighting. They also only come with 73mm threaded bottom brackets because they must actually like their customers. Ideally someone will have the nerve to build a bike with a 29er wheel up front and a 650 wheel in the back. But omg, THE HORROR of 2 different size wheels! My Trek Fuel EX full suspension 69er had an AWESOME geometry. Unfortunately they cheaped out on the rear suspension design and the bike overall and I wanted something lighter/nicer.

DW-LINK FOR LIFE
 
I thought about going mechanical brakes because I suck at bleeding and contaminate the pads in the process... then I discovered the RED FLOWER (Jungle Book reference).

My bikes are 3x9 and 2x10 on the mtbs and 3x10 on the roadie and it's because I'm too cheap to upgrade.

I used to be an early adaptor b4 my daughter.... but boy... things sure change.
 
Can you stop calling them 73mm bottom brackets? You mean to say BSA threaded which could be 68 or 73mm. Your issue is with non-threaded bottom brackets, many of which are 73mm.

I think my most Matty thing is square-taper cranks and Shimano hubs on my touring bike. Should be able to get replacement parts anywhere.
 
Indexed shifting is for suckers. Everything should have a backup friction mode. Suntour XC Pro FTW!

EDIT: username checks out
 
ya not sure what racer buying the highest end sram XC groupset needs a 50T cog

That said, I cant wait for sram etap for mountain bikes
 
I have no idea what the realistic long-term pricing will be on the eTap but man that setup totally makes sense. DI2 never appealed to me. On a mountain bike or especially cross bike, wireless makes sooo much sense. The big problem of course is tearing off an expensive rear derailleur.
 
I see absolutely no reason to add 1 pound of weight to my race bike by changing 1x10 to 1x11.
I think SRAM dicked with the naming structure for 1x11. My X01 or whatever it is rear derailure is not as high end as my X9, it's way heavier and way more metal/cheap. It's whatever one is one step down from the best right now in sram 1x11.
THOUGH
The X-Horizon rear derailure is by design heavier, it's a really nice upgrade. It's a nicer design to keep the chain taught on rough terrain.

I still have 9 speed on my hardtail and my fatbike. Not because I'm stubborn but because it hasn't broken yet. My hardtail wheels aren't hardtail compatible so I'll likely never go 1x11
Also my SS wheel is 135mm ONLY, so I'm probably going ot be stuck with 135mm rear ends for a long time since I really like that wheel.
 
My fat bike came 1x10, but with an 11-40 cassette. It's close enough to the 42 that my previous bike had, and with a smaller ring up front, it's more than enough for any riding I do. I only use 3-4 gears anyway, so even a 10 speed drive train is way overkill for me.
 
is XX1 really that much heavier than the setup you have? or just the cheaper stuff?
Cassette, shifter, derail., hub driver added up to ~ 1lb...Which im not against...if it offers some benefit...for my XC bike in which im rarely ever climbing straight up a wall, I dont need that kind of gearing. I can just switch my 34T to a 30T....and even with a 30-11...I cant spin it out in an any mtb race that i have done. All mountain bike, someday ill probably upgrade to 1x11...the 42T would be useful at split rock and i dont care about weight on that bike.
 
Good mechanical brakes that are set up correctly are the shit.

I, by choice, need to have:
  • Threaded BB.
  • Matching front and rear tires. (DHF/DHR was an exception, but same series)
  • Matching front and rear rotor.
  • Line up logo with valve stem.
  • Something pink/purple on every bike.
  • Shimano everything drivetrain, except the SRAM crank on the MTB, but still 24mm.
 
Good mechanical brakes that are set up correctly are the shit.

I, by choice, need to have:
  • Threaded BB.
  • Matching front and rear tires. (DHF/DHR was an exception, but same series)
  • Matching front and rear rotor.
  • Line up logo with valve stem.
  • Something pink/purple on every bike.
  • Shimano everything drivetrain, except the SRAM crank on the MTB, but still 24mm.
huh, no kidding...and you look like a normal guy in person :)
 
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