I wish. Without the power there is hardly any resistance.Looks like you have a race-day warmup smart trainer now.
I thought people just bring a small battery pack or 12V inverter for their car when using a smart trainer?I wish. Without the power there is hardly any resistance.
I’ll try to install that plug you posted and make it a more secure salvage than my duct it and Fuck it.
I have one of these and it works great in general - can't comment on specifics with a trainerI thought people just bring a small battery pack or 12V inverter for their car when using a smart trainer?
They don't use that much power. It's basically radio & power/speed electronics when you're not changing resistance.
If you have battery powered drills you can often find an inverter for those for like $50
I have an inverter. I would try but I really just like rollers to bring to races. Much easier to get and off.I thought people just bring a small battery pack or 12V inverter for their car when using a smart trainer?
They don't use that much power. It's basically radio & power/speed electronics when you're not changing resistance.
If you have battery powered drills you can often find an inverter for those for like $50
He may not even need that...how many volts is the DC output of the original power supply? Maybe you can just add a regulator if it's already 12V... Also, I would try and open the unit to replace the 'decommisioned' cord...I thought people just bring a small battery pack or 12V inverter for their car when using a smart trainer?
They don't use that much power. It's basically radio & power/speed electronics when you're not changing resistance.
If you have battery powered drills you can often find an inverter for those for like $50
I’ve got to get one of my old craftsman ones replaced too. (20+ years old)One of my garage door openers bit the dust (35 yo Craftsman). The other two are just as old, so planning to replace all three. Recommendations on what's good out there, which won't break the bank and take me a whole weekend to install.
I’ve decided when im ready tho to pay him the $200 install since it’s not something I want to risk messing up.
Probably the most expensive option, but if you have jackshafts for your garage doors, I'd start replacing them with side mount openers. They are so much nicer. Easy install too. And you can remove all that crap hanging from the ceiling.One of my garage door openers bit the dust (35 yo Craftsman). The other two are just as old, so planning to replace all three. Recommendations on what's good out there, which won't break the bank and take me a whole weekend to install.
Probably the most expensive option, but if you have jackshafts for your garage doors, I'd start replacing them with side mount openers. They are so much nicer. Easy install too. And you can remove all that crap hanging from the ceiling.
LiftMaster Elite Series 8500W Jackshaft Garage Door Operator, WiFi https://a.co/d/e9d2e31
and more clearance for the lift!
Yeah, I'm considering one for the bay with the 16ft ceiling. Though we've decided to move in about 4 years so I don't see adding a lift in this house.Probably the most expensive option, but if you have jackshafts for your garage doors, I'd start replacing them with side mount openers. They are so much nicer. Easy install too. And you can remove all that crap hanging from the ceiling.
LiftMaster Elite Series 8500W Jackshaft Garage Door Operator, WiFi https://a.co/d/e9d2e31
yeah I mean I am pretty handy and Youtube installer certified ;-)honestly, if youv got a free hour or two, can read, and turn a wrench, you wont likely mess it up. that said if $200 installs two openers, thats not too bad
yeah I mean I am pretty handy and Youtube installer certified ;-)
I keep waffling back and forth to do it myself since there is an opener already installed there and my 21 year old middle son even said jeez you fix all this other stuff just do it yourself and save $200.
on the other hand he said for the same $200 he would also look at the other door opener and tune it up/adjust the door etc... its newer and doesnt need to be replaced just some fine tuning beyond me just lubing the pulleys and rollers.
@shrpshtr325 Is right that it's easy, and it's probably why they're only charging you $200. For those guys they can do it pretty quickly and the fact that you already have a garage opener makes it even quicker in regards to installing as the brackets are already there, etc. It's not like they're opening the box and looking through the directions, they've done it so many times they just start installing and will have all the tools and extra pieces if they think they would be necessary.yeah I mean I am pretty handy and Youtube installer certified ;-)
I keep waffling back and forth to do it myself since there is an opener already installed there and my 21 year old middle son even said jeez you fix all this other stuff just do it yourself and save $200.
on the other hand he said for the same $200 he would also look at the other door opener and tune it up/adjust the door etc... its newer and doesnt need to be replaced just some fine tuning beyond me just lubing the pulleys and rollers.
Bigger caulk?View attachment 235385
What am I doing wrong?
Caulking the bathroom tub: The spacing between the tub and the tile is uneven and pretty large in one spot. I've removed old caulk and cleaned the area. Let it sit overnight to make sure everything is dry. Clean again. Put backing rod in. Re-caulked. Let it sit for 24 hours with a tub full of water for a little extra weight while the caulk dries. Let the water out and let it sit for another day before actually using it... And it still seems to be coming apart again. WTF?
How big is this gap if you needed backer rod for a tub? You’d hope it’s not sagging with water so filling it shouldn’t make a difference. Stretchier caulk or quality silicone may be the way ti delay remodel. Why isn’t Steve retiling the bathroom yet? Or adding support under the tub? Pics.View attachment 235385
What am I doing wrong?
Caulking the bathroom tub: The spacing between the tub and the tile is uneven and pretty large in one spot. I've removed old caulk and cleaned the area. Let it sit overnight to make sure everything is dry. Clean again. Put backing rod in. Re-caulked. Let it sit for 24 hours with a tub full of water for a little extra weight while the caulk dries. Let the water out and let it sit for another day before actually using it... And it still seems to be coming apart again. WTF?
Is support under the tub an option?How big is this gap if you needed backer rod for a tub? You’d hope it’s not sagging with water so filling it shouldn’t make a difference. Stretchier caulk or quality silicone may be the way ti delay remodel. Why isn’t Steve retiling the bathroom yet? Or adding support under the tub? Pics.