I should just buy a bearing puller

kaitlyn

kaitlyn

Well-Known Member
So, I dropped my bike off at the lbs asking them to check the bearings on my park bike because the wheels were running slow. They turned around and advised a whole slew of services, from "tubeless refresh" to "rust-proof coating for the rotors" and a bunch of other stuff. I said no thanks, I can maintenance my own sealant and they wanted 1k anyway. So they did the bearing work and replaced 3 of the hub bearings (but not the 4th?) and it's running me over 500 bucks. They said some of the bearings were seized and required additional time. I should just buy a bearing puller and check them more often. I know the shops are hurting post-pandemic boom, but I kinda feel a little bit of padding is going on...rust proof, ha.
Yes, I'm just venting.

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kaitlyn said:
So, I dropped my bike off at the lbs asking them to check the bearings on my park bike because the wheels were running slow. They turned around and advised a whole slew of services, from "tubeless refresh" to "rust-proof coating for the rotors" and a bunch of other stuff. I said no thanks, I can maintenance my own sealant and they wanted 1k anyway. So they did the bearing work and replaced 3 of the hub bearings (but not the 4th?) and it's running me over 500 bucks. They said some of the bearings were seized and required additional time. I should just buy a bearing puller and check them more often. I know the shops are hurting post-pandemic boom, but I kinda feel a little bit of padding is going on...rust proof, ha.
Yes, I'm just venting.

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Basic safety check, say what?
 
fwiw, here's the original proposal after I dropped off the bike asking to replace bearings. I just think they're hurting in the slump.

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i don't like that the inspect labor isn't credited to the replace.
if you walked in and said replace the pivot bearings, would it be $100?

cost doesn't seem out-of-line, for the hub rebuilds either.

there is a nice sense of accomplishment doing it yourself.
save a few $$, learn a new skill.

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it doesn't hurt to have a pro go over your bike for $25.
there could be a developing crack, which might go unnoticed until it was catastrophic,

might be a different experience if the bike was purchased there.
 
Most of the prices aren't really out of line. Sure does add up though. Not my shop BTW.

For those who mentioned the Rust Blocker, it's just part of the description for some of their rotors.

For example:
The TRP R1 2.3mm 1-piece 6-bolt thick rotor is designed specifically for DHR and E-MTB brakes only.
  • For DHR and E-MTB only
  • 2.3mm thickness provides 47% increased torsional stiffness and 8% better cooling capacity
  • Design reduces vibrations and increases stiffness and power
  • Rotor wear indicators
  • Includes 6 stainless steel bolts
  • Features a clear "Rust Blocker" treatment on arms to help prevent corrosion
 
Bike N Gear said:
Most of the prices aren't really out of line. Sure does add up though. Not my shop BTW.

For those who mentioned the Rust Blocker, it's just part of the description for some of their rotors.

For example:
The TRP R1 2.3mm 1-piece 6-bolt thick rotor is designed specifically for DHR and E-MTB brakes only.
  • For DHR and E-MTB only
  • 2.3mm thickness provides 47% increased torsional stiffness and 8% better cooling capacity
  • Design reduces vibrations and increases stiffness and power
  • Rotor wear indicators
  • Includes 6 stainless steel bolts
  • Features a clear "Rust Blocker" treatment on arms to help prevent corrosion
Click to expand...
Fair enough. Mostly my gripe is that I went in sayinging "please replace the hub bearings and the frame bearings, and I'm interested in a brakes upgrade with bite point adjustment" and they went whole hog on a bunch of stuff I do myself and forgot about my wanting to upgrade the brakes. I'm swapping out rotors soon, they're getting to the wear point. I think something got lost in translation from the front of the shop to the back.
And yeah, it does add up.
I won't shit-talk the shop, I like them. I just want them to listen to me.
 
I work on my own bikes and nothing there seems out of line with that pricing. I actually like that they use a Phil Wood (I believe NTN) bearing in the hub instead of Enduro...

Replacing suspension bearings isn't a rocket science but it can use more bearing puller/press tools than you may realize depending on your bike & linkages. There's lots of options out there from inexpensive to expensive and depending on what specific need either tool on the range could be the one to have.

Some linkages don't have rear access to the bearing so i end up having to use a slide hammer to pull out the inner race, then re-use it with a different end to pull out the outer race. So it definitely takes a ton of time.

The problem with all that flat rate pricing is when you do multiple things it adds up but doesn't really increase their time. If you get the bike in the stand disconnect the shock and then start cycling the rear suspension and checking bearings you're already part way through replacing the bearing.

And you're replacing a lot of bearings here. You don't go nuts with the pressure washer right?

And they charged 2 x $100 for suspension bearings labor. Do they charge PER LINK? Because when I've priced out links from Santa Cruz & Ibis, they aren't expensive. The upper link WITH bearings on my Ibis is $55 new. Under $70 for the links for my Santa Cruz with bearings. I don't know what bike you ride but you could be buying new links and installing them yourself cheaper than having a dealer replace just the bearings...
 
Santapez said:
I work on my own bikes and nothing there seems out of line with that pricing. I actually like that they use a Phil Wood (I believe NTN) bearing in the hub instead of Enduro...

Replacing suspension bearings isn't a rocket science but it can use more bearing puller/press tools than you may realize depending on your bike & linkages. There's lots of options out there from inexpensive to expensive and depending on what specific need either tool on the range could be the one to have.

Some linkages don't have rear access to the bearing so i end up having to use a slide hammer to pull out the inner race, then re-use it with a different end to pull out the outer race. So it definitely takes a ton of time.

The problem with all that flat rate pricing is when you do multiple things it adds up but doesn't really increase their time. If you get the bike in the stand disconnect the shock and then start cycling the rear suspension and checking bearings you're already part way through replacing the bearing.

And you're replacing a lot of bearings here. You don't go nuts with the pressure washer right?

And they charged 2 x $100 for suspension bearings labor. Do they charge PER LINK? Because when I've priced out links from Santa Cruz & Ibis, they aren't expensive. The upper link WITH bearings on my Ibis is $55 new. Under $70 for the links for my Santa Cruz with bearings. I don't know what bike you ride but you could be buying new links and installing them yourself cheaper than having a dealer replace just the bearings...
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This is my park bike. Mountain Creek, I went 27 times last season and ride reasonably hard. I just use a hose, no pressure washing grit into the seals for me, thank you very much.
I don't know about the labor...they said 3 of the bearings were seized and it took them more work than they expected. I ride the GT Carbon Force, and yeah, will be doing the work myself from now on. More fun that way, anyways, and I can 3d print a lot of the bearing press tools. It's the puller that I need to buy. I think, I'll have to look into it.
 
That seems super expensive to me. I’d be annoyed and wouldn’t go back. $ervice charges like this is why i learned to do 99% of my own work, or just sell and move on before it needs to be replaced.

You can get cheap tools on Amazon which are totally fine for home use. I got these for replacing the frame bearing on my Turner: https://a.co/d/5IgOMTz

Just YouTube it and take your time.
 
jShort said:
That seems super expensive to me. I’d be annoyed and wouldn’t go back. $ervice charges like this is why i learned to do 99% of my own work, or just sell and move on before it needs to be replaced.

You can get cheap tools on Amazon which are totally fine for home use. I got these for replacing the frame bearing on my Turner: https://a.co/d/5IgOMTz

Just YouTube it and take your time.
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yea do this, dont waste your time 3d printing bearing tools, the consumer grade plastics for those machine wont support some of the loads necessary to seat bearings. (yes most of them are that terrible) plus holding the tolerances will likely take several tries to get right. This said as someone who has used both standard consumer crap machines, high end consumer machines and professional level 3d printers).
 
This invoice is also not from my shop, but I thought i'd add my perspective.


Most service writers will write a estimate as if the work was to be done on their own bike. They don't even look at the pricing, but rather look at the total scope of the work needed to be done. The pricing is already in the system and not something that a service writer will control.

Most service writers complete estimates with the idea that this bike may not be in for another year or longer for any service. (for example.. if your tires are 85% worn out and the shop knows they won't see you till next winter, it is only reasonable to suggest new rubber.

These types of estimates actually protect the shop. If you refuse certain work and then have problems because of it, there is a history of refusal of service. This is the same in the car world. Basically shoot for the moon, make it near perfect. We often have people come back complaining that X-thing isn't working correctly just to find out that the customer actually refused that aspect of the repair. This is why detailed estimates sent before hand are important. We now text over all estimates as this leaves a nice paper trail.


The issues we see the most is refusal to replace WORN chains, pads and tires. Refusal of all three can ultimately cost more that the initial repair due to unforeseen damages.

As for pivot service, this work can oftentimes look simple but once you dig into it, it becomes a total time suck and uses up you whole afternoon. The more worn the bearings, the more likely they will crack in 1/2 and the outer race is all that remains forever sized in the frame.


These rate vary from a little high to a little low, but nothing is outrageous as compared to the top 50 shops in the country. (I've seen them all)

Service rates have indeed gone up about 20-25% of 2019 (precovid).

Many times an experienced tech will also throw in tons of little touches that you won't be charged for and are simple, best practice fixes. So many bikes have nearly every possible bolt way way under spec torque. Dangerous at best.


Discuss.
 
FWIW, pulling apart a linkage/hub is one of those things where I always suggest replacing the bearings. "Checking" is tantamount to "replacing"...because most of the cost is in the labor, you "save" nothing by avoiding the parts.

I would also echo that it's easily $5-600 for suspension bearing refreshes, especially if they're replacing the bushings in the shock, too.
 
Also keep in mind that hub bearings can be particularly fun. I had some doozies that I took to the LBS (where I used to work at) for a little more guidance. After a lengthy discussion I just brought the wheel home and made a press tool. You should have heard that last bearing break free!
 
Buy this:
Bicycle Bearing Press Set, Drift Bike Tool Kit Set, Turning Point for Wheels Hub Universal Cycle Bearing Press Set, Nice Tools for Bicycle Repair https://a.co/d/3BQEwDp
Buy specific adapters, if you like, but you likely Wont need it.
If i am replacing a bearing, it is trash, so no need for a puller, just knock it out with a screw driver, nail set or a 3/8 socket extension

IMO they worked you, if multiple items are being done there is some efficiency and that should be passed to you. However dont underestimate expertise.
 
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