Hot water heater relief valve

I would be interested to see what your net electrical payment is. What you outlined above is way more than I pay for electric (thinking we both have large, 4-BR homes).
4 br 4400sqft with inlaw sweet in the basement. Previous owners had the homeowner, his wife, two highschool aged kids, and mother in law living in the house. Now it's me, my wife, and two young children. We moved from a much smaller house, with the same electric company (ac electric) and our average bill there was $295 a month for the year prior to moving.

We've lived here since September so I can't really give an average monthly cost without a whole years worth of time. I'd imagine there's some variations between all the seasons. So I'll give you the breakdown of the 12 months prior to us moving in that we requested from the sellers.

Monthly electric bill: -$7 never paid more than delivery charge, and overproduced on some months.
SRECs: produced $290.64 per month
Solar loan payment: $207.27 per month

So they made $90.37 a month by switching to solar.

Let's say that stays the same for me until 2029 when the SRECs run out. I'll have made $6,600. At that point I'd still have to pay $207.27 a month until 2044. That total would come out to $37,306 over that 15 years. Minus the $6,600 from the SRECs, that would be $30,708. If I subtract the $7 a month made with the electric bill for those 15 years it comes down to $29,448. So from now until 2044 my average monthly electric cost would be around $117. Then electricity would be free, or slightly less than free based on how much the panels degrade.
However, I will end up paying far less than that as all the money that the SRECs produce, gets sent right to a principal payment on the loan for the panels. And with a 5.99%apr, I should save quite a bit doing that, and the loan should end far sooner. Giving me free electricity for a few years while still under warranty until 2044. In 2044 I'd like to possibly build a workshop, put the panels on there, and get solar shingles for the house. Will probably buy the battery backup by then, and likely get battery backup for the workshop as well. But that's just wishful thinking at this point.
 
@Mahnken

How is your house heated? I'm wondering if it's worth switching to a heat pump with the solar setup.
Radiant floors, natural gas boiler. When it's time to replace the ac units, I'll likely replace them with heat pumps as another stage of heat. And to have a backup if the boiler fails.
 
Having a Tankless water heater installed next Friday.
Had 2 plumbers tell me I need a new 1inch gas line. Dedicated line from the main to the heater. It already is 1 inch from the main then 3/4 to the heater.

I think it should be ok.
 
Having a Tankless water heater installed next Friday.
Had 2 plumbers tell me I need a new 1inch gas line. Dedicated line from the main to the heater. It already is 1 inch from the main then 3/4 to the heater.

I think it should be ok.

There are online calculators.
The manufacturer may help you with the calculation too.
 
They arrived at 8:30 and left at 4.
Perfectly installed on demand water heater.
Although having it plugged into a power strip was a little disconcerting.View attachment 209626
OldView attachment 209629

Interested and currently researching. I have two to replace. Looks nice and clean except for the electric. Surprised a proper outlet install wasn’t included/ required.

Did not realize it needs a condensate pump. Is the PVC piping the combustion air and flue vent? Also wondering on price; I’m seeing tankless @2-3x the cost of replacing with what you had.
 
PVC pipe is for intake and exhaust.
I mounted a nice power strip to the wall
2 x the cost of a nice Bradford white 40g water heater installation .
My installed cost was north of 5k.
Interested and currently researching. I have two to replace. Looks nice and clean except for the electric. Surprised a proper outlet install wasn’t included/ required.

Did not realize it needs a condensate pump. Is the PVC piping the combustion air and flue vent? Also wondering on price; I’m seeing tankless @2-3x the cost of replacing with what you had.
 
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Thx for the info Glenn.

we can install it for $1k in parts.
Must have needed the pump because of the length of the exhaust run - I remember a call for it in my install instructions
for certain installation conditions. Could look.
 
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It looks nice with the copper as opposed to PEX which I would have assumed.

Although I'm surprised it's hard piped for the gas as opposed to the flex line like the old hot water heater was done.
 
Do you have an expansion tank? I thought you need to have that installed by code on new hot water heaters on the inlet side.

87 is on the high side for general pressure. You must have awesome showers.
 
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