Book of Paul H
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Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
Well... you can also use it to polish your bikes too!
Paul H
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I think it comes with a 6" backing plate.
But I would think you would need a smaller 3" plate to polish your bike. Mother's is fine. Anything other than Turtle Wax. My personal preference is Meguiars.
But you know what... I would just do it by hand. The curves will make it a pain to use a machine.
I also have this but I'm afraid I'm gonna eat through the paint.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html
Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
You don't want to use anything with force rotation if no experience. It will either burn the paint or as you mention, eat thru it. You would want something with a free rotating spindle which is what the HF DA polisher has. If you want, you can bring your frame to my place and you can use my supplies.
Paul H
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I guess the right equipment makes a lot of difference.
Tubeless was almost as easy as tubing. Inflated right away but I didn't hear it pop. It's holding fine tho.
Also, I started prepping for the 10spd on the SL but it doesn't look right to me. Didn't need a hanger with the XT 9spd RD but the 10spd SLX, it doesn't fit w/o the hanger.
Does this look right?
Tubeless was almost as easy as tubing. Inflated right away but I didn't hear it pop. It's holding fine tho.
Also, I started prepping for the 10spd on the SL but it doesn't look right to me. Didn't need a hanger with the XT 9spd RD but the 10spd SLX, it doesn't fit w/o the hanger.
Does this look right?
My prediction is slow coming into fruition.
I think it's ok. You shot the photo at an angle so I have to tilt my head. The RD should pivot where you screwed it into the hanger. You will find out when you put on the chain.
Btw, the buffer does not come with a polishing pad, so I decided not to polish the frame. I'm gonna get it re-painted in 1-2yrs anyway.
I think it's ok. You shot the photo at an angle so I have to tilt my head. The RD should pivot where you screwed it into the hanger. You will find out when you put on the chain.
Btw, the buffer does not come with a polishing pad, so I decided not to polish the frame. I'm gonna get it re-painted in 1-2yrs anyway.
Paul H
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The pad doesn't come with the DA. But you can buy a cheap one at HF as well.
Even if you don't polish, you should wax it. Go to walmart and pick up a cleaner wax from the auto section.
The photo is a bit at an angle but just to give you a frame of reference...
Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
Got my 10spd chain and Jagwire housing today. To the Batcave!
Man it was hot in the garage. It only took me 2hrs but the SL is now a 10spd,
The sad part is, I had already installed the cassette, the RD and striped the bar a few days ago. But still 2hrs to wire the cables, install the chain and index the FD/RD.
I didn't realize when I got the RD but it had a clutch. Nice! Thanks @munk1e I also think the Deore shifters I got is a bit more smoother with less effort than the XT shifters. Thanks @RSabarese
One thing I realized on this job was that I need a better cable cutter. I had to use a pipe wrench on the cutter to apply more force to cut these Jagwire housings.
I also put the wire bead Nobby Nic in the front. I am noticing lately that front slips a bit.
Now wondering if I should use the XT shifters on the Talon. It currently has the Acera shifters which isn't too bad.
Man it was hot in the garage. It only took me 2hrs but the SL is now a 10spd,
The sad part is, I had already installed the cassette, the RD and striped the bar a few days ago. But still 2hrs to wire the cables, install the chain and index the FD/RD.
I didn't realize when I got the RD but it had a clutch. Nice! Thanks @munk1e I also think the Deore shifters I got is a bit more smoother with less effort than the XT shifters. Thanks @RSabarese
One thing I realized on this job was that I need a better cable cutter. I had to use a pipe wrench on the cutter to apply more force to cut these Jagwire housings.
I also put the wire bead Nobby Nic in the front. I am noticing lately that front slips a bit.
Now wondering if I should use the XT shifters on the Talon. It currently has the Acera shifters which isn't too bad.
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Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
I thought riding on the road clipless would get me acclimated to it and help me get prepared for off road but it is not working. However, what it has done, is to make me realize how it can help on the mtb. Went ahead and ordered M530 since it has a bit of a platform and I figure it would be easier to clip in. And since I am more on the saddle on the SL, thats where it is going. Not to mention, I would still like to have a bike with a flat pedal so I can just wear sneakers on those times when I take my kid for a ride.
Anyways, I am going to end pulling and yanking on this thing in ways that it wasn't meant to and I figure I will end up breaking something other than a body part. So, what part do I want to keep a couple of in the garage or in my saddle bag? Cleats? bolts? Which part has the most potential to break in the hands or foot of a noob?
Anyways, I am going to end pulling and yanking on this thing in ways that it wasn't meant to and I figure I will end up breaking something other than a body part. So, what part do I want to keep a couple of in the garage or in my saddle bag? Cleats? bolts? Which part has the most potential to break in the hands or foot of a noob?
I've never broken any pedal part, but I did have a cleat bolt fall out once and it was twisting with the shoe so I couldn't unclip. Just make sure you torque them down well with some antiseize or grease and you won't have an issue. When I get new cleats, I like to check the bolts for the first 2 or 3 rides. If you're just doing very light riding around the neighborhood with the kid, you can just use the platform of the SPD. Then again, pedal swaps take about 2 minutes.
Are you riding road or mtb pedals on the road bike?
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Paul H
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On the road bike I am using mtb pedals. I am too lazy to switch pedals. Let me explain....
This morning I wanted to ride the Talon as this bike climbs better than the SL. What I forgot was that the half wheeler was attached to the Talon. It takes less than a minute to take if off. But went with the SL. lol
Paul H
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Eh... wouldn't wanna do it but maybe the m530s would be better with sneakers.
Paul H
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Couple of things I wanted to work on while riding my road bike... Pulling up and increase cadence. Who would have thought they go hand in hand. Damn noob! It makes sense but I guess its one of those things you don't put together until you put some thought into it... or maybe I am just slightly smarter than the avg bear. What I am realized today was that when pulling up, it creates additional pressure on my contact points with the bike. My ass started hurting a bit but I guess I will get used to it or just buy better bibs or saddle. The saddle on the road bike is a bit firm but I like the shape and I don't get numb nuts anymore as I used to which I figure is more important. I bought those adaptors for road shoes (that @soundz gave me) to use the mtb pedals. I had 2 rides on them and its fine but too slippery to push off of. Not to mention, like regular road cleats, it creates a reverse high heel as @1sh0t1b33r mentioned. Which is not a terrible thing I think. When off the bike, it stretches the calfs which is one thing I like about them. I wouldn't want to walk on those for more than 10 secs but I guess thats not what they're meant for.
Last thought, I went thru a speed trap on a section of road where it was pretty flat and it flickered between 17 and 18mph and I was at a pretty comfortable pace. I went thru it twice to make sure. I won't dismiss the fact that it may not be calibrated correctly but found it odd as my strava tells me my avg speed is 12-13mph. Then again, I am not exactly riding on flats on my entire ride either. If 17-18mph on flats is true, does this make me a B or a C roadie? Or does that just depend on the cycling club?
https://www.strava.com/activities/643861157
Last thought, I went thru a speed trap on a section of road where it was pretty flat and it flickered between 17 and 18mph and I was at a pretty comfortable pace. I went thru it twice to make sure. I won't dismiss the fact that it may not be calibrated correctly but found it odd as my strava tells me my avg speed is 12-13mph. Then again, I am not exactly riding on flats on my entire ride either. If 17-18mph on flats is true, does this make me a B or a C roadie? Or does that just depend on the cycling club?
https://www.strava.com/activities/643861157
There have been studies. Pedaling in circles does not really increase efficiency. Esp on the road.
Some studies will argue that pushing down only is the most efficient.
Personally I just concentrate on pushing down. Sometimes on the mtb it is helpful to pull up on tech sections.
In the end I would just do what feels most comfortable to you.
Some studies will argue that pushing down only is the most efficient.
Personally I just concentrate on pushing down. Sometimes on the mtb it is helpful to pull up on tech sections.
In the end I would just do what feels most comfortable to you.
Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
I don't know if its the gatorade or just my overall fitness or if its is the pulling up but I am not cramping as much on the road bike anymore.
Not to mention, my quads are not in the red as much and I guess the calfs are kinda sharing the load. Don't know about efficiency but my legs are not as tired as b4.
But the reason for wanting to increase the cadence is to lose some fat that I have excess of. Some youtube I saw a while ago mentioned that higher cadence was better for weight loss.
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