Book of Paul H

The ez-out would be your best option in my opinion. Once the olive is out I would also check fox damage to the sealing surface in the brake lever.
 
If your giving up on your break lever give it to me and I'll get it out, might be seized to the side, I'm going to hammer in a Allen key twist and pop that fucker out
 
Wouldn't the extractor expand the olive and make it more stuck?
I personally think that its toast... going to take it apart this weekend and if it is fucked... gonna keep it as spare parts.
The M6000 lever is only $30

Also... thinking of replacing the Guide on the Hightower to XT. The last ride I did at KVSP, I took the Talon and the adjustment needed from Guide to XT was huge. The beginning of the ride was a bit nerve wrecking with bunch of goofs from braking too hard.
 
@Paul H so the xts on your talon are stronger than the guides?

iv been very happy with the guides on my bikes (all 3 of them) . . .
 
Wouldn't the extractor expand the olive and make it more stuck?
I personally think that its toast... going to take it apart this weekend and if it is fucked... gonna keep it as spare parts.
The M6000 lever is only $30

Also... thinking of replacing the Guide on the Hightower to XT. The last ride I did at KVSP, I took the Talon and the adjustment needed from Guide to XT was huge. The beginning of the ride was a bit nerve wrecking with bunch of goofs from braking too hard.
If you're going to get a new lever anyways, what do you have to lose by trying? It shouldn't expand the olive enough to matter but if you're worried about that then try Walter's idea with the drywall screw.
 
The extractor is designed to bite into the metal (as the olive is made of brass it should bite rather well). If you could stick a small Allen key in there (without bashing on it) you may be able to slowly wiggle it out. I would also check for cracks in the lever housing, the stuck olive could be a sign the bolt was overtightened.

I do not have any comparison with any other disc brake system, but my XT M785 seem to bite pretty well paired with the RT-81 Ice-tech rotors. I built the bike using prior-to-last generation components, same as I build my computers or used to buy ski equipment.
 
that could be pad related . .. maybe i should leave these comments in your brakes thread . . .
Could also be rotor related as well.
Have centerline on the HT and ice tech on the Talon. But Guides need more pull to get the same braking power... better modulation as they say.
 
Could also be rotor related as well.
Have centerline on the HT and ice tech on the Talon. But Guides need more pull to get the same braking power... better modulation as they say.


yea thats true, and it was definitely an adjustment having the lever so close to the bar for full engagement, but once i adjusted going back just sucks (i do have the levers adjusted almost all the way out to keep myself happy)
 
are reach and engagement point both adjustable on those guides? or is that the higher level?
 
are reach and engagement point both adjustable on those guides? or is that the higher level?
Reach is adjustable. Had the LBS adjust the engagement pt as close as possible without rubbing because I have small hands. With fresh bleed, they did feel great.
 
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