Ask an automobile mechanic.

Patrick said:
Drill another hole in the arm of the pedal?

how far off is it if you spin it all the way on? maybe even remove the jam nut,
cause it isn't doing anything.?

5" of pedal movement isn't 5" of adjustment up there.



different brake pedal with more options?

please order new pad for pedal.


also - how much travel is there before it starts to bite? wouldn't want to lower it too far ;)
Click to expand...
There's really not much room, maybe a cm before the threaded rod hits the arm. I'll be satisfied with 2" less but ideally more as the gas is about 3.5" off the floor. If you didn't notice, the car was a manual but when converted to 4L60E, just tucked the clutch under the carpet. I'll eventually change it to a proper Wilwood part when I redo the steering column in a year or two.

Brakes are really tight about an inch and they bite hard
 
qclabrat said:
There's really not much room, maybe a cm before the threaded rod hits the arm. I'll be satisfied with 2" less but ideally more as the gas is about 3.5" off the floor. If you didn't notice, the car was a manual but when converted to 4L60E, just tucked the clutch under the carpet. I'll eventually change it to a proper Wilwood part when I redo the steering column in a year or two.

Brakes are really tight about an inch and they bite hard
Click to expand...

i guess the good news is you probably only need to cut the threaded part. @jklett trip FTW!

need to pull the other side to get it out. I don't think there is any way to disconnect it from the inside, even with the brake pedal out of the way.
 
Question on a E60 BMW, I think I may have a bad ignition coil. How do I check it and is it easy to replace on my own?
 
qclabrat said:
Question on a E60 BMW, I think I may have a bad ignition coil. How do I check it and is it easy to replace on my own?
Click to expand...
Just google it. I'm not sure on the E60, but most cars really simple. If the code doesn't specify the cylinder, just disconnect coils one at a time to see which one doesn't affect the idle. That's the bad one. Usually they all start to go around the same time if they haven't been replaced.
 
GSTim said:
Just google it. I'm not sure on the E60, but most cars really simple. If the code doesn't specify the cylinder, just disconnect coils one at a time to see which one doesn't affect the idle. That's the bad one. Usually they all start to go around the same time if they haven't been replaced.
Click to expand...
You mean the scan code or from an error code from the car's UI? Don't have a scanner not see an error code. Car is idling off and sounds/feels like a misfire. When car is cold and put into drive I get a surge and car lerches forward. Maybe not the coil?
 
qclabrat said:
You mean the scan code or from an error code from the car's UI? Don't have a scanner not see an error code. Car is idling off and sounds/feels like a misfire. When car is cold and put into drive I get a surge and car lerches forward. Maybe not the coil?
Click to expand...

I have a scanner, but i'm not home tomorrow, unless you want to meet me around 7am.
it is bluetooth, so you'd just need to load the app.
i'm not sure if those cars could detect a specific cylinder, but they should throw an engine light on a miss.

interesting behavior on putting it in gear. might mean something to the mechanics.
 
qclabrat said:
You mean the scan code or from an error code from the car's UI? Don't have a scanner not see an error code. Car is idling off and sounds/feels like a misfire. When car is cold and put into drive I get a surge and car lerches forward. Maybe not the coil?
Click to expand...
AutoZone can scan codes for free... E60... Mileage? Unplug your MAF sensor and if that is what's causing the misfire it should go into fixed mode, it will run smooth but it will run rich. But best thing you can do is to run codes. Hope is not the Vanos system which will give you inconsistent idle and poor acceleration. BMWs can give you a large amount of issues that may feel like a misfire or cause a misfire
 
GTCHAMPION1 said:
AutoZone can scan codes for free... E60... Mileage? Unplug your MAF sensor and if that is what's causing the misfire it should go into fixed mode, it will run smooth but it will run rich. But best thing you can do is to run codes. Hope is not the Vanos system which will give you inconsistent idle and poor acceleration. BMWs can give you a large amount of issues that may feel like a misfire or cause a misfire
Click to expand...
About 100k, I'll give the MAF check a try today
 
Starting to get a high speed vibration on my Suburban. Feels like a wheel or tire issue. Anything easy to check? Installed new Michelins about 10k miles ago and had alignment done at the same time.
 
Bike N Gear said:
Starting to get a high speed vibration on my Suburban. Feels like a wheel or tire issue. Anything easy to check? Installed new Michelins about 10k miles ago and had alignment done at the same time.
Click to expand...
Shimmy on the steering wheel or vibration felt through the car? Size of wheels and tires? Mileage of vehicle? ...I should start a tech support hotline lol
 
mfennell said:
@qclabrat You didn't mention if the CEL was on. If so, it's trivial with a scanner.

It's not even worth your time to drive to Autozone IMHO. You just need an OBD2 dongle and an app like Torque Pro. https://smile.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2D6ITQTFY8SU3&dchild=1&keywords=obc2+scanner&qid=1620914508&sprefix=obc2+,aps,242&sr=8-9 That one is $13 (Android only - not sure what's best for Apple).
Click to expand...
No check engine lights, though there's several others like the seatbelt tensioner and airbag and more recently the SOS call system
 
GTCHAMPION1 said:
Shimmy on the steering wheel or vibration felt through the car? Size of wheels and tires? Mileage of vehicle? ...I should start a tech support hotline lol
Click to expand...
Lol and commission, I'm trying to convince the Mrs to get a CPO GTR after your glowing reviews. It would replace her aging E60. Are there any bad years for them?
 
GTCHAMPION1 said:
Shimmy on the steering wheel or vibration felt through the car? Size of wheels and tires? Mileage of vehicle? ...I should start a tech support hotline lol
Click to expand...
Not sure where I'm feeling it yet. Just started. I thought it was the road surface the other day, but noticed it again today. 265/65-18. Just passed 80k miles.







 
Bike N Gear said:
Not sure where I'm feeling it yet. Just started. I thought it was the road surface the other day, but noticed it again today. 265/65-18. Just passed 80k miles.







Click to expand...
Sounds like tire balance, maybe a wheel weight fell off. Also look at the sway bar end links, they are known to rust and fall off. Front struts another well known problem, look for leaks. The struts are on major back order, about $650 EACH. I have 5 sets of struts on order :shrug:
 
Bike N Gear said:
Not sure where I'm feeling it yet. Just started. I thought it was the road surface the other day, but noticed it again today. 265/65-18. Just passed 80k miles.







Probably balancing, maybe roadforce matching or flat spots due to low pressure and lack of driving, hope the suspension is OK
Click to expand...


Probably balancing, maybe roadforce matching or flat spots due to low pressure and lack of driving, hope the suspension is OK
 
Dingo said:
Sounds like tire balance, maybe a wheel weight fell off. Also look at the sway bar end links, they are known to rust and fall off. Front struts another well known problem, look for leaks. The struts are on major back order, about $650 EACH. I have 5 sets of struts on order :shrug:
Click to expand...

Ha. Well if that's the problem I can sell my car to Carvana for a few thousand less than I paid for it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom