wow - surf forecast for sunday 9/7/08!

I don't surf at all, but Christine and I usually go up there to see when it gets this big. We've gotten some pretty crazy photos over the years.
 
ChrisG said:
I don't surf at all, but Christine and I usually go up there to see when it gets this big. We've gotten some pretty crazy photos over the years.
Click to expand...

I used to make a living as a surf photog.

Sunset Beach Ohau
S13_1.jpg


Rocky Point Ohau -
S12_1.jpg


also Rocky Point
S14_1.jpg


Salt Creek , CA (I forget the surfers name )
S9_1.jpg
 
ooooohhhhhh YEAH!!!!!!

Dawn patrol, Jenks or Squan. If it's not as big mantaloking or Belmar just to avoid the most crowded spots.
 
ChrisG said:
I don't surf at all, but Christine and I usually go up there to see when it gets this big. We've gotten some pretty crazy photos over the years.
Click to expand...

Someday you are going to regret living so close to the water and never paddling out.

You have an open invite. You know I have a quiver.

J_
 
closeouts galore where and when i saw it. size was good, conditions were clean, the sandbars musta been weird and/or swell direction. i heard further north - like belmar and spring lake - rights were working a bit better but the line up was clogged bigtime - many people trying to catch one rideable section at a time.
 
Great day in the water.

dhsean said:
So, was it good? Let's see some pictures. :)
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I was out from 8-11 and got my share.

There were a million people out but as usual only a few guys were actually catching and riding waves.

I had 5 or more waves that were the longest since last winter.

Some good size despite the hard offshore winds.

I heard that tonight was crazy good.

I will be out again at daybreak for another round.

j-
 
I had a pretty awesome day. Surfed with J up north in the am, waves were good but the crowd was thick. Then took the fam to watch the boat races in Point (the only time I had a camera today)

Click for original size of this one, it was my favorite boat.


Decent shorebreak shot at Jenks:


After the races I hit a more local spot and scored uncrowded super hollow overhead waves until dark.
 
Awesome! Looks like it cleaned up fairly nice. I miss surfing more and more everyday. Somebody should build a surfing park so there are waves everyday for us non-local working stiffs.
 
Got out again today from 6-10.

The size came back witht he rising tide and I had some great rides.

Fun Fun.

Some heavy neg vibes from some angry dudes but what do you expect.
 
I rip

I scored big time. Finally got to use the shortboard for a change. The rights were fast, but working. Most dudes weren't catching because the strong offshores and the super-long period. These two factors added up to make the late take-off the only way to go. I was actually sitting a bit inside of the crowd and picking off anything to my liking. I always say that skateboarding vert experience is some of the best cross-training for surfing big waves since it teaches you the art of the drop.

The 025 buoy topped at 17 feet, 15 seconds. Not too shabby.
 
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