What have you done to your bike today?

Cassinonorth

Well-Known Member
Internal routing with a Park IR 1.2 is a treat - it makes the task go from constant swearing to "wow, that was easy..." which makes the purchase cost a little easier to take.

I just noticed there are much cheaper options available now - including a $17 kit from Amazon. As well as a Jagwire kit for about $36.

Dave Rome is reviewing the icetoolz version right now which apparently is very good as well. I'm waiting on that before pulling the trigger on one.
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Dave Rome is reviewing the icetoolz version right now which apparently is very good as well. I'm waiting on that before pulling the trigger on one.

unless your building up a new frame from scratch i have not yet had a problem (granted, iv only done it on two bikes) using the existing cable/housing to pull the new one through with either tape or heat shrink to hold em together YMMV but ill save my money till I find myself building up a new frame
 

Cassinonorth

Well-Known Member
unless your building up a new frame from scratch i have not yet had a problem (granted, iv only done it on two bikes) using the existing cable/housing to pull the new one through with either tape or heat shrink to hold em together YMMV but ill save my money till I find myself building up a new frame

Yeah, I'm considering a frame up HT build for this winter so it'll be nice to have. I'm probably going to go with whatever my distributor stocks first.
 

Dusty the Whale

Mr.Chainsaw
MTB gonna be fast AF now. Replaced my old bottles and added a carbon cage.

20210601_233237.jpg
 

ebarker9

Well-Known Member
Pulled the rear tire off the road bike to have a closer look at a sidewall cut. Probably fine, but I don't like to take chances with road tires and it's probably time for a replacement anyway. Any NNJ shops have "good" 28-30c road tires in stock?

PXL_20210602_135304311.jpg
 

Cassinonorth

Well-Known Member
If you're worried about getting out quickly enough then you can wind the traction pins in all the way. While leaving them out a little can really make for a solid connection it will also make it more difficult to unclip.

Slightly worried. I've used clipless for years on road so I think my foot may naturally free me...at least hope.
 

jackx

Well-Known Member
unless your building up a new frame from scratch i have not yet had a problem (granted, iv only done it on two bikes) using the existing cable/housing to pull the new one through with either tape or heat shrink to hold em together YMMV but ill save my money till I find myself building up a new frame
Heat shrink soundz like a super-good idea since it may be less bulkier than tape.
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
Heat shrink soundz like a super-good idea since it may be less bulkier than tape.
I tried heat shrink on the Megatower rear brake and shifter cable housing, but you have to get the lengths pretty much perfect. And I didn't, so I had to cut it off. It does look really nice when it's done correctly, tho... I'm sure it's one of those things where you get better at it the more times you do it. Or you say "eff-it..." and buy AXS.
 

goldsbar

Well-Known Member
Tannus Armour for tubeless insert installation. Sorry, no pics as I was too busy battling. Wasn't horrible, but not easy.

Started with one side of the tire bead firmly in place and the other side hanging off the rim. Getting the first bead of the insert into the rim box was a bit more of a challenge than expected, but nothing serious. The instructions then say to install the second bead so the insert would be firmly in the rim before installing the remaining tire bead. This was just impossible. The insert doesn't seem to catch on the rim. There's just know way I know of to get both sides into the rim box.

Modified method was doing the remaining tire bead and insert bead at the same time. This was not easy, as the insert does its best to pop the bead out as you're trying to put it in. Once I got 50% in, the remaining insert was pushing out even more. It was also hard to keep the tire bead in the center channel to enable the last 25% or so to pop in.

All in probably 25-30 minutes. Not horrible, but these rims are not typically difficult for tire installation. I can only imagine putting these in Bontrager carbon rims. Could take all day, but I'd like to do it sometime so I could ride said rims without having them spontaneously combust after a few months like they usually do.

Only one ride so far and I wasn't going that hard. I do have a wobble. Tannus says to grease the insert with soap. I'm just leaving it. The tire does seem to have less - maybe no - squirm. Main reason for rear tire installation was to avoid pinch flats and rim detonations while maintaining reasonable tire pressure.
 

JonF

Well-Known Member
Slightly worried. I've used clipless for years on road so I think my foot may naturally free me...at least hope.
Probably too late for this suggestion but Shimano makes "multi-release" cleats, aka, noobie cleats that will release both with normal twist and with a diagonal pull. Makes it easier to transition into being clipped in knowing you can still panic disengage. Still has plenty of holding power for normal pedaling though. Maybe CB has some similar equivalent to start with?
 

Cassinonorth

Well-Known Member
Probably too late for this suggestion but Shimano makes "multi-release" cleats, aka, noobie cleats that will release both with normal twist and with a diagonal pull. Makes it easier to transition into being clipped in knowing you can still panic disengage. Still has plenty of holding power for normal pedaling though. Maybe CB has some similar equivalent to start with?

I'm pretty used to being clipped into bikes, I'm half kidding about being worried. I took them on a quick spin around the block and they felt awesome. Easier in/out than my SPD-SL's for sure.
 
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