What have you done to your bike today?

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
I'm old, I need the 49T so that I can actually get older...not ready to become bear meal just yet...
I was actually thinking about going to 32t up front but im scared to lol
Currently running 30t on the Eagle on the Hightower.

On the Talon, I was running 32t with 11-42.
But I usually didn't take the Talon to "those" parks
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I was actually thinking about going to 32t up front but im scared to lol
Currently running 30t on the Eagle on the Hightower.

On the Talon, I was running 32t with 11-42.
But I usually didn't take the Talon to "those" parks
What cassette are you using with the 30T?
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
I was actually thinking about going to 32t up front but im scared to lol
Currently running 30t on the Eagle on the Hightower.

On the Talon, I was running 32t with 11-42.
But I usually didn't take the Talon to "those" parks
32x42 is the best I got
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
Uhm, currently on 30x42. When I started I had 32x42 and couldn't push it...let me rephrase that, I had to push it...
TBH... I think 32/42 works ok.... but I do find myself I need to get off the saddle to rest either on a steep climb or long ones.
The nice thing about 30/50 is that I can recover while still being on the saddle. However, I will admit, the 50 makes you lazy so if you are looking to "train" to improve quickly, 50 is not recommended. But, I am not looking to be a racer so I like the fact I can be lazy however slowly I improve.
 

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
TBH... I think 32/42 works ok.... but I do find myself I need to get off the saddle to rest either on a steep climb or long ones.
The nice thing about 30/50 is that I can recover while still being on the saddle. However, I will admit, the 50 makes you lazy so if you are looking to "train" to improve quickly, 50 is not recommended. But, I am not looking to be a racer so I like the fact I can be lazy however slowly I improve.
Do you get rock strikes on your cage when on the 50? Especially on a 27.5 wheel, it looks so close to the ground
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Do you get rock strikes on your cage when on the 50? Especially on a 27.5 wheel, it looks so close to the ground


when your on the 50, if the chain is sized right, the cage is stretched pretty far forward actually, so its not where the cage is closest to the ground.

that said iv had no rock strikes on the cage on either of my eagle equipped bikes (one of them is 27.5+)
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
TBH... I think 32/42 works ok.... but I do find myself I need to get off the saddle to rest either on a steep climb or long ones.
The nice thing about 30/50 is that I can recover while still being on the saddle. However, I will admit, the 50 makes you lazy so if you are looking to "train" to improve quickly, 50 is not recommended. But, I am not looking to be a racer so I like the fact I can be lazy however slowly I improve.

I ordered the new driveline (almost all of it) yesterday. I am going with Shimano XT 11 Speed (no surprise there) 11T-42T cassette and will add the Wolftooth 49T cog to it. It makes for a smoother transition into the 49 than then the 11T-46T and I like to support small companies that come out with nice products (OneUp, Wolftooth etc.).

I am now sweating bullets over the BB and cranks setup, probably going with a 30mm Hope BB and Race Face Next R crank, but it's a lot of money.
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
Do you get rock strikes on your cage when on the 50? Especially on a 27.5 wheel, it looks so close to the ground
On my RD? I don't think I do. I have never had an issue with RD or hanger for that matter in regards to rock strikes thus far.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Do you get rock strikes on your cage when on the 50? Especially on a 27.5 wheel, it looks so close to the ground

This is a 42 but on a 26", but you get the idea.
30T.jpg
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
I ordered the new driveline (almost all of it) yesterday. I am going with Shimano XT 11 Speed (no surprise there) 11T-42T cassette and will add the Wolftooth 49T cog to it. It makes for a smoother transition into the 49 than then the 11T-46T and I like to support small companies that come out with nice products (OneUp, Wolftooth etc.).

I am now sweating bullets over the BB and cranks setup, probably going with a 30mm Hope BB and Race Face Next R crank, but it's a lot of money.
Really? After market addition shifts better? Shimano is messing up then.

Not too long ago, I was really sensitive to the cost (I was cheap) of bike stuff... still am but used to hack things to make things work. But regrettably... while those hacks did work... they just didn't work as well as having the correct/intended equipment.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Really? After market addition shifts better? Shimano is messing up then.

Not too long ago, I was really sensitive to the cost (I was cheap) of bike stuff... still am but used to hack things to make things work. But regrettably... while those hacks did work... they just didn't work as well as having the correct/intended equipment.

Not sure why Shimano stops at 46T, but I realized that a 3 T difference can make...a difference, hence the upgrade. Mass production makes specific choices for specific reasons (production costs, research cost, etc..), small companies can focus on a specific niche and improve an already good basic product. Bling effect may also be a factor, not denying it. And I like to tinker with things, always have.

You would be stuck with your guides brakes if a small company didn't make a specific part that allows you to match Shimano and Sram technology. Why did you ditch the guides in favor of the 8020, the standard product should have been already perfect...
 

Paul H

Fearless OOS Poser
Not sure why Shimano stops at 46T, but I realized that a 3 T difference can make...a difference, hence the upgrade. Mass production makes specific choices for specific reasons (production costs, research cost, etc..), small companies can focus on a specific niche and improve an already good basic product. Bling effect may also be a factor, not denying it. And I like to tinker with things, always have.

You would be stuck with your guides brakes if a small company didn't make a specific part that allows you to match Shimano and Sram technology. Why did you ditch the guides in favor of the 8020, the standard product should have been already perfect...
I don't think sram vs shimano is a good example in this case.

But to your pt, if you have the expertise to tinker and get it right.... I suppose and will retract my previous statement. However, someone like me who has a general knowledge without the expertise, wouldn't be able to make it work perfectly.
 

one piece crank

Well-Known Member
An old training trick I still like: I don't use my largest rear cog (well, I try NOT to use it), just ride around like I have one less gear. I leave that last, low gear as a magic, life-saving fall-back gear for when things really go South! It can take some determination on your part to do this, especially coing out of Winter, but a lot easier then going SS...
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I don't think sram vs shimano is a good example in this case.

But to your pt, if you have the expertise to tinker and get it right.... I suppose and will retract my previous statement. However, someone like me who has a general knowledge without the expertise, wouldn't be able to make it work perfectly.

It's not about just about throwing parts (and money) into the bike, I spent a lot of time looking at specs, data and reviews before making a selection. That said, I did the same assembling the K2 and it still sucks...

The actual installation is really simple due to the standardization of the components, much easier than years ago. As long as you purchase parts that match the correct standard it's pretty simple.
 
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