Through axle coming loose.

Can you grab the lever and tighten it further after it is closed? I used to do this on my HIFI and it seemed to work.
 
μ can't figure it out by yourself?

Actually helpful answer: it's not tight enough to prevent the other side from turning. Drop a few drops of chain lube on the cam surface--it seems counter productive, but allows it to tighten more effectively.
 
Fire Lord Jim said:
Is the lever rotating counter-clockwise? If the lever stays closed, and doesn't rotate loose, but the skewer loosens, I would start with user error (sorry), then try a different skewer, then check the dropouts for flex.
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12mm cam lock. It feels “weird”. Even as tight as it will go


jimvreeland said:
Carbon is contracting due to cold temps and the axle is no longer making contact.
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Happens in the summer too. Axle expanding faster than frame.
 
Karate Monkey said:
μ can't figure it out by yourself?

Actually helpful answer: it's not tight enough to prevent the other side from turning. Drop a few drops of chain lube on the cam surface--it seems counter productive, but allows it to tighten more effectively.
Click to expand...

very well played.

will lube
 
Patrick said:
Fancy!



must be the frame flex and the smooth surfaces. there is a $50 robert axle project - but i don't think it is a solution,
unless paired with a couple of those fancy washers which i'd lose on the trail.

i'm tempted to stick a star washer in there, and see if that does it.
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Not if there's carbon composite under it...
 
Patrick said:
Fancy!



must be the frame flex and the smooth surfaces. there is a $50 robert axle project - but i don't think it is a solution,
unless paired with a couple of those fancy washers which i'd lose on the trail.

i'm tempted to stick a star washer in there, and see if that does it.
Click to expand...
I'd be worried that the star washer is really going to chew it up. How about just filing some serrations onto the flat surface of the nut?
 
You ultimately need to reach the torque value for that part, in order for it to not come loose. Torque to yield is something like 32-40 newton meters depending on thread size, which obviously doesn't work for us on bicycles (and it would probably damage the frame/hub, since it's not built for it). In most cases 10-15nm for a bolted 12mm axle is enough that you only need to look into it occasionally. There are a few ways to deal with your 'coming loose' problem, and one of them is to tighten the preload (in conjunction with lubing the cam, which will help). The other is to address the problem from the other end, and add some fixative to the threaded portion of the axle; QR nuts typically have a nylon insert--it may be worn/not present on your axle. Typical threadlocking compounds are far too aggressive, so you would want to get a purple, for instance, which would still be hand-turnable. You might also try beeswax before that, which serves an almost identical purpose. Grab a small piece, warm it kneading until pliable, then mash firmly into the axle threads.

I appreciate that sometimes fangled/serrated washers are necessary, but this isn't a case where that is true, since there shouldn't be any kind of rotational load placed on the axle itself. They also chew carbon fiber(?) which is why you typically see newer road frames coming with 1) bonded/loose washers 2) smooth faces on the axles.
 
Karate Monkey said:
sometimes fangled/serrated washers are necessary
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GSTim said:
r is really going to chew it up
Click to expand...

that is what i'm thinking - so would want to avoid it.

i'll add a little oil to the cam, and understanding how they work, i'm not surprised they can turn a bit after being engaged with the smooth surfaces.
maybe the carbon paste will be enough?
I like the wax idea - the "nut" it a thumb nut with no insert. speaking of which, if the axle comes loose and the nut gets away from me, i'm screwed!
drill it add a cotter pin. :D
 
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