The DIY thread - DIYourself

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
nice job. which line goes to the pressure reducer? and where does the other one go?

since you have a key, you can shut it at the curb, and crack open the meter. how wonderful would that be in the winter?
i think your new set-up will work
3/4 copper goes to the pressure reducer, 1/2 blue pex goes directly to the tap outside for the garden hose. I maybe adding a valve to shut that one off separately from the rest of the house, but seems like a waste of a valve since I would have to crawl all the way down there just to shut it off. The original setup had one and it was rusted solid just like the main one.

Why would I shut the valve at curb off during the winter, we still use water in cold months...besides, the line g hg asn’t frozen since we lived here and it has been seriously cold.

Pressure reducer is after yet another valve down the 3/4 line. Curiously the 3/4 line goes back down to 1/2 before the reducer. While the line from the meter is 1/2 at the entry point in the house, I wonder if it would be beneficial to bring 3/4 all the way to the reducer. Or update the line from the meter, it is 3/4 or 1” at the meter.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
3/4 copper goes to the pressure reducer, 1/2 blue pex goes directly to the tap outside for the garden hose. I maybe adding a valve to shut that one off separately from the rest of the house, but seems like a waste of a valve since I would have to crawl all the way down there just to shut it off. The original setup had one and it was rusted solid just like the main one.

Why would I shut the valve at curb off during the winter, we still use water in cold months...besides, the line g hg asn’t frozen since we lived here and it has been seriously cold.

Pressure reducer is after yet another valve down the 3/4 line. Curiously the 3/4 line goes back down to 1/2 before the reducer. While the line from the meter is 1/2 at the entry point in the house, I wonder if it would be beneficial to bring 3/4 all the way to the reducer. Or update the line from the meter, it is 3/4 or 1” at the meter.

if you needed to service the valve in the crawlspace again, you could disconnect the meter, and let it drip out there, rather than under the house.

if you don't have an issue with water velocity, don't mess with the line size.

i agree, the extra valve is probably a waste - unless the pex ruptures. then you are going to wish you had it. keep a 1/2" sharkbite cap or 3/4" elbow handy, just in case.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
if you needed to service the valve in the crawlspace again, you could disconnect the meter, and let it drip out there, rather than under the house.

if you don't have an issue with water velocity, don't mess with the line size.

i agree, the extra valve is probably a waste - unless the pex ruptures. then you are going to wish you had it. keep a 1/2" sharkbite cap or 3/4" elbow handy, just in case.
Yes. The plan is actually to sort out the whole setup and replace the loose pipe than runs across the crawl space with one properly secured to the floor joust and use some type shield In addition to the regular foam noodles in order to prevent a pipe rupture from soaking up the insulation. Than line to the outside may get replaced with copper as well.
 
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rlb

Well-Known Member
Yes. The plan is actually to sort out the whole setup and replace the loose pipe than runs across the crawl space with one properly secured to the floor joust and use some type shield In addition to the regular foam noodles in order to prevent a pipe rupture from soaking up the insulation. Than line to the outside may get replaced with copper as well.

More time in the crawlspace!
 

one piece crank

Well-Known Member
Catching up on some more projects...

The task lighting in my kitchen has always been crap, just a single fluorescent fixture over each side of the kitchen. One of them finally crapped out, so I had an excuse to update. After a bit of research, I found HD had a pretty inexpensive tape light setup:


I suspected it was manufactured by Armacost, which was confirmed when the box arrived with Armacost as the return address. I also found this Armacost channel and diffuser kit, and for an extra $25 I went for it. My cabinets are old, and the likelihood of the tape light adhesive sticking to them log term was low, so then diffuser kit solved that:

Add some extra connectors for good measure:



The install was pretty straightforward:
  • Measure and cut the tape, channel, and diffuser cover.
  • Connect up the tape strips (I mounted 3 separate sections) using the included connectors
  • Lay it all out and test
  • Stick the tape to the channel
  • Hand wire the power supply
  • Mount it all up under the cabinets
  • Manage the wires.
I was going to shorten the wire from the power supply, but I ran out of steam and just decided to zip tie it and be done. I need to get some screw in wire clips to hold the wires in place. The included stick-ons are not going to last with the amount of instant pot cooking we do.

Light kit
View attachment 124181

Channel and diffuser kit (missing the diffuser in this pic)
View attachment 124182

How to hacksaw outdoors when your toddler is asleep
View attachment 124183

Tape in the channel
View attachment 124184

All done
View attachment 124185

I dont see the power supply plugged in? Where did you draw power?
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Did you use the aluminum extrusion & diffuser like @rlb or the stick-on strips like @Patrick posted?

I need this.

i should note that i used the diffuser in my kitchen, but to keep a client's project "inexpensive" I just stuck them up there..

1586438310810.png

just sticking them up worked out great for the in-cabinet.

1586438371941.png
 
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THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
OUT DOOR FURNITURE COVERS

anyone using a brand/model of covers that is 100% waterproof
Got some outdoor seating with cushions and would rather just cover them then store the cushions
 

olegbabich

Well-Known Member
OUT DOOR FURNITURE COVERS

anyone using a brand/model of covers that is 100% waterproof
Got some outdoor seating with cushions and would rather just cover them then store the cushions

Sunmart on Amazon for Chaise Chair.

 

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
@Karate Monkey how do you know?
Do you mean the mold loves covers or the cushions when they are covered?
We will probably store them in the winter and mostly uncovered during the nice weather spring thru fall. Plus, going to treat them with 3m outdoor scotchgard
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
OUT DOOR FURNITURE COVERS

anyone using a brand/model of covers that is 100% waterproof
Got some outdoor seating with cushions and would rather just cover them then store the cushions
Not sure, but I think they make chair covers- Ravenna brand on Amazon.
I’ve gotten a few grill/smoker covers and great quality and price.
 

jmanic

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
Staff member
JORBA.ORG
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Got fed up with the squeal of the sliding patio door.
It was the weatherstripping riding on the wood.
What is wood friendly and won’t degrade plastic/rubber?
Puzzled on this for a bit, and it came to me this morning
8904ECAC-DBD1-48A0-88EC-24173551FCFE.jpeg
EVOO for the win!
(Maybe cross post in cooking thread?)
 
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