rlb
Well-Known Member
Agreed, though I did find a box of 2 for a decent price at Costco a few months back.
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
Agreed, though I did find a box of 2 for a decent price at Costco a few months back.
TonyC
Active Member
totally agree, I have 5 motion/security lights around the house & yard two bulbs each. All the bulbs are burnt out. it annoys me, but heck I must be saving on my PSEG bill
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Got one loop of the radiant in and tested. No leaks. For some reason I thought I could do this whole room in one loop but no way, it would have been 500ft of tubing. Usually 300 is the limit on a loop. I'd be willing to stretch it a bit for the 2nd floor because it should be fairly warm up there anyway. So two 300ft loops will do it.
bought a 12ft 2x8
Ran it on my little table saw to take 1/8" off of it to match up with the 50year dried joist. Cut the notch, cut the other end on a 45 and I actually got it in there with no fuss. Thankfully that 4x4x8 girder ended exactly a joist width apart from the next joist so I was able to just squeeze the new joist in there to bring it flush with the ceiling then finally pop it into place on the ledger. A tube of PL Premium and 4 lag bolts to cinch it close, then a dozen nails with the framing nailer. Should be good to go now.
I ran out of pex hangers and they should be here tomorrow with the additional tubing. So I put up insulation where I didn't need any hangers.
Got the recessed light pots in with some shitty barbin bin bulbs for now.
Also got some more of the rigid insulation in place to box in the heated joist bays better.
Oh I also had to take the transfer case out of my car to get to some bolts that fell out. There must be some weird harmonic going on in my car. That coupled with the "automatic mitsubishi undercoating system" aka massive oil leaks from everywhere, SO MANY BOLTS fell out. I was telling @woody the other day that my car had some weird vibration. It was that bolt bolts fell out of the jackshaft/intermediate shaft on the front axle. It's a 2 piece front axle, and the reason why I can floor my car at 270hp and take my hands off the wheel. And if you try that in a piece of shit 90hp honda the car turns left. When one axle has a different angle than the other and you torque them up they pull on the front end at different rates. I have no idea why those bolts fell out. But 2 of the bolts holding in the trans fell out, and 3 of the 5 bolts holding in the transfer case fell out. Really odd. I never had a single bolt missing in that car before ever, and suddenly every bolt in a very small area all fall out. All those bolts are within a foot of each other. No other bolts on the car were missing. So odd.
Anyway that's fixed.
Had a productive last 2 nights.
I have been entertaining the idea of using radiant heat in order to get rid of the baseboards that take up every segment of the outer perimeter of our already small house. kKnd of lost interest due to the fact that the house has a crawlspace and that think is nasty. Plus it didn't help learning about the timber rattlesnake living in the Ringwood areas, so I am now convinced that I must have a nest in my crawlspace! The setup I was looking at had thick aluminum foil covering the entire back of the floor between the two adjacent joists which made sense to me, and it was a DIY kit as well. I am reconsidering now, especially since it looks like I have to crawl down there anyway to straighten the dining room floor in preparation for tiles.
Ah the joy of being a DSM owner...I now consider it a good training for being a home owner though. Once a bolt goes missing it may have introduced a vibration that loosened the other 4, I wouldn't worry about once you replaced them and possibly use some high strength red loctite.
the 'thick foil' is a reflective barrier (for the radiant part), and prevents convection in the bay near the heated floor. There are a couple different types. Under that, the bay should be filled with batt insulation, preventing convection at the macro level. it can be faced or not - there shouldn't be a problem with condensation there. Bay ends/rim joist, should be heavily insulated. research is split on putting a run in the last bay against the rim.
The retrofit, undermount system that @gtluke is using here, is the latest. previously, they used annealed aluminum, bent around the pipes to transfer heat.
i'll crawl in that crawlspace! gunna cost ya tho. kid needs new basketball shoes
rlb
Well-Known Member
Looks like a big enough job! Nice.
rlb
Well-Known Member
So I'm "mostly" done with a few punch list items like pantry door & shelves, toe kicks under the cabinets, the thankless job of caulking and filling nail holes, and painting the trim. Now that I list it out my 100% by next weekend goal is not looking good. Today I got the remaining counter top and the cabinet above the fridge in and wrapped up the wall trim and the trim above the cabinets. I shuffled some things around in this area to get a wider fridge in there. That coupled with the fact that nothing over here is square, plumb, or level and it looks like a drunk orangutan put it together. Motivation to get the "real" kitchen renovation going, but that's a few years out.
For now, I need to get this done so I can focus on my next project.
For now, I need to get this done so I can focus on my next project.
rlb
Well-Known Member
Thought about it, but I'm not gonna do it. I grabbed a box of slides and tried one drawer but it didn't work out. I couldn't get them mounted perfectly square so the drawer bound up at the end. Instead of wasting time on that I just decided to reassemble everything and live w/ the crap drawers for a few more years.
rlb
Well-Known Member
Maybe I'll give it a shot then
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
the 'thick foil' is a reflective barrier (for the radiant part), and prevents convection in the bay near the heated floor. There are a couple different types. Under that, the bay should be filled with batt insulation, preventing convection at the macro level. it can be faced or not - there shouldn't be a problem with condensation there. Bay ends/rim joist, should be heavily insulated. research is split on putting a run in the last bay against the rim.
The retrofit, undermount system that @gtluke is using here, is the latest. previously, they used annealed aluminum, bent around the pipes to transfer heat.
i'll crawl in that crawlspace! gunna cost ya tho. kid needs new basketball shoes
I was going by this http://www.radiantec.com/installation-manuals/installing-tubing-between-floor-joists/ good to know there's something even better to look for.
It's a maze in the crawl space, not looking forward to go down there for some floor leveling fun prior to kitchen tiling...the A/C ducts do not help either!
gtluke
The Moped
I researched this to death. I would again go with what I did.
Get everything here:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Radiant-Heat-297000
I wouldn't try to do anything that spanned the joist bay. On my first floor there might have been one bay that didn't have shit in it. Like gas pipes, water pipes, electrical, nails coming from above.... the kit I used lets you move it around a bit more to avoid stuff. You can cut them in half with a chop saw too.
Then just put fiberglass bats in. There is a bunch of nonsense about using reflective foil and stuff under it, no way does that work. Well it may work a tiny bit the first year but then it just all gets covered in dust. You use the bats just to trap the heat in a 2" space between the insulation and the floor to really drive the heat into the floor instead of heating more air.
I'm at 11 zones in my house right now. I way undersized my manifold when I first started. I have one more zone to go and then I MAY in 50 years one day do my garages and the walk in closet above my garage. So that's 3 more zones.
If you have a good boiler you can also use this setup to do sidewalk snow melting.
edit:
That foil stuff you posted also is probably noisy. The amount that non-aluminized pex grows when heated is crazy. I think a 300ft coil grows like 20ft when hot? That foil has got a to crinkle a bunch when the tubing moves.
The pex with the aluminum in it hardly grows but it's a huge bitch to work with. It kinks EASY and once it does it's done. Your choices are a $10 fitting to repair it or start over.
rlb
Well-Known Member
This has inspired me to start designing the real kitchen layout that I want. Still need to iron out some details and tweak things but this is a start. The shaded walls in the lower right will come out, but I might need to leave a post in the corner. Either way an island will go there. I also need to replace the bay window with dual panes and move the existing doorway. But first the deck needs to get moved so I can put a slider in the dining room, which is the room cut off on the bottom. Some day...
Are you going to put water in the island?
What is the void behind the pantry?
was that an outside door that is being closed off?
cool! i'm sure you'll mess with it 100x
- i wouldn't put the refrigerator right next to a window like that. flip it with the sink - leave the bay or at least the opening, set the seat of the new bay at counter height
and run the counter top into it - sink centered. (but then again, that is what i did, so i'm biased)
where will the groceries come from?
where is formal eating (if you have a dining room?)
What is the void behind the pantry?
was that an outside door that is being closed off?
cool! i'm sure you'll mess with it 100x
- i wouldn't put the refrigerator right next to a window like that. flip it with the sink - leave the bay or at least the opening, set the seat of the new bay at counter height
and run the counter top into it - sink centered. (but then again, that is what i did, so i'm biased)
where will the groceries come from?
where is formal eating (if you have a dining room?)