maybe, but my timeframe is all over the place. but also, no idea how that wood be possible.
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
rlb
Well-Known Member
Also, crawling around the attic for a weekend is a great excuse for dismissing anything else you're asked to do for the next few weeks.maybe, but my timeframe is all over the place. but also, no idea how that wood be possible.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Well, you know what they say about free advice…maybe, but my timeframe is all over the place. but also, no idea how that wood be possible.
Didn't have nearly as much time this weekend as I hoped, but I got the rafter vents started...
Need to figure out what to do around that one vent... prolly split one piece in half? The vent itself should help create an air channel.
Need to figure out what to do around that one vent... prolly split one piece in half? The vent itself should help create an air channel.
did you wire the lights?
Couple of holes bored through that blocking should do it. Watch the nails so ya don't ruin the drill bit.
Run the wire on top of the collar ties at 90deg. Staple every 4'. saves the drilling.
Diagonal runs make drilling and insulation a pain. not so much for just the couple of bays, just in general.
Bonus room over garage? looks like a nice size space.
meh.. it's done.
Two bedrooms, a jack and jill bathroom, and a laundry room.
Any HVAC guys here? We had a long delay, and my installer is now jammed. Need 6 supply (2/br, 1 bath, 1 laundry) and 2 returns run off existing unit already in attic.
you can give ultimate aire out of wayne a try, they did our entire install, (full fit of central a/c in a 100 y/o house) No clue what their availability is at this point tho
Since we're going in the HVAC direction, does anyone have experience with in floor radiant heating? I currently have a "high efficiency" modulating condensing boiler supplying finned style baseboard heaters. Additionally, I added a minisplit unit with low temp heating capability this past summer, largely for air conditioning, but also reduce our use of propane during the heating season, which is my biggest gripe (among many) about our house. I'd love to get rid of the baseboard heaters because our house is fairly small, they take up space, look terrible, and generally are a pain. The hydronic system is already set up as 4 separate zones (no clue why someone did that in our small ranch house), so it seemingly would be:
-Run pex with aluminum plates attached to the subfloor. I have good access from below.
-Insulate the underside of the joist bays...probably fiberglass or mineral wool batts covered by rigid foam
-Incorporate mixing valve to address temperature difference between the radiant and a couple of baseboard heaters that I'd have to retain
-Connect to existing circulating pumps
-Profit??
-Run pex with aluminum plates attached to the subfloor. I have good access from below.
-Insulate the underside of the joist bays...probably fiberglass or mineral wool batts covered by rigid foam
-Incorporate mixing valve to address temperature difference between the radiant and a couple of baseboard heaters that I'd have to retain
-Connect to existing circulating pumps
-Profit??
Last edited:
Yep - Supplyhouse.com did the plan and supplied all the parts for me.
There is a layer of reflective insulation just below the plates holding the pex - i used annealed AL shaped to the pex and stapled.
The insulation layer is like bubble wrap with a shiny side. It is stapled in to seal the top of the system.
Then fiberglass insulation - i used faced pointing downward.
I have another application that used AL extruded channels - not complete yet.
Use rigid foam sealed at the ends of the joists bays. - couple of layers - it is under the wall, so don't need the pex there anyway.
Seal it with caulk if needed.
Don't put the pex in the last long joist bay. Just insulate it well.
If you have a lot of windows, the heat pump will help when it is windy.
Set up one of your zones with the mixing valve. Watch the direction of flow - the mixing valve goes before the circulator, so will take some plumbing.
One other thing - I used copper plumbing until it got to the joists, so the pex isn't exposed anywhere.
Doesn't need to be that way tho - can use a manifold for multiple loops/zones.
Not sure this will save you any propane unless you combine it with electric hot water. In which case.....
I could post some pics if that would help - you are welcome to stop by too.
Heat pump is sized for ~60% of the heating load, which is the main way I'm hoping to reduce propane usage. Electric hot water to supply the hydronic system would be great, but given the number of extended power outages we seem to have I'm not opposed to having the propane system which I can easily run with my 2kW generator. I do have a lot of windows and they're fairly old. House is also quite leaky in general. I've done low hanging fruit air sealing but anything more extensive will ultimately require re-siding the house because the first floor walls are masonry and really only feasible to insulate from the exterior.
I'd certainly be interested in some pictures. Very much in the early planning stages, but if I get closer I might take you up on the in-person, thanks.
@ebarker9
I have 3 radiant circulators - one has 2 zones (two bathrooms, your feet will love you)
Wire blocks, upper left, are for thermostats - also have central A/C
Mixing valve lower left (it needs new internals after 15 years)
Black box is zone controllers - turns on correct circulators and calls for heat
High temp cut-off stops boiler from exploding.
There is also an in/out temp monitor to help with mixing valve and circulator speed (white box)
Extra transformer for zone valves..
Zone controller on wall -
I have 3 radiant circulators - one has 2 zones (two bathrooms, your feet will love you)
Wire blocks, upper left, are for thermostats - also have central A/C
Mixing valve lower left (it needs new internals after 15 years)
Black box is zone controllers - turns on correct circulators and calls for heat
High temp cut-off stops boiler from exploding.
There is also an in/out temp monitor to help with mixing valve and circulator speed (white box)
Extra transformer for zone valves..
Zone controller on wall -
BananaFred
Well-Known Member
Hector and his crew at Air2Cool are great. https://www.air2cool.com/
ekuhn
Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about this as well - master bedroom and master bath are on its own zone. She was complaining it feels colder in the bathroom and the tile feels cold in the winter. Its hot water baseboard currently with 4ft of total baseboard in the bathroom, with 10ft in the master bedroom. Could I convert part of that zone/loop to radiant in the same fashion as @ebarker9 but still keep it apart of the same zone/loop?
Not really. Baseboard is 180f or more. The floor is 135 in max. Don't want it much hotter than 80 on the surface. No way to fork off locally. Would need it's own circulator and mixer. Usually needs it's own thermostat with floor sensor too
Could go with electric mat but it needs to be right under the surface treatment
ekuhn
Well-Known Member
Well that's plenty of reason not to do it. I'll go with the more cost effective option. Wear socks and buy another bath mat.
Funny, I was going to suggest some nice slippers and a robe for your wife for Christmas.
So far it has worked for me.