The DIY thread - DIYourself

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Replacing the function selector on my range for the second time in 7 years.
Last year I repaired this one - a spring/contact had worked its way out of place.
This time, not so lucky. I ordered a spare BP (before pandemic) - a quick fix this time.
They are cheaper from UK than here, so just ordered another for the spare parts bin.

So can i claim this was destroyed by fire? 🔥🔥🔥

1614864773358.png
 
Last edited:

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Replacing the function selector on my range for the second time in 7 years.
Last year I repaired this one - a spring/contact had worked its way out of place.
This time, not so lucky. I ordered a spare BP (before pandemic) - a quick fix this time.
They are cheaper from UK than here, so just ordered another for the spare parts bin.

So can i claim this was destroyed by fire? 🔥🔥🔥

View attachment 153028
Where does the spark happen? Could it just be a loose spade connector?
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Where does the spark happen? Could it just be a loose spade connector?

it is a mechanical contact which is closed with a spring. i'm going to guess after so many cycles,
there is carbon build-up, and at some point it "almost closes" which causes arcing. which caused all the
extra heat in that area. i may pull it apart and take a few pics. or throw it out.
 

MadisonDan

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Ok... quick question... I drilled a pilot hole a little crooked for a lag bolt that's holding the rail for a barn door, and I need it to be straight. Thinking the best solution is plug it with a dowel with a little glue, then re-drill. Is that the correct fix?
No, I can't move it somewhere else.
No, fire/explosives are not an option.
Yes, new bike is option, but wood still need to fix this anyway.
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Ok... quick question... I drilled a pilot hole a little crooked for a lag bolt that's holding the rail for a barn door, and I need it to be straight. Thinking the best solution is plug it with a dowel with a little glue, then re-drill. Is that the correct fix?
No, I can't move it somewhere else.
No, fire/explosives are not an option.
Yes, new bike is option, but wood still need to fix this anyway.
Dowel, re-drill, throw out the old lag-bolt, change to a machine thread lag-bolt, T-Nut that goes in from the back side. It'll be really secure.

And Stainless Steel for it all.

1616169679568.png
 

MadisonDan

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Dowel, re-drill, throw out the old lag-bolt, change to a machine thread lag-bolt, T-Nut that goes in from the back side. It'll be really secure.

And Stainless Steel for it all.

View attachment 154139
Can't access the back, but I will be using t-nutz for some climbing stuff I will eventually build for @ANWJrWill.

This or oversize the hole and install a larger bolt.

Not sure of the bolt size, but start with a small pilot hole on each before drilling in either scenerio.
Can't change out the lag bolt, because of the rail. The pilot hole was 1/8th, and I think the lag is like 3/8ths.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Ok... quick question... I drilled a pilot hole a little crooked for a lag bolt that's holding the rail for a barn door, and I need it to be straight. Thinking the best solution is plug it with a dowel with a little glue, then re-drill. Is that the correct fix?
No, I can't move it somewhere else.
No, fire/explosives are not an option.
Yes, new bike is option, but wood still need to fix this anyway.
Make sure the dowel pin is fluted. Then re-drill using one of these...
5114qToRP+L._AC_SL1200_.jpg

I personally like to use tapping inserts, which could also be a solution here.

61vjbI1mcRL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
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