The DIY thread - DIYourself

serviceguy

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
THATmanMANNY said:
@jnos Thanks!
Almost completely out. 13' wall. We discussed flush. It is on slab. Current estimate falls just 'maybe a bit more' and I feel is a little high but not like I'm getting robbed high. Just higher than anticipated. But you are right that it may be a little tricky and the guy comes highly rec'd.
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What type of beam are you going to have put in place? I had a 16’ span done with a 12” steel I-beam with square steel columns on the sides (hidden in the walls). It was more toward the top of your range rather than the lower one, and it wasn’t replacing a wall but a previous grossly undersized beam, they even had to push the roof back a little where the old beam was collapsing.
 
serviceguy

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
THATmanMANNY said:
I'm not sure. Would need to pay the architect/engineer to design. Gotta pay that mofo too grrr
Thanks for the gauge gents
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I had to pay for the architect to design my new subfloor, except he designed a 12” joist subfloor section where the whole house is built only over a 6x2 subfloor...the contractor had to redesign it and re-submit the plans to the city. The same contractor ended up making the structural load calculation for the beam and submitted it to the building inspector that approved it. If you have a trustworthy contractor you could save the architect money if he’s capable of doing that, still if both the contractor and the building inspector are in the wrong line of business you maybe screwed for good...
 
Patrick

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
THATmanMANNY said:
I'm not sure. Would need to pay the architect/engineer to design. Gotta pay that mofo too grrr
Thanks for the gauge gents
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since you want it flush (it may end up hanging a bit depending on joist size above) two temporary walls need to be built.
all the joists cut back, the beam slid up (it is going to weigh 300lbs)
not too many hangars there. you need to fill every hole in the hanger with a nail (the right nail too!)
also hope your slab is thick enough - need to drill a pilot hole and check - probably needs 6" , or footings under the posts will be required.
are both sides on the slab, or is one terminating on the foundation (end wall)?
the temporary walls are going to mess with your ceiling drywall.

windows can be a pain. do you have vinyl siding ?
are they on the wall the supporting the joists?

i think the better way to go is to get the architect or structural engineer to draw up your plans, then have them bid on,
so contractors know what they are expected to work with. I have an architect for you - i also have a local contractor

as an aside, i did a recessed beam in my house in a weekend to the engineer's specs, not counting the drywall - about 16'.
just needed some friends and a material lift to get it in place.

the higher end of that number seems reasonable - not including materials. ie - will you pick a $300 window, or a $3,000?
 
shrpshtr325

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Patrick said:
as an aside, i did a recessed beam in my house in a weekend to the engineer's specs, not counting the drywall - about 16'.
just needed some friends and a material lift to get it in place.
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i remember this beam "15 minutes first guys, then we can go ride" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . :oops::eek:o_O:rolleyes:
 
mattybfat

mattybfat

The Opinion Police
Team MTBNJ Halter's
A competent contractor can give your specs to most reputable lumber yards and have the proper lvl beam speced without the cost of engineer or architect, just saying. All it should cost you is the permit/ inspection fees.
 
THATmanMANNY

THATmanMANNY

Well-Known Member
@Patrick good point about bidding. This Recommended Carpenter just came about so it wasn’t like we had plans. But I just phoned my good friend PE structural eng.
@mattybfat hmmm interesting. I’ll call some local lumbar yards.. Does it depend on the township/bldg Dept that will accept plans without a stamp?
 
mattybfat

mattybfat

The Opinion Police
Team MTBNJ Halter's
As long as you show a drawing (sketch) with size and support most all twp will accept. Remember twps carry there own structural engineers or sub one.
 
jnos

jnos

Well-Known Member
Patrick said:
the temporary walls are going to mess with your ceiling drywall.
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Cut back the drywall also. Cut a 3'6" wide channel (3'6" so that the tapers on the new sheet of drywall can be cut off).. This puts the temporary walls directly on joists. Also, allows you to avoid nails/screws within 6" of the new beam (less drywall cracking/settling).

Patrick said:
as an aside, i did a recessed beam in my house in a weekend to the engineer's specs, not counting the drywall - about 16'.
just needed some friends and a material lift to get it in place.
Click to expand...
In case it helps anyone in the future:
These jigsaw blades are really good for finishing off the joist cuts:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GUY8IT0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_X4ndDbNXWD9XH

I did a 500LB+, 20'+ beam with only one other person. Had the lumber yard drop the beam on saw horses on the side of the house. Cut a hole in the side of the house. Used black pipe to roll the beam from the horses to supports between the temporary walls. Two material lifts.
 
Patrick

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
jnos said:
Cut back the drywall also. Cut a 3'6" wide channel (3'6" so that the tapers on the new sheet of drywall can be cut off).. This puts the temporary walls directly on joists. Also, allows you to avoid nails/screws within 6" of the new beam (less drywall cracking/settling).
Click to expand...

this would have been smarter on my part - i ripped an 8' sheet to refinish mine....it has since been ripped down, and the whole room redone....
 
Patrick

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
rick81721 said:
The cat sleeps in the washer? ?
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the cat likes to chew stuff, like the rubberized floor in our workout area, the gasket on the washer, pipe insulation (which is really funny
when he runs with a 3' section) acts like a dog mostly - runs up to greet ya when arriving home, etc.

he does sleep in the laundry room (with the door shut, so he doesn't terrorize the other cat, and keep us up all night.)
 
iman29

iman29

Well-Known Member
Patrick said:
the cat likes to chew stuff, like the rubberized floor in our workout area, the gasket on the washer, pipe insulation (which is really funny
when he runs with a 3' section) acts like a dog mostly - runs up to greet ya when arriving home, etc.

he does sleep in the laundry room (with the door shut, so he doesn't terrorize the other cat, and keep us up all night.)
Click to expand...

Thanks that made me feel better that our one cat only likes to chew Shoelaces and low voltage power cords.
 
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