What are your chainrings and cassette range?Admittedly haven’t ridden a 1x so take that FWIW. I sought a 2x due to my prior road experience and the fact that most “gravel” in these parts is at best 50/50 paved/unpaved. To me it’s less about the fitness and more about running a close ratio cassette for optimizing cadence on the road sections.
With that said, I’m finding the 2x11 GRX to be very finicky up front and I’ve been eyeing up the parts to try a 1x conversion. I guess I should try it before I swear it off.
46/30 with an 11-34 cassette. The 30/34 combo is enough to get me up all of the hills around here (palatine etc). Any gravel climbs I have not cleaned would probably not have been helped by more gears (Monkey Knife Fight goat hill road is the first that comes to mind).What are your chainrings and cassette range?
The guidance i've seen mentioned in multiple places when building up my rig was that if you are going pure gravel, never paved; go 1x. if you do a mix with substantial road in there, def go 2x. But i suspect its really all about your ratios and being able to make use of what you got. You can gear 1x really high for speed (if your frame will accept a big ring) or low for climbing. Its about being honest with your application and intentions.
For x-country consider 10 speed, much strong chain and you may even find them at a Walmart if needed. I think @liong71er was on either 10 or 11 when he was riding his KM to the west and with minions. 12 speed chains never last long for me.At this point I'm ready to make the move to 1X for everything. I'm not racing anyone, so even on the road it's really nice not to think about shifting the front. I think even for the cross-country trip I'll run 1X with a 10-51 rear, 12 or 13 speed.
Currently on my gravel bike I have 1X with a 42 front and 10-46 rear 11 speed.
So true. This would definitely matter whether you are retrofitting or buying new.This is also based on tire size. Basically can't run 2x on most modern gravel bikes, that's why I use my road bike with 33s for road/gravel mix instead of the Warakin.
I started out on a 2x but 5+ years ago switched to a 46 x 10-50 red/eagle AXS and never noticed an issue with cadence. Always ran 172.5 cranks. Never wanted to switch back but I come from the MTB world more than a road setup so I’ve never been focused on steady cadence (prolly should have). Could ride anything in Bedminster on that gearing but would grind up parts of black river, pickle, palatine and the very top of Bissel and always go about half the speed of most of the beasts on here anyway.What are your current setups? Did you make changes from a different setup? Why? Also does crank arm lengths matter as much vs mtbs? I have options on either 1x or 2x but leaning towards 2x as 1x was tough last year with current fitness level.
If your GRX front derailleur is finicky, make sure it was installed properly. It should come with a little metal stick-on tab that you put on the seat tube. You then tighten a set screw against it to create another point of contact to brace it in position. It made a world of difference on my bike.Admittedly haven’t ridden a 1x so take that FWIW. I sought a 2x due to my prior road experience and the fact that most “gravel” in these parts is at best 50/50 paved/unpaved. To me it’s less about the fitness and more about running a close ratio cassette for optimizing cadence on the road sections.
With that said, I’m finding the 2x11 GRX to be very finicky up front and I’ve been eyeing up the parts to try a 1x conversion. I guess I should try it before I swear it off.
I have a 10 52 AXS mullet setup on my gravel bike with a 40t up front. I think I’d rather have gotten the xplr with closer gearing on the cassette The jumps on the Transmission cassette are big and I keep searching for the right gear.
Until I’m on single track and then I’m happy I have that 52t. 😂
Walter, there’s no such thing as perfect gearing. Everything is a compromise and it’s soooo damn easy to go down the endless rabbit hole chasing ideal gearing. Choose the gearing for what you ACTUALLY do. If you ride in groups, keep the cassette tight and go 2x. If you mostly ride solo, tight ratios aren’t really big consideration so save the headache and go 1x. If you only ride places that require a 52t once in a while, why build your whole drivetrain around that scenario? If dismounting and walking 100’ twice a season lets you keep the ratios more enjoyable for the majority of your rides, isn’t it worth the minor inconvenience? Just say’n.