Suggestions for the race bike?

xc62701

Well-Known Member
Hey guys/gals. I've been riding a Fisher Ziggurat and it's recently been demoted to a paperweight since the rear chain stay is about ready to break. In it's place a new Trek 9.9 Elite carbon hartail is coming and I'm running over a couple of things to lighten it up. Here's the specs. It's got a Fox F100 RL, Bontrager Race Disc Wheels, Kenda Blue Grooves Tubed, Full Sram X0, Bontrager Carbon cranks, Avid Juicy 7 Brakes, Thompson Post, Bontrager Race Lite stem, Race X Lite Bars, Bontrager Race Lite Saddle, and Crank Bro's Egg Beater SL Pedals.

So far a Chris King headset is going on. And I believe I'm going to order a set of the Mavic Crossmax SLR wheels which will help out tremendously. I'll probably run them with tubed tires and stans. What other suggestions do you have to lighten this puppy up?
 

anrothar

entirely thrilled
+
bontrager carbon rigid fork.
chain tensioner

-
shifters
derailluers
90% of cassette
big chainring
little chainring
a large amount of your chain.

probably save 5 lbs doing that. maybe more.;)
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
I already have that on my Trek 8000. That's a lite rig. You'd be proud. I need a little variety. :D
 

VelocityBoy

"Sleeveless Joe"
Why run tubes in the tires? Get UST tires and maybe run the Stan's as insurance would be my suggestion.
 

Norm

Mayor McCheese
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I'd personally recommend against Stans with Kendas. I guess some people have no problem but IME that's the easiest bead I've ever seen to get on/off a rim. You drop pressure in that tire and IMO you're asking for air to burp out. I'm not well-versed in UST, but I'd be afraid to run non-UST Kendas w/o a tube.

As for the race bike - list some weights. Make a chart. That's going to be the best way to figure this stuff out. Funny I'm kinda going through the same stuff but not (yet) throwing any money at it. Just trying to figure out where it makes the most sense to spend time/money to lower the weight.

I'd recommend a scale like this to get the weight of the bike:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1164

I actually just bought one yesterday. If you choose the slow shipping option it's free. Apparently accurate to 20g so for the overall weight of the bike it's a great tool to have. If you want component weights a lot of the Weight Weenie crowd uses MyWeight scales:
http://my-weigh.balances.com/

I'd make a list of weights broken down like this:

Wheelset
Frame
Fork
Tires/tubes
Cranks/Rings/BB
Shifters/Brakes
Brakes
Pedals
Cassette
Rear der
Seatpost
Saddle
Chain
Bars
Headset
Stem
Front der
Grips

Also set a target weight you want to shoot for. Without getting insanely expensive I imagine 22 pounds is a reasonable weight to aim for. If you want to get 20 or sub 20 you're just talking a lot of cash, and who knows about the reliability of that stuff.

Or you could just go nuts here:
http://sales.light-bikes.com/extralite/extralite.asp

The cranks are 200g less than XTR but in the same cost realm. I've read some people aren't thrilled with performance in any adverse conditions over the long term.

Obviously you can go nuts with this stuff.
 

Tommyklein

New Member
Stans ZTR 355

Depending on your weight and riding style. You can build up a set of -1500g stans wheels for much less than the crossmax and run them with stan's yellow tape and regular light weight tubed tires (maxxis crossmark/ignitor). This is the set up I run and they're light, however, I don't think their as durable as crossmax. Definitely not an everyday beater training wheelset, but very light for race day.
 

xc62701

Well-Known Member
Depending on your weight and riding style. You can build up a set of -1500g stans wheels for much less than the crossmax and run them with stan's yellow tape and regular light weight tubed tires (maxxis crossmark/ignitor). This is the set up I run and they're light, however, I don't think their as durable as crossmax. Definitely not an everyday beater training wheelset, but very light for race day.

Yea I've got a lead on a couple of different manufacturers that are pretty comparable to the Crossmax's with their +/-. I'm looking at all 3: Crossmax, Stans ZTR's, and the industry 9's. Trying to see what's the best bang for the buck. They all look solid. This will be a race only wheelset. As a matter of fact it'll be a race only bike ;-). I just got word that it "might" be built up for the race Sunday. The best possible scenario is that I get it Saturday night for the race Sunday. Nothing like getting a brand new rig and having the first ride in a race. I might just do a decent spin when I get it Sat night to work it in and then decide if I'll run it - IF it's ready...
 

pinkshirtphotos

Active Member
boxxer world cup or maybe 888 world cup really light
industry nines
ti coil
road cassette
road saddle
thomson seatpost
sunline bars and integrated stem
xt cranks



ohhh im sorry yall xc people. then :confused:
 

anrothar

entirely thrilled
actually ryan, since you do have a ss and are used to climbing in the bigger gear, have you thought about 2x9 with a road cassette, short cage derrailluer? you would save weight all over the drivetrain with that setup. it's already light to begin with i would imagine...
 

Norm

Mayor McCheese
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Hmmm, what kind of weight savings you thinking? Like 5 ounces? 8? Interesting.
 

pinkshirtphotos

Active Member
actually ryan, since you do have a ss and are used to climbing in the bigger gear, have you thought about 2x9 with a road cassette, short cage derrailluer? you would save weight all over the drivetrain with that setup. it's already light to begin with i would imagine...

thats what ill be running next season shimano road cassette, sram xo medium cage (dont run short cage if your using two different size chain rings. use medium for 2 gears) e 13 drs and front gears will be 22 and 34.:)
 

Norm

Mayor McCheese
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Here's a great site if you really want to lose sleep at night comparing Ti bolts to steel bolts.
http://weightweenies.com/

Yeah I've been on that site before, it's almost too much info. I find if you're looking for a specific part just go to the Save Some Weight forum on MTBR and search it. If you want a bike comparison you need to find a listing of the lightest things you can find and compare it to your bike, then find where you can save the most weight and what it will cost.

Some of those guys have sub 18 pound bikes.
 

anrothar

entirely thrilled
Hmmm, what kind of weight savings you thinking? Like 5 ounces? 8? Interesting.

i dunno, it might only be half a pound, but considering how light that bike comes stock, it's probably the cheapest way to save that much weight.
 

Wazu

New Member
Weight loss should start at the wheels. Don't get the Mavics. Get hand built wheels. They are straight up just plain better and sometimes cheaper. They are also built for your riding style, weight and individual requirements. I went to Dave Thomas. Just look him up on mtbr.com when you go to wheelsets reviews. DavesWheels SpeedDream. Also, rumor has it that John at CycleWorks is a Wheelbuilding Wizard if you'd rather keep the money local. I've had Mavics, XTR and Bontrager wheelsets on past bikes and non compare with what I have now. Rims, hubs, spokes, nipples...all hand picked and hand built trued and torqued for cheaper than the Mavics. And they are lighter by more than just a few grams too.
 

pinkshirtphotos

Active Member
i just happen to have an almost complete wheelset for sale. hope xc hubs (ano blue) front is laced onto a mavic 717 rim the rear hub lost its rim. not to many miles on them. $200 and its yours.
 
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