SS newbie questions
- Thread starter rosceaux
- Start date
There can be only one "Fast Freddie"
w_b
Well-Known Member
LOL an aha moment geekin' out on the trails... I failed to consider as the oval ring grows in X, it shrinks correspondingly in Y, so taken all together it's constant? No such thing as a small half?
When we get a pizza I always get the larger half.
yes - that was what @serviceguy pointed out. drop a vertical through the center, there are always the same amount of teeth on each side,
since the chain pitch is constant, it must have the same 1/2 circumference, no matter the position of the chainring.
what changes it what you said - the height of the chainring relative to the cog - so the distance must be longer. just not a lot longer.
A Potted Plant
Honorary Sod
So how much oval is too much oval
JDurk
Well-Known Member
Biopace
FastFreddy
Well-Known Member
Well he is riding the number 1 plate and I'm actually a Jr. so maybe I can be FastFreddyJr then? And on a side note the latest MotoGP bikes are crazy looking front wings, rear under swing arm wings, carbon brakes etc....
rosceaux
Well-Known Member
So....
I installed an oval chainring (OneUp 32t) and did a very minor reset to my dropouts. Gave it a 5 minute spin around the neighborhood last night and then subjected it to a rigorous N=1 study at Baldpate this morning.
It didn't make anything harder (which is good), and it didn't magically send me up previously impassable sections (which is also good). I would say that there was no difference in feel for the flat sections, but that there was an appreciable difference in feel on the steeper sections. While I was still standing and mashing, it definitely felt much less "stampy" than it did before. Rather than feeling like the bike got stuck when going up steep tech - like previously - it felt like I just needed more strength to pull it off. Those are all very good things. It is likely that I was able to sit and spin a little longer before having to stand. Overall, a solid first impression.
Thanks for the input.
I installed an oval chainring (OneUp 32t) and did a very minor reset to my dropouts. Gave it a 5 minute spin around the neighborhood last night and then subjected it to a rigorous N=1 study at Baldpate this morning.
It didn't make anything harder (which is good), and it didn't magically send me up previously impassable sections (which is also good). I would say that there was no difference in feel for the flat sections, but that there was an appreciable difference in feel on the steeper sections. While I was still standing and mashing, it definitely felt much less "stampy" than it did before. Rather than feeling like the bike got stuck when going up steep tech - like previously - it felt like I just needed more strength to pull it off. Those are all very good things. It is likely that I was able to sit and spin a little longer before having to stand. Overall, a solid first impression.
Thanks for the input.
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rosceaux
Well-Known Member
So I sold my geared geared Honzo DL and I'm full time on the SS when on the trails. Life is pretty good. The 32/20 combo has been working really well for me. My next newbie question is this:
While I used my cross bike for most of my road miles, I do like to tool around on the Mariachi. For funzies. The 32/20 is way too spinny on the roads. I just picked up an extra rear wheel, so I can go 34/18 or 36/16 maintaining the same chain length. Is 34/18 enough of a difference to warrant a wheel swap, or should I move to the 36/16? I have the cogs, but I don't have two extra chainrings around to try them out.
I know there was a similar discussion in another thread, but I am not painting this bike red and I am in an N=2 holding pattern for infinity.
TIA
While I used my cross bike for most of my road miles, I do like to tool around on the Mariachi. For funzies. The 32/20 is way too spinny on the roads. I just picked up an extra rear wheel, so I can go 34/18 or 36/16 maintaining the same chain length. Is 34/18 enough of a difference to warrant a wheel swap, or should I move to the 36/16? I have the cogs, but I don't have two extra chainrings around to try them out.
I know there was a similar discussion in another thread, but I am not painting this bike red and I am in an N=2 holding pattern for infinity.
TIA
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
First of all, light blue is the new red...j/k.
Swapping the cog is pretty easy, probably faster than swapping the front cog (unless your OneUp is a switch), why did you feel you would be better off with a spare wheel.
rosceaux
Well-Known Member
Ha! Almost mentioned the dingle dangle in my original post. I guess that's where a fraction of my newbie-ness comes in. Wouldn't that require a new crank? +? I've looked at the Surly website when you showed your dingle set up a few weeks ago, but I can't make sense of what I would need to do. I have a SS specific crankset. Is that a limiting factor?
Also, I see that the dingle is set up in three configurations. I was hoping to keep the 32/20, but then I would have to find a 35t front cog, correct? This is the stuff that scrambles my brain...
Whether I have the setup on one wheel or two, I like to have a backup wheel just in case, so no harm no foul there. Even if switching to a dingle I'd still like to have a spare ready to go.
rosceaux
Well-Known Member
Negligible chainline issues?
Steve Vai
Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
It's +/- 3mm either way. Current narrow-wide rings work up to 50mm in either direction. (Think how wide an Eagle cassette is)
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
Lol, you just happened to buy ‘my back up’ wheel! Not sure how I didn’t see it but I would have snatched it from under your nose had I seen it first! I’m the same way, just moar, as my hoarder styled garage can attest to!