Shifting Dilemma

Bikeworks

Bikeworks

Well-Known Member
Ok, so I'm at a loss. I'm in the process of converting my flat bar hybrid/gravel bike to a drop bar. Previously it was a mash up of 11s/12s MTB components. I now have all 12s GRX stuff, save for an XT cassette out back (10-51), and a GRX compatible WT chain ring (42t), and that gearing is supposedly okay from what I've read.

Issue I'm having is I can't make use of all 12s. I can get all but the lowest gear, albeit with a bit of slop. Not too concerned about the slop (yet) as I can't use the whole cassette. That said, I have tried to re-index a few times. The limit screws are good, as is the B-screw. I though maybe it was a bad hanger, so I adjusted it. Then I tried a new one. Both the hangers were fine. Cables and housing are all new, too. Took the cassette off, looks to be ok. Shifter goes up and down through all clicks with the wheel off, so that seems okay as well. I'm going to try routing a new cable and see if that does the trick, but not until day after next most likely. Probably will experiment with a double quick link (in the stand) on the chance that I cut it too short.

I'm pretty confident in doing my own work, but I feel I am missing something silly.
 
Bikeworks said:
Ok, so I'm at a loss. I'm in the process of converting my flat bar hybrid/gravel bike to a drop bar. Previously it was a mash up of 11s/12s MTB components. I now have all 12s GRX stuff, save for an XT cassette out back (10-51), and a GRX compatible WT chain ring (42t), and that gearing is supposedly okay from what I've read.

Issue I'm having is I can't make use of all 12s. I can get all but the lowest gear, albeit with a bit of slop. Not too concerned about the slop (yet) as I can't use the whole cassette. That said, I have tried to re-index a few times. The limit screws are good, as is the B-screw. I though maybe it was a bad hanger, so I adjusted it. Then I tried a new one. Both the hangers were fine. Cables and housing are all new, too. Took the cassette off, looks to be ok. Shifter goes up and down through all clicks with the wheel off, so that seems okay as well. I'm going to try routing a new cable and see if that does the trick, but not until day after next most likely. Probably will experiment with a double quick link (in the stand) on the chance that I cut it too short.

I'm pretty confident in doing my own work, but I feel I am missing something silly.
Click to expand...
Cable tension too high to let it get into the lil cog?
 
Bikeworks said:
Ok, so I'm at a loss. I'm in the process of converting my flat bar hybrid/gravel bike to a drop bar. Previously it was a mash up of 11s/12s MTB components. I now have all 12s GRX stuff, save for an XT cassette out back (10-51), and a GRX compatible WT chain ring (42t), and that gearing is supposedly okay from what I've read.

Issue I'm having is I can't make use of all 12s. I can get all but the lowest gear, albeit with a bit of slop. Not too concerned about the slop (yet) as I can't use the whole cassette. That said, I have tried to re-index a few times. The limit screws are good, as is the B-screw. I though maybe it was a bad hanger, so I adjusted it. Then I tried a new one. Both the hangers were fine. Cables and housing are all new, too. Took the cassette off, looks to be ok. Shifter goes up and down through all clicks with the wheel off, so that seems okay as well. I'm going to try routing a new cable and see if that does the trick, but not until day after next most likely. Probably will experiment with a double quick link (in the stand) on the chance that I cut it too short.

I'm pretty confident in doing my own work, but I feel I am missing something silly.
Click to expand...

Cable flex?
Using metal ferrules?
 
Bikeworks said:
Ok, so I'm at a loss. I'm in the process of converting my flat bar hybrid/gravel bike to a drop bar. Previously it was a mash up of 11s/12s MTB components. I now have all 12s GRX stuff, save for an XT cassette out back (10-51), and a GRX compatible WT chain ring (42t), and that gearing is supposedly okay from what I've read.

Issue I'm having is I can't make use of all 12s. I can get all but the lowest gear, albeit with a bit of slop. Not too concerned about the slop (yet) as I can't use the whole cassette. That said, I have tried to re-index a few times. The limit screws are good, as is the B-screw. I though maybe it was a bad hanger, so I adjusted it. Then I tried a new one. Both the hangers were fine. Cables and housing are all new, too. Took the cassette off, looks to be ok. Shifter goes up and down through all clicks with the wheel off, so that seems okay as well. I'm going to try routing a new cable and see if that does the trick, but not until day after next most likely. Probably will experiment with a double quick link (in the stand) on the chance that I cut it too short.

I'm pretty confident in doing my own work, but I feel I am missing something silly.
Click to expand...
The GRX rear der comes in 2 cage lengths. Do you have the longer (sgs) version? If not, than this may be your issue. The shorter cage (GS) can only run a 45t cass :

1743581424934.png
 
Patrick said:
Not enough cable tension😃
Click to expand...
GSTim said:
Forget the cable, can you manually push the derailleur into the low gear? If so it's a cable issue, if not derailleur.
Click to expand...
Yup, that's what I'm thinking too, but if I go in that direction I lose the high gear. Hopefully a completely new cable helps as I may be passed the point of getting the one that's been repositioned multiple times to work

rlb said:
Does switching the clutch off make the shift possible?
Click to expand...
I've been doing this with the clutch off.

jdog said:
The GRX rear der comes in 2 cage lengths. Do you have the longer (sgs) version? If not, than this may be your issue. The shorter cage (GS) can only run a 45t cass :

View attachment 258269
Click to expand...
Yup, I have the SGS. If I can't get it to work I may just give up and got with a 45t

Thanks all!!! Hopefully I return with a (positive) update tomorrow
 
"Yup, that's what I'm thinking too, but if I go in that direction I lose the high gear. Hopefully a completely new cable helps as I may be passed the point of getting the one that's been repositioned multiple times to work"

Can you push it and get it go into the low (largest) gear? If so you just need to go to the smallest gear, set all of the cable slack adjusters to the minimum (all the way in), loosen the cable at the derailleur take out all the slack and re-tighten. Then adjust the tension to get it to go into the largest cog. New cable won't help this.
 
Bikeworks said:
Yup, that's what I'm thinking too, but if I go in that direction I lose the high gear. Hopefully a completely new cable helps as I may be passed the point of getting the one that's been repositioned multiple times to work


I've been doing this with the clutch off.


Yup, I have the SGS. If I can't get it to work I may just give up and got with a 45t

Thanks all!!! Hopefully I return with a (positive) update tomorrow
Click to expand...

Flexing jackets not cut square, the plastic ferrules. Contamination in the jackets. Dried lube. Lots of little things.

If you can get the top 11 or the bottom 11, the other is a just a flex away
 
Just thought of this, but did you adjust the B-screw with the SRAM tool? I know that the GX is pretty sensitive to the exact position of the derailleur.

Again, if you can push it there by hand, then it's a cable or shifter issue. I was always taught to adjust the limit screws with the cable disconnected.
 
GSTim said:
"Yup, that's what I'm thinking too, but if I go in that direction I lose the high gear. Hopefully a completely new cable helps as I may be passed the point of getting the one that's been repositioned multiple times to work"

Can you push it and get it go into the low (largest) gear? If so you just need to go to the smallest gear, set all of the cable slack adjusters to the minimum (all the way in), loosen the cable at the derailleur take out all the slack and re-tighten. Then adjust the tension to get it to go into the largest cog. New cable won't help this.
Click to expand...
I did this, but I let out half a turn (most of the internet says a quarter to full so I split the difference). I'll try it your way
Patrick said:
Flexing jackets not cut square, the plastic ferrules. Contamination in the jackets. Dried lube. Lots of little things.

If you can get the top 11 or the bottom 11, the other is a just a flex away
Click to expand...
Understood, thanks!
Steve Vai said:
A stupid one but might not hurt to check, make sure the cable is anchored to the correct side of the bolt on the RD.
Click to expand...
Yea, that's right unfortunately
GSTim said:
Just thought of this, but did you adjust the B-screw with the SRAM tool? I know that the GX is pretty sensitive to the exact position of the derailleur.

Again, if you can push it there by hand, then it's a cable or shifter issue. I was always taught to adjust the limit screws with the cable disconnected.
Click to expand...
No, but the B-screw seems right. I played with it a bit as well (1-2mm in each direction), but it's lined up where it's supposed to be
a.s. said:
Chainring.
Click to expand...
How so? Tooth count is supposed to be perfectly fine with GRX. It's brand new, and of good quality.

This did make me think of something though; chainline. Could that be in play here?
 
a.s. said:
Ask @Steve Vai. It’s always the chainring.

I kid. It’s a joke. Ignore me.
Click to expand...
That's only for creaking I thought 😄

Anyway, still not having any luck. B-screw is not allowing me to pull in the jockey wheel any closer due to it running out of thread, and on closer inspection (with the chain off), the high gear jockey wheel won't line up flush with the low gear no matter what I do with the limit screw. I'm thinking I got a defective/previously used derailleur and am going to return and replace.

Did the whole cable tension thing again, no good. I adjust enough to get to the 51, I lose the 10. And I develop slop in the high in getting even close to the 51.
 
Bikeworks said:
That's only for creaking I thought 😄

Anyway, still not having any luck. B-screw is not allowing me to pull in the jockey wheel any closer due to it running out of thread, and on closer inspection (with the chain off), the high gear jockey wheel won't line up flush with the low gear no matter what I do with the limit screw. I'm thinking I got a defective/previously used derailleur and am going to return and replace.

Did the whole cable tension thing again, no good. I adjust enough to get to the 51, I lose the 10. And I develop slop in the high in getting even close to the 51.
Click to expand...

Have you considered throwing it in the fucking garbage and buying a real groupset? 😉
 
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