Remove dork disc?

icebiker

JORBA: Morris Trails
JORBA.ORG
Traditionally, I’ve always removed the rear wheel spoke protector on my bikes to reduce the dork factor (can’t do much about the rider though). But with my new bike, first one I’ve had with a 1x drivetrain and honking 50t low gear (yep, I’ve been in the front derailleur dark ages for too long) I’m not sure. I haven’t overshifted in the first 5 rides on it, and the angle of the 50t to the front ring doesn’t seem to lend itself to over shifting (unlike a 36t X 22 front ring, which would have a straighter chain line) so I think it’d be ok. Any advice appreciated. Bike is a 2020 Trek Fuel EX. Thanks
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Probably never need it, but good luck getting the chain out of there on the trail if it does overshift.

I don't have any on my bikes, but I am painfully aware of the state of the shifting/if I lay the bike down/hit anything...that is when bad things happen.
 

one piece crank

Well-Known Member
They can save your wheel if your derailleur takes a hit. I have cut them down below the largest cog so they still prevent the chain from wedging down deep. The ones that attach to the spokes might survive one unexpected use.

I just replaced 8 drive spokes on a used wheel set, and I routinely check my derailleur adjustment and limit screws.
 

bergsnj

Well-Known Member
take that thing off. there is a reason why derailleurs have a stop on the high and low side. you should be able to mash on the shifter in the lowest gear and not "over-shift". The screw will stop it from moving too far.
 

JimN

Captain Wildcat
Team MTBNJ Halter's
take that thing off. there is a reason why derailleurs have a stop on the high and low side. you should be able to mash on the shifter in the lowest gear and not "over-shift". The screw will stop it from moving too far.

This is true, assuming you ride trails with no rocks or sticks and your derailleur hanger stays perfectly straight.
 

icebiker

JORBA: Morris Trails
JORBA.ORG
Yep. I’ve had over shift on my other bikes from time to time but I figured it’s easier to do on a 3x or 2x since when it happens it’s usually in the granny ring, which is generally along a straight-ish chain line with the largest rear cog, and therefore little lateral tension on the chain. In contrast, with a 1X the chainring is essentially like a middle ring and therefore when in the 50T cog the chain is bent, therein creating lateral tension (chain wants to straighten out, the direction of which is down the cog set, not up it). I figured this tension would make overshifting in a 1x 50t setup less likely than a standard granny x 36t. I guess the bottom line question is, for those who are running 1x 50t setups, how often if at all have you experienced overshift?
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Yep. I’ve had over shift on my other bikes from time to time but I figured it’s easier to do on a 3x or 2x since when it happens it’s usually in the granny ring, which is generally along a straight-ish chain line with the largest rear cog, and therefore little lateral tension on the chain. In contrast, with a 1X the chainring is essentially like a middle ring and therefore when in the 50T cog the chain is bent, therein creating lateral tension (chain wants to straighten out, the direction of which is down the cog set, not up it). I figured this tension would make overshifting in a 1x 50t setup less likely than a standard granny x 36t. I guess the bottom line question is, for those who are running 1x 50t setups, how often if at all have you experienced overshift?

Assuming proper setup, only if the derailleur hanger/derailleur itself is damaged. Both are cases where the rider should say to themselves, "I hit something hard, and my shifting isn't working right. I ought to check and make sure that I can safely shift to the largest/smallest sprockets." At least half of the bikes I lay hands on have a bent derailleur hanger, and the only thing saving the derailleur is that the person never shifts it, anyway.

In short, simple words, if the derailleur's limit screws are set correctly, it is user error.

I should point out, that under extenuating circumstances, Di2 derailleurs can actually send the chain over either end of the cassette, since proper setup allows the derailleur to move ~0.5mm past the normal resting point of the chain (the derailleur momentarily over shifts the largest/smallest sprocket to complete the shift as resolutely as possible. You can see it yourself!). You would pretty much have to be shifting the derailleur into the smallest/largest cassette sprocket at the same time that you hit a good enough bump to cause the derailleur to bounce
 

phillychris498

Well-Known Member
This is true,assuming you ride trails with no rocks or sticks and your derailleur hanger stays perfectly straight.
Just like all the “trails” we ride in north jersey. Not a single rock. My derailleur doesn’t have a scratch on it.

Sarcasm aside, I have always take the dork disc off. When I was just starting out mountain biking, I took a cheap plastic one off by cutting it with a pair of cheap scissors. Both the dork disc and the scissors broke.
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
i have no dork disk on any of my bikes (both mountain bikes are eagle). . . .
 

mwlikesbikes

Well-Known Member
Sarcasm aside, I have always take the dork disc off. When I was just starting out mountain biking, I took a cheap plastic one off by cutting it with a pair of cheap scissors. Both the dork disc and the scissors broke.
I did the same thing back then but I used diagonal cutters and a utility knife. Pretty sure I cut my finger open doing it...
 

johnbryanpeters

Well-Known Member
I used to drive mechanics crazy by insisting that they remain. Eventually, manufacturers stopped providing them. Removal seemed to me to have been be based on bro boys' focus on style rather than function.
 

w_b

Well-Known Member
I have an old DH bike that came with a gold ano DD. It’s beautiful. I still have it somewhere (and the bike too.) They have been separated since shortly after purchase.
 

tonyride

Don't piss off the red guy
I'd rather be a "dork" climbing my bike up a hill than a "hip" dude on the side of the trail trying to pull the chain out from between the spokes and the cassette. If your bike already has it then just keep it on. Remove it only if and when it starts to break up or it gets loose. Some people care too much about "image" than function. FYI, one of the guys I ride with that didn't have a disc had chain suck so bad that we had to break the chain up into pieces just so he can at least coast and push his bike back to the lot while we kept riding. There's absolutely nothing we could have done for him since the only way to free that chain was to remove the cassette and who rides around with a cassette removal tool, a ratchet for that tool, and a chain whip in their pack? He was lucky one of us had a chain tool so we could break up the chain or else he would have to carry his bike out.
 
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gpTron

Well-Known Member
The dd on my Roscoe 8 had to be removed because it came loose and shifting around and I couldn't get it to stay. The one on my Scout i've left on. I hear they don't actually work anyway but I don't really care about being dorky or hip so I'll only remove it if it gets loose too.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I want to flip the table on this one...none of my wheel sets came with a dork disc, should I install it on each one of them and if so where do I buy some?
 
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