Presta tubes on schrader rims???
- Thread starter yetiman
- Start date
You can use something like this:
http://www.google.com/products?clie...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CB0QrQQwAg
I think doing it w/o some kind of adapter is a bad idea since the tube might squeeze through the space by the valve and do bad things. Having said that, I've done it once in a pinch and road a couple miles.
http://www.google.com/products?clie...esult_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CB0QrQQwAg
I think doing it w/o some kind of adapter is a bad idea since the tube might squeeze through the space by the valve and do bad things. Having said that, I've done it once in a pinch and road a couple miles.
im doing it, and have been for a while now, no problems yet and iv got 150+ miles on the setup this way but the adapter is definetly not a bad idea
ArmyOfNone
Well-Known Member
No need to worry rims are not valve specific. Schrader valves are for motor vehicles. Not your bicycle. Stick with presta valves.
one piece crank
Well-Known Member
I've got five bikes running presta, five bikes running schrader. One of them has had presta tubes in schrader rims for several years with zero problems.
My old school road bike, and fat chance will stay presta. But all new (Mtn) wheels I build are/will be schrader - much more reliable and field serviceable than presta...
Tom P.
My old school road bike, and fat chance will stay presta. But all new (Mtn) wheels I build are/will be schrader - much more reliable and field serviceable than presta...
Tom P.
goodvibe
Well-Known Member
I agree with Soundz, if you are going to run the presta valves on the Schrader rim, make sure you use these adapters. They come in metal or plastic and will keep your tubes from popping.
Slowbutsteady
New Member
I've had multiple flats using presta valves in schraeder rims, tore tube at base of valve stem, while commuting to work. FIgured out a cheap, easy fix. The plastic tube for faucet connections ($1.50 at Lowes) are very close to correct size. File one down to correct fit in schraeder hole, drill center larger using 1/4" drill bit, then cut to length. You can probably make about 30 of them from one pipe packet. The pipe works very easily, and the insert has a better fit than I've ever seen on a presta rim. COlor is grey and the insert is almost invisible. Takes only a little longer to do than typing up this description.
Get out and ride, frozen trails are great fun.
Get out and ride, frozen trails are great fun.
one piece crank
Well-Known Member
Slowbutsteady
New Member
Good point Tom. Can't say for sure if I was or not, likely not, as commuting in Jersey involves running over a lot of glass and riding in bad weather, not to mention darkness. Wrestling with those little nuts in 10 degree weather or in one of those rather nasty neighborhoods encourages one to be prepared for very quick tube changes.
Thanks for pointing out this detail to the other readers.
Rich G
Thanks for pointing out this detail to the other readers.
Rich G
one piece crank
Well-Known Member
I know it's a tricky subject, but I never use the presta nuts. They fix the valve stem the the rim and do not allow the tube/tire to shift when you flat. The only time I ever tore a tube (at the valve stem) was when using a presta nut. I've thrown them away for the past 20 years...
Tom P.
Tom P.
don
Well-Known Member
Can anyone give me a list as to why Presta is that much better than Schrader valves for mtn bikes? On every bike save for my road bike I have Shrader and love it for the convenience. There is a Shrader/auto nozzle in my garage and I can get the tire pumped up quick. If I'm someplace without a pump I can just go to the local gas station for air and not worry about carrying an adapter.
Slowbutsteady
New Member
One Piece Crank,
I'm glad to find someone else who tosses their presta nuts, you reminded me of when I started mountain biking and tightened the nuts way down - got three flats in short order until a wiser rider suggested omitting the nut. Guess I've been subliminally doing so ever since. Any idea why the tube manufacturers even include them with their tubes? Maybe, it's a step up from planned obsolescence - planned self demolition. Seems odd to me. Thanks for your responses.
Rich G
I'm glad to find someone else who tosses their presta nuts, you reminded me of when I started mountain biking and tightened the nuts way down - got three flats in short order until a wiser rider suggested omitting the nut. Guess I've been subliminally doing so ever since. Any idea why the tube manufacturers even include them with their tubes? Maybe, it's a step up from planned obsolescence - planned self demolition. Seems odd to me. Thanks for your responses.
Rich G
anrothar
entirely thrilled
I prefer schrader as well. I've had several of the nubs on presta valves break off in my many years, and don't recall ever having a valve malfunction with schrader. They're simple and durable. All you need to do is remove the valve cap to pump them up. Presta, you have to remove the valve cap, loosen the nub, then carefully attach the pump to avoid bending the nub.
Presta are more dainty, and as such, go better with shaved legs and matchy matchy ballerina outfits.
one piece crank
Well-Known Member
I've been using presta valves in schraeder rims for over 10 years without any problems. The only reason I buy presta tubes is because I've had some rims that are drilled for presta and some that are drilled for schraeder, and since the presta tubes will fit in the schraeder rims but not vice versa, buying presta means that I'm sure that I'm never stuck with a tube that doesn't fit. Of course I suppose I could've drilled out the odd rims to accept the schraeder valves, but that never occurred to me.
I agree with previous posters that tightening the nut down on presta valves will inevitably cause flatting. I do keep them though, but leave them loose on the valve. I find they're helpful if I'm working on a tube with a shorter valve on a deeper rim, since it makes it easier to attach the pump to the valve when I would otherwise end up pushing the valve into the rim with the pump head. Note that I do back the nut off after I'm done inflating the tube.
As for compatibility with gas station air pumps, what I'll often do is get one of those presta/schraeder adapters and just use that in lieu of a valve cap on one wheel. Sure, the o-ring in the adapter may degrade after a while, but I've left them on for over a year at a time, and they're cheap for the flexibility that they provide.
One advantage I've noticed with using presta valves is that it's easier to fully deflate a tube, which makes it easier to pack if you're doing a trailside repair, or to unseat a bead (I don't use tire levers) if you've got an uncooperative rim/tire combo.
All of the above may be a moot point for me in a day or two. I've taken to running low pressures in my tires for traction at the cost of getting a pinch flat every few rides. I'm going to try converting one set of wheels to tubeless and see where that takes me...
I agree with previous posters that tightening the nut down on presta valves will inevitably cause flatting. I do keep them though, but leave them loose on the valve. I find they're helpful if I'm working on a tube with a shorter valve on a deeper rim, since it makes it easier to attach the pump to the valve when I would otherwise end up pushing the valve into the rim with the pump head. Note that I do back the nut off after I'm done inflating the tube.
As for compatibility with gas station air pumps, what I'll often do is get one of those presta/schraeder adapters and just use that in lieu of a valve cap on one wheel. Sure, the o-ring in the adapter may degrade after a while, but I've left them on for over a year at a time, and they're cheap for the flexibility that they provide.
One advantage I've noticed with using presta valves is that it's easier to fully deflate a tube, which makes it easier to pack if you're doing a trailside repair, or to unseat a bead (I don't use tire levers) if you've got an uncooperative rim/tire combo.
All of the above may be a moot point for me in a day or two. I've taken to running low pressures in my tires for traction at the cost of getting a pinch flat every few rides. I'm going to try converting one set of wheels to tubeless and see where that takes me...
don
Well-Known Member
I prefer schrader as well. I've had several of the nubs on presta valves break off in my many years, and don't recall ever having a valve malfunction with schrader. They're simple and durable. All you need to do is remove the valve cap to pump them up. Presta, you have to remove the valve cap, loosen the nub, then carefully attach the pump to avoid bending the nub.
Presta are more dainty, and as such, go better with shaved legs and matchy matchy ballerina outfits.
I forgot all about the nubs breaking on a presta - yet another reason for Schrader.
I don't even run the valve caps on my Shrader tubes - just pop the nozzle on them and ready to add air.
As far as fully deflating a Shrader - and I agree it's easier with a Presta easier - but I just use a small allen key which I always have around if I'm working on my bike and it will help depress the valve that extra bit.
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