Possible to replace hub caps on this roval wheelset? 100mm spacing wheel doesn't fit into 100mm thru axle fork

phillychris498

phillychris498

Well-Known Member
Woe is me, after planning around this fork swap for a couple of months, involving buying a used Pike with 100 mm spacing, it appears as though my roval wheelset (which is 100mm spacing) does not fit into my rockshox pike, even though it is ALSO 100mm spacing. After some searching... I learned about rockshox torque caps, which are not compatible with my fork. Ugh. How can I figure out if my hubs on this wheelset could have the hubcaps swapped for spacing consistently with the fork that I have? Otherwise, I think the best course of action is to find a compatible wheelset and sell this wheelset.

Images of the non-compatible spacing for those curious:

bike spacing 1.jpg
bike spacing 2.jpg

1732569196900.png
 
At one point those caps were 2 pieces and would come apart to use in a non-Torque fork.
 
Isn't DT Swiss the manufacturer for Roval hubs? Would the correct DT Swiss caps work? I maybe thinking of a different rebranded hub though...
 
serviceguy said:
Isn't DT Swiss the manufacturer for Roval hubs? Would the correct DT Swiss caps work? I maybe thinking of a different rebranded hub though...
Click to expand...

Sort of. The old Roval stuff was DT but no DT stuff worked on it, because that would be too easy. Now at least the Roval wheels come with actual DT hubs.
 
Karate Monkey

Post in thread 'Sherline 1000 Hobbyist Lathe (3x8ish Inches)'

These machines are made for work between wood and soft metal (brass/aluminum). The design of the milling machines allows more leeway for material.

They can cut steel, but it has to be mild/else you need to take extremely light passes due to the size of the tooling/posts. There are some aftermarket QR tool posts that have acceptable stiffness with a 3/8 tool with short extension to make 002-003 passes on steel. Carbide tooling helps, but you can't fix the flexing due to the size of the mounting points.

They're great machines for 1) modifying parts (here, things like screws/end caps)...
  • Like

Just need to turn them down to the right diameter.
 
phillychris498 said:
brutal. Those hub caps do have a serial number that I’ll look up later, but what I really need is the serial number for the correct spacing caps. These look like they might do the trick but it’s really hard to say. https://www.performancebike.com/specialized-front-end-cap-set-thru-axle-15-x-100mm-s175900002/p756723?msclkid=7e8d0cdd66af1b56cafd6b9866469597&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PB - Shopping PLA - All Inventory - All Device - (25-100) Non-Branded - TROAS&utm_term=4584757337133153&utm_content=specialized
Click to expand...
I was looking in to doing the opposite with a boost front wheel a couple of years ago (ie I had 19mm endcaps but wanted torque cap endcaps instead to use on a Pike). I emailed Roval at support@rovalcomponents.com with details of my hub and the serial number on the endcaps and they replied in a couple of days with the serial #'s of the torque cap endcaps that I would need. In my case the 19mm ones were S125900006 & the torque cap ones were S165900016 and S165900017, but this was boost.
 
snashters said:
I was looking in to doing the opposite with a boost front wheel a couple of years ago (ie I had 19mm endcaps but wanted torque cap endcaps instead to use on a Pike). I emailed Roval at support@rovalcomponents.com with details of my hub and the serial number on the endcaps and they replied in a couple of days with the serial #'s of the torque cap endcaps that I would need. In my case the 19mm ones were S125900006 & the torque cap ones were S165900016 and S165900017, but this was boost.
Click to expand...
Impressive. They usually have no clue.
 
Santapez said:
Karate Monkey

Post in thread 'Sherline 1000 Hobbyist Lathe (3x8ish Inches)'

These machines are made for work between wood and soft metal (brass/aluminum). The design of the milling machines allows more leeway for material.

They can cut steel, but it has to be mild/else you need to take extremely light passes due to the size of the tooling/posts. There are some aftermarket QR tool posts that have acceptable stiffness with a 3/8 tool with short extension to make 002-003 passes on steel. Carbide tooling helps, but you can't fix the flexing due to the size of the mounting points.

They're great machines for 1) modifying parts (here, things like screws/end caps)...
  • Like

Just need to turn them down to the right diameter.
Click to expand...
hah.

Yes, I've actually used this to turn down trainer endcaps (135 to 130, because who the hell is putting QR135 on a trainer?)
 
I have those hubs as well. They came off a 2009 S Works Stumpjumper. I checked to see what endcaps I have and they are QR.
 
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