Grease on bolt threads? Little bit of grease on the bolt head? Using a torque wrench?
Just curious, where on the clock do you have the EBB setup, looking from the drive side?
I've noticed I need to re-tension more often running gearing at 32x18 than 32x20
Thank you @1speed! I'm not sure why using blue Loctite on the bolts would make a difference since I don't think the problem is that the bolts get loose (I actually have to loose them up to be able to re-tighten the chain). I'll give it a try it though.
BTW, good thing I read your post twice. I was just about going to remove the BB and put blue Loctite all around the contact surface with the BB shell
So are you saying that you lose tension even though the bolts are not coming loose? If that's the case, then I imagine your only option would be to replace it, because that would mean the housing itself is warped enough to be moving even under correct (or greater) load. If both sides are as tight as they should be, it ought to be impossible for the BB to rotate. So if that's happening, it has to be warped beyond fixing. The blue Loctite works to keep the bolts in place assuming they will hold the housing in place. If they can't hold the housing in place, then the housing is probably beyond saving. My shop guy told me that just about everything comes with a torque recommendation and the reality is that many of those aren't 100% necessary, but he said in the case of a Niner EBB, it's absolutely necessary to use the torque specs because the housing itself will warp under extra load almost every time. This is especially a problem on the Carbon frames because even if it's not entirely warped, it stats to make that horrible squeak and you'll never get rid of that. But it's still an issue for the other materials as well.
Thank you. It looks good. I might give this a try.I'm a big fan of the Bushnell EBB. The Cannodale EBB that was on my 1FG was the absolute worst! On the Bushnell, you just have to make sure that the little wedges are evenly spaced from the center. The Niner Biocentric clamps axially across the bottom bracket shell which may be a necessary thing for carbon bikes (I don't know, ask @jdog or @jimvreeland or someone else with the wrench skills). The Bushnell expands outward applies force radially (and more evenly and across a greater surface area).
GOOD!
BAD!!! (Old Cannondale design)
New bike. EBBs are junk.can you tighten these too much? Mine was slipping constantly this weekend at Allaire. Slipped so much that it would take a few revolutions before the EBB rotated all the way around and caught again. I didn't have a 12Nm torque wrench but one is on order.
Thanks, that was helpfulNew bike. EBBs are junk.
When looking at the drive-side or non-drive side? I always ran mine at btw 5:00 and 6:00 on drive-side.about 11:00
I used to clean mine with acetone(no grease or lube at all). It didn’t slip once when torqued to spec and run as ssI'm tired of this BB slipping. I've tried with paste/ without, cleaned it really well, and it still slips a bit. Are there alternatives to replace this EBB with another EBB?
lemme check when I get home, don't want to misinform youWhen looking at the drive-side or non-drive side? I always ran mine at btw 5:00 and 6:00 on drive-side.
going to break it down in the coming weeks, it could use a good cleaning as recommendedI used to clean mine with acetone(no grease or lube at all). It didn’t slip once when torqued to spec and run as ss
Daaaaaamn. You all fancy now and still fiddling with an EBB!?