Needed - Long 30.9 Ream

syadasti

Wet Rag
I have a MTB frame I built up and its only reamed about 220-250mm deep - there is a small bit of weld (1/16-1/20 thick") that is blocking the seat going any lower and the manufacturer's ream was too short to get it (all frames have the issue). I'd like the ability to lower my seatpost more without cutting it.

Anyone have a 30.9mm ream that can go at least 10" deep? The last time I needed a seat tube reamed years ago none of the shops around had a ream. It was not a huge issue as it was just for burrs that were scratching a seatpost, not a weld which probably needs something more than sanding attachment on a drill cable attachment (the fix for the burrs).
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
Hmm... don't have a ream... but maybe a brake cylinder hone w/ a drilling extension could work? Would have to go slow, of course... :hmmm:

Another option... buy a cheap - preferably steel - 30.9 seat post and cut teeth into the end with a Dremel (so kinda looks like a hole saw). Then insert the post and spin it until you cut through the weld. IF the post is steel and the frame is aluminum, it shouldn't take long.
 
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syadasti

Wet Rag
The seatpost idea sounds good but it would take a while as you'd have to make small teeth to make it effective (like a hacksaw blade) and it would have to be reasonably hard steel too? Know any cheap steel seatposts in that size - I would guess they would be either cromo or hi tensile?

I'm just looking for a shop (preferably) or person that happens to have a ream/hone so I can bring it by.
 

mwlikesbikes

Well-Known Member
Curious as to why there is a weld blocking the seat tube. Is it a std diamond frame or an interupted seat tube? What is the frame made of? 220 mm is pretty deep. You don't want to compromise the integrity of the frame.
 

syadasti

Wet Rag
Its a Std diamond FS. Turner. They changed to 30.9mm this year and I was told they don't have a tool that can reach that low.
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
The seatpost idea sounds good but it would take a while as you'd have to make small teeth to make it effective (like a hacksaw blade) and it would have to be reasonably hard steel too? Know any cheap steel seatposts in that size - I would guess they would be either cromo or hi tensile?

Hmm... no, I don't think so... even cheap steel is going to be much harder than any aluminum used on a bike...

Yes, cutting the teeth will take a few minutes... but making the tool will probably take longer than actually using it (BTDT).

I've spent the last 6+ years doing DIY work/mods on modern & classc cars... often this work requires specialized tools... sometimes I buy them... but if the tool is simple enough, I'll make it. Sometimes out of frugalness... sometimes out of necessity (can't wait for the tool and it's not something you'll find at Sears or Pep Boys).

That said, I agree with just running two posts... That's what I do with my Yeti that has a bend in the seat tube that limits height adjustment. One post for XC... and a shorter post for lift-serve riding...
 

syadasti

Wet Rag
My friend who is an automotive engineer said a flap on an attachment would be his first choice or maybe a cartridge roller but he also said just cut it and I already had a seatpost that I cut a little a few years ago so I cut it down an inch shorter last night.

I think I have enough of a range 4-8" exposed to work with most situations so I'll only need one.
 
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Ian F

Well-Known Member
My friend who is an automotive engineer said a flap on an attachment would be his first choice

(understanding the discussion is hypothetical now... :hmmm: )

Hmm... I'd be concerned about it cutting/wearing unevenly. Just want to cut the offending weld... but leaving the rest of the tube untouched. Anything that spins quickly inside the tube will wear through the inside diameter while wearing down the weld. This was my thinking behind the "seat post cutter idea": it would cut the weld and only the weld.
 

don

Well-Known Member
Syadasti-

First of all I'm surprised Turner let a frame go out without being reamed all the way down.

But if you want to try the steel seatpost method let me know. I have a angle grinder that will make short work out of putting teeth in it. I am also curious as how that method would work.
 

syadasti

Wet Rag
Syadasti-

First of all I'm surprised Turner let a frame go out without being reamed all the way down.

But if you want to try the steel seatpost method let me know. I have a angle grinder that will make short work out of putting teeth in it. I am also curious as how that method would work.

Yeah we should definitely try it. All Turners are like that since they've made the change DWL/30.9. Turner's ream/hone does not go any deeper. They should pay/tell SAPA to prep it for them since they are charging so much more for frames now...
 
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mwlikesbikes

Well-Known Member
It's a new frame I assume. I'd be a little wary of voiding the warranty by cutting the weld. you might be better of leaving it as is and dealing with the 2 seatposts.
 
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