Is this I9 hub failing?

[shrpshtr325]

When I went with new wheel build I went with the 36T because I read up on both. They said you want less engagement on a MTB for reliability. on a road bike go with the
56T. It made sense to me and I have about 3500 miles on the hubs.

that recommendation seems backwards to me, on a road bike you are constantly pedaling so wtf cares how long it takes to engage, your not letting it disengage all that frequently, on a mtb the increased engagement allows for better control ratcheting over obstacles.

 

[Steve Vai]

that recommendation seems backwards to me, on a road bike you are constantly pedaling so wtf cares how long it takes to engage, your not letting it disengage all that frequently, on a mtb the increased engagement allows for better control ratcheting over obstacles.

This. I run the 16 for road because it's quiet and makes zero difference.

 

[Steve Vai]

From my Trials days I used to be hung up on POE. These days it's all about body control and the roll…

My ECHO 109 freewheel is like 15 years old and is still awesome. Wonder how no one has translated that tech into a Freehub System yet?

 

[Karate Monkey]

From my Trials days I used to be hung up on POE. These days it's all about body control and the roll…

I'll lend you my Morrow that has something like 60 degrees before engagement...and you have to 'chase' it when it's rolling.

You won't have to worry about ever feeling "under-gunned" again.

 

[Santapez]

My ECHO 109 freewheel is like 15 years old and is still awesome. Wonder how no one has translated that tech into a Freehub System yet?

Isn't it basically because it's huge compared to a modern hub/freewheel arrangement?

I had both an Echo and a Monty, very reliable, but not lightweight. Maybe lighter than an Onyx hub though...

I never felt the need on a mountain bike that I wanted more engagement when running those. In fact when I had the chain too tight I'd find times where I'd slightly pause and then my feet weren't in the best position and it was a ton of torque to move the crank.

 

[Steve Vai]

Isn't it basically because it's huge compared to a modern hub/freewheel arrangement?

I had both an Echo and a Monty, very reliable, but not lightweight. Maybe lighter than an Onyx hub though...

I never felt the need on a mountain bike that I wanted more engagement when running those. In fact when I had the chain too tight I'd find times where I'd slightly pause and then my feet weren't in the best position and it was a ton of torque to move the crank.

It’s smaller than an I9 ring drive. I run a 16t FF setup.

 

[Santapez]

It’s smaller than an I9 ring drive. I run a 16t FF setup.

View attachment 227364

Ugh, and Paul makes a boost spaced WORD hub. Why are you making me spend my money in weird ways?

 

[Steve Vai]

Ugh, and Paul makes a boost spaced WORD hub. Why are you making me spend my money in weird ways?

Literally my job.

 

[stb222]

i didnt realize this thread would bring people who prefer low engagement hubs

 

[Steve Vai]

i didnt realize this thread would bring people who prefer low engagement hubs

Some of us used to ride free coaster hubs so 16t seems like a million POE.

 

[one piece crank]

I'll lend you my Morrow that has something like 60 degrees before engagement...and you have to 'chase' it when it's rolling.

I ride Suntour and Bendix coaster brakes every week. The Bendix is tight at 20 degrees.

I had both an Echo and a Monty, very reliable, but not lightweight. Maybe lighter than an Onyx hub though...

I’m a big guy and everything Monty folded beneath me. Except the 19” rear rim.

It’s smaller than an I9 ring drive. I run a 16t FF setup.

Never owned a FF setup. BITD I rode Suntour BMX FW’s. Later I switched to White Trials.

 

[rick81721]

What I know about the hubs/teeth on my bikes

 

[John the Plumber]

that recommendation seems backwards to me, on a road bike you are constantly pedaling so wtf cares how long it takes to engage, your not letting it disengage all that frequently, on a mtb the increased engagement allows for better control ratcheting over obstacles.

When your in a pace line you are pedaling at a slower cadence or drafting and not pedaling when all of a sudden the pace line accelerates you need the increased engagement is needed. I could be wrong but it seems to work. On the MTB I put the lower engagement for reliability..... At 66 I am not to fast......

 

[Teutonic]

I see some mentions of the DT240EXP having failures too, but most of what I've read elsewhere is that that was an early out of spec batch (~2020-2021). Are the DT350 and DT240EXP now considered reliable? Is going to the 54T not recommended for either? I've had a few friends have i9 failures so I was leaning towards the DTs.

 

[one piece crank]

The return of colder weather has thickened up the Phil Tenacious Oil, and my i9 hub is now silent again.