He said it's a bit high. But not cause for concern. It's the city pressure,. I'm not running a regulator in my water line.
Hot water heater relief valve
- Thread starter rlb
- Start date
without running a regulator (street->whole house) it is whatever the city makes it at any moment.
could be higher at night when they fill up the tank at the top of the hill! (???)
did you open the valve to flush it? might have some crud stuck in there?
anyway - i'm sure they'll figure it out.
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and here i was thinking it was the valve on his brand new tankless unit . . . .
It is. 😂
The saga continues. :-(
@Santapez was right.
Water pressure spikes to over 150psi whenever the water is shut off. Having a PRV installed next week. Will hopefully keep pressure below 100 at all times.
I'm sure this problem started after the water main break on my street was repaired last Sunday.
Although my pipes in the house have been knocking for years.
@Santapez was right.
Water pressure spikes to over 150psi whenever the water is shut off. Having a PRV installed next week. Will hopefully keep pressure below 100 at all times.
I'm sure this problem started after the water main break on my street was repaired last Sunday.
Although my pipes in the house have been knocking for years.
R = reducing for those playing at home.
Have them install a Water Hammer Arrester while they install the PRV. Should help with any banging from water hammer when devices are shutoff etc. And if you're having pipe cut/sweat it's the time to do it.
I still wonder if you should have an expansion tank...
I wonder the same. But what do I know.
Another $720 on Thursday. Also having the main shut off valve replaced with a ball valve. Since they have to shut the main at the street.
No tank on the on-demand systems. the only thing left heating the water is core in the unit, and it is already hot.
That cools quickly cause the exhaust fan keeps running after the water/burner are shut off.
in a std tank, street water at sub 60f is in a pressure vessel and increased to 120 (convert to degK for % increase)
and start pressure at whatever the PRV is set at (sub 80 i hope.)
I was actually thinking of it not for that purpose but for water hammer. Any shock goes back to that internal bladder and gets dampened.
iman29
Well-Known Member
Came here to recommend this. I had to find out the hard way that my old style water main valves were frozen when they came to install my dishwasher 2 years ago and BOTH handles broke off. One left the valve stuck halfway.
I guess this is what it's like having normal water pressure.
Weak showers FTW. 
Hot water heater has stopped dripping.
Weak showers FTW. 
Hot water heater has stopped dripping.
Is there a gauge? Just turn it up!
That bend around isn't helping either
It's fine. Just an adjustment
Tankless heater was working on and off for about a month. 3 service visit and a call to Navien. They determined flow sensor is faulty. Parts and wiring were ordered.
Heater box is cracked and has been leaking water in the control board. Never leaking in the floor. Had no idea.
Also I failed inspection.
There has to be a 1 inch dedicated gas line to the unit as per code.
There has to be a expansion tank as per code.
Screens on the intake and exhaust pipes out side.
no hot water since Sunday
2 days of repairs. Heater has never worked this good.
Heater box is cracked and has been leaking water in the control board. Never leaking in the floor. Had no idea.
Also I failed inspection.
There has to be a 1 inch dedicated gas line to the unit as per code.
There has to be a expansion tank as per code.
Screens on the intake and exhaust pipes out side.
no hot water since Sunday
2 days of repairs. Heater has never worked this good.
rlb
Well-Known Member
That's a bummer man did they get it all back up and running now? That's a long time to be taking cold showers. At least it's not February!
For the dedicated gas line, do they want to see a separate 1 inch line all the way from the street (not realistic) or a 1 inch line from the water heater to the service line coming into the basement)?
Is it wrong that if my furnace dies I want to replace it with another simple 80% efficiency unit, or if my water heater fails, another boring 40gallon tank version?
These complicated units seem to end up having a lot of hidden costs in the name of cost savings.
These complicated units seem to end up having a lot of hidden costs in the name of cost savings.
