Hitch question

Robin

Well-Known Member
I had a 1.25 hitch and Thule rack.

New car with new hitch. Only was 2”.

Got the adapter but the Thule knob expands in adapter not hitch and there is some play/wobble.

Suggestions??
 
I had a 1.25 hitch and Thule rack.

New car with new hitch. Only was 2”.

Got the adapter but the Thule knob expands in adapter not hitch and there is some play/wobble.

Suggestions??

the Thule adapter?

flip the adapter over to the other corner? (i'm sure you would have figured this out)

looks like this
 
I have the thule adapter and it has the tiniest bit of play and the rack moves side to side. This fixes that
1733077796536.jpeg

 
The play will be in the adapter, not the rack part. I had this setup on my Camaro and it drove me crazy enough to just buy a new rack.
 
use an anti-rattle plate/bolt between your hitch and adaptor. Like this

1733085650661.png


I have an extender from my hitch so that my bikes don't hit my spare tire mounted on the rear of the vehicle. It did the same thing until I installed the above. Drove me nuts. You can get ones that fit both 1 1/4 and 2" transition adaptors.

This one fits the 1 1/4 to 2" transition because it has a larger flange.

 
use an anti-rattle plate/bolt between your hitch and adaptor. Like this

View attachment 251754

I have an extender from my hitch so that my bikes don't hit my spare tire mounted on the rear of the vehicle. It did the same thing until I installed the above. Drove me nuts. You can get ones that fit both 1 1/4 and 2" transition adaptors.

This one fits the 1 1/4 to 2" transition because it has a larger flange.


I bought the above item for my Cargo rack/ramp (not bike rack) as I have a need to sometimes haul stuff around. Even though the cargo rack is also 2" there was too much play in it for my liking especially when carrying a load (i.e. snowblower). This plate adapter works awesome and gives the added bit of security that it will take more than just pulling the receiver pin out to try and steal the rack.

For the original problem, I can at least say that my 2" hitch and my 2" Thule XTR Pro2 once installed does not really rattle around at all; supporting @jdog commentary above.
 
So I bought a new to me 1UP quickrack with the 1 1/2" and 2" compatible hitchbar. Obviously, I now feel like I want the 2" hitch bar because I can use a standard lock with it. Problem is, the 2" hitch bar only works with the heavy duty so instead of $102 I would have to shell $140 for the unit including the side plates...is is worth the expense or should I just leave it alone as it is? Funny part is if I do that I would end up having paid exactly the same as a new unit (minus shipping) plus a spare hitch bar...
 
So I bought a new to me 1UP quickrack with the 1 1/2" and 2" compatible hitchbar. Obviously, I now feel like I want the 2" hitch bar because I can use a standard lock with it. Problem is, the 2" hitch bar only works with the heavy duty so instead of $102 I would have to shell $140 for the unit including the side plates...is is worth the expense or should I just leave it alone as it is? Funny part is if I do that I would end up having paid exactly the same as a new unit (minus shipping) plus a spare hitch bar...

I just did this for the eBike. sold the 1-1/2 draw bar and plate on eBay for $70 if that helps...
It does seem more stable with the extra weight of the eBike - never had a problem with the others.
 
I just did this for the eBike. sold the 1-1/2 draw bar and plate on eBay for $70 if that helps...
It does seem more stable with the extra weight of the eBike - never had a problem with the others.
I didn’t think about selling anything because…I never do. Thinking about it that would make it a heavy duty so there’s still some savings in buying it used…
 
I just did this for the eBike. sold the 1-1/2 draw bar and plate on eBay for $70 if that helps...
It does seem more stable with the extra weight of the eBike - never had a problem with the others.
Also, what lock did you use to block access to the security bolt? I believe I saw a picture of your truck with a straight bolt blocking access to the bolt…not that it would add much security to the whole thing, as there’s a number of point where loosening a couple of bolts would let you steal the bike and the rack easily using just a regular wrench…I guess it would deter a real simple bike thief, hopefully…
 
Also, what lock did you use to block access to the security bolt? I believe I saw a picture of your truck with a straight bolt blocking access to the bolt…not that it would add much security to the whole thing, as there’s a number of point where loosening a couple of bolts would let you steal the bike and the rack easily using just a regular wrench…I guess it would deter a real simple bike thief, hopefully…

Using the 1-1/4 I had the bolt blocking access to the security Allen nut as you mentioned.
It was secure, in that it was hard to cut because of position.

1733577733583.png


I then cable locked the bike to the safety chain attachment point on the tongue.

There is no difference with the HD - the fact that they let you use a locking draw bar pin doesn't change your point that the hitch can be disassembled in two minutes....
Then they just go on eBay and buy a new draw bar and plate...

1733577608011.png
 
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