Handlebars??

jdog

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I am building up a singlespeed 29er and I am wondering about handlebars.

I have been running a set of Easton xc Monkey lites on both my bikes for a while but on this new one I am thinking of playing with some of the bars with a higher sweep angle.

I won't be using a rise at all since the 29" wheel sets the front end a bit higher. I rode the same frame I am getting today with a riser and it felt too high.

I tried the Mary bars on the Haro Mary but I found them to be a bit awkward.

I am going to get some 7 ti bars custom bent to whatever angle I choose.

But what angle?? 8,9,10,11??


I was thinking about the new WTB dirtdrops for the hell of it but thet won't work with the new Magura Louise's that are on the way..



You can stray as far off this topic as you like...

Farts and cats are ok on my thread.
 
i've been using surly torsion bars for a while now and love them. not sure of the angle, but that'll take you all of two minutes to figure out. i like em with bar ends.

a straight bar of a given wall thickness and width(and material) will be stronger and lighter than a riser bar of the same wall thickness and width. use a 10 or 15 degree stem to make up the difference, or get a flat bar with a bunch of sweep. the bends in riser bars actually make them flexier, which for aluminum makes them weaker. so companies overbuild the hell out of them.

if you search hard enough, or contact magura, you should be able to find some of the now discontinued hs-11 levers, which were road-style levers for use with the hs-33 rim brakes. i don't know the diameter of the master cylinder on the disk brakes, but if it's similar to the diameter on the hs-33's(12.3 or 13 i forget), they should work, and enable you to use the dirt drops, should you really want to do that... you can use a slightly smaller diameter, which will increase the clamping force of the brakes, but decrease pad clearance. i have a set of Altek levers for one of my hs-33 sets what did just that.

yes, i used to be a member of rec.bike.tech or whatever it was(jeez was it that long ago that i don't even remember the correct name???)
 
I spoke to my buddy Jude at Magura about the old drop bar levers once and i think he said that the master cylinders pushed a very different amoumt of oil.

I think the rim brakes move a lot more so they must require more fluid.


I surly is a 15 sweep which is a bit much for my taste.

I think i will try a 11.5 degree.

j
 
that would make alot of sense. duh. shame they don't make em with a smaller diameter cylinder, because it seems disks are making their way into the cyclocross world.
 
I think that the pros still are not allowed to run disks.

The UCI wants cross bikes to somehow look like road bikes.

Somehow a $7000 Ridley carbon cross bike that can't stop if it is wet seems insane to me.
 
jdog said:
I think that the pros still are not allowed to run disks.

The UCI wants cross bikes to somehow look like road bikes.

Somehow a $7000 Ridley carbon cross bike that can't stop if it is wet seems insane to me.

Which part? The $7000 price tag or the not stopping? To me their about equal.
 
stopping.

Speaking of cross bikes, you guys need to see the Vintage Bontrager Coss bike that I am building for Chris G.

We were bidding against each other for it on e-bay and he won.

I am sure he will post a pic when it is done.

It is a one of a kind in orange.
 
We don't need no steenking brakes

jdog said:
I think that the pros still are not allowed to run disks.

The UCI wants cross bikes to somehow look like road bikes.

Somehow a $7000 Ridley carbon cross bike that can't stop if it is wet seems insane to me.
If you read some of the brake-related threads on the CX forums, you'll see a lot of talk about how all the Eurodog CXers run Froglegs and other "wide-throw" cantis for mud clearance and aren't too concerned with ultimate stopping power. "Grabby" brakes come in for a lot of flak with that crowd. So the non-stopping Ridley is on purpose, they'd have you believe.

Personally, I like brakes that work.
 
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