Handlebar height

What is the advantage of dropping the height on the handlebars other than making your bike more uncomfortable to ride?
right now I'm about flushed with the seat height. I started racing this season and I was wondering if there's and actual advantage to dropping the bars more and if so what would be ideal.
 

wonderturtle

Well-Known Member
What is the advantage of dropping the height on the handlebars other than making your bike more uncomfortable to ride?
right now I'm about flushed with the seat height. I started racing this season and I was wondering if there's and actual advantage to dropping the bars more and if so what would be ideal.

looks cooler. I think that's the main reason.
 

soundz

The Hat
Team MTBNJ Halter's
It's not about being high or low. It's finding the sweet spot for yourself. Having it high does not necessarily equate to comfort. You probably won't be comfortable riding on trails with your bars at chopper height.
 

1speed

Incredibly profound yet fantastically flawed
I prefer my bars as low as I can get them. It's a climbing thing for me -- bars forward means my weight distribution and position are better for climbing. But bear in mind that I only ride SS, so most of the "real" climbing is out of the saddle. You can probably picture the difference on a steep incline -- my position brings me forward on an incline, which feels much more like I'm standing upright when the climb is steep. And on flatter sections, I am in a more aggressive position (think TT bike on the road.) This works for me, although there are definitely times when it'd be nicer to have a more relaxed, upright set-up. A few weeks ago, I rode about 20 miles of a ride on a flat cinder path. Spinning a SS on a flat for that long in that position really sucks. But overall, I'm happier with the low bar set-up. On the bike I built this winter, the front end is rigid and super low -- I cut an additional 2 inches off the steerer on the Niner fork compared to where I used to run it on my Misfit, slammed the headset, and I'm running a Niner RDO flat bar (710 - I'm too short for the 780!) completely uncut to push me down even lower. A friend of mine rode it once and said it's so low it doesn't feel stable, but I haven't had an issue with it. It takes some getting used to if I haven't ridden it in a while because I'm not quite as low on my Niner (mainly because it has a suspension fork), but after a mile or two, I settle back into it just fine.
 

a.s.

Mr. Chainring
There are so many variables. Many bikes these days have slacker head angles than in the past. Combine that with 29" wheels and you can easily have a bike with a front end that wanders uncontrollably on steep climbs. A low stack height, low stem and low (flat) bars help negate that. That's probably why you see so many flat bars these days.
 
ok so i guess i got to take a day to go out and play around with the settings on that then, and see that works for me. Yeah right now I got a 600mm flat bar. couldn't really get used to the 700mm i had prior.
 

icebiker

JORBA: Morris Trails
JORBA.ORG
I find comfort, particularly when you like long rides, is paramount. One can always shift one's position around dynamically to compensate when situations dictate. I prefer my h-bar height to be at, or slightly higher (maybe less than an inch) from the saddle's level position. Any higher and I find too much pressure on my sit bones. Any lower and I find more pressure on lower back and neck. It's true that when climbing, the front end can wander if your bars are too high. This is assuming you stay static on the saddle. However, when climbing steeper sections where front end wandering is likely, I scoot my butt to the nose of my saddle. This keeps power /traction on the rear wheel, while weighting the front wheel to prevent wandering. Works perfectly, plus works a different set of leg muscles.

One other note....whatever position you decide is best, keep in mind that for a hardtail you want to compensate for sag. So, if you decide you like your h-bars level with the saddle, and your fork has 1" sag when you're on the bike, then you might want to set your bars about 1" higher so that, when sagged, the bars are where you want them. For rigid (no sag) and full-sus (dual (and more or less equivalent) sag), you could leave them level to saddle. DH bikes are a different story, I have no experience with them animals. Good luck.
 

1speed

Incredibly profound yet fantastically flawed
ok so i guess i got to take a day to go out and play around with the settings on that then, and see that works for me. Yeah right now I got a 600mm flat bar. couldn't really get used to the 700mm i had prior.

600mm is so narrow! Wow. If you're used to that, I guess you're handling it fine, but I see a number like that and think of broken wrists or elbows. I know a few people who run bars pretty narrow, but I always want wider myself. I just can't ride narrow without feeling like my wrists are going to buckle.
 

jumpa

Well-Known Member
I recently just "slammed" my stem. Use to ride with 15mm of spacers underneath then raised my fork from 120 > 140 on travel. Helps the wheel wonder less on climbs for sure. I just make sure to drop the elbows and watch my weight distribution .

785 on the bars...gives me something to "row" on when I'm churning the ss up hills.
 

Ian F

Well-Known Member
For me a consistency thing. Over the years, I've tried to keep the BB to bar distance as close as posslbe between all of me bikes, from DH to road. I run everything about as low as possible, especially on my longer travel bikes like my Carbine (160mm fork) and 951 (203mm fork) with short stems (70 & 50 mm respectively). It helps for keeping weight forward on a slack-angle bike. Wider bars helps too - currently 780 on those bikes and slightly less on my hardtail, which runs a bit longer stem.
 
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