Fork Install

bucknejo

Well-Known Member
Is cutting and fitting a new fork something a novice home mechanic can achieve with success?

Tools
  • crown race setter
  • star nut setter
  • pipe cutter
  • YouTube
I called one shop and they said they wouldn’t do it as the bike brand I have isnt something they support. Something about liability.

Anyway, first time for everything right? Any pro tips before I get started? Measure twice, cut once.
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
100% can be done at home.

I'm not anti-pipe cutter on aluminum, but I would say the hack saw WITH GUIDE is cleaner. It doesn't crush when you go easy and just take a lot of spins.

Please use a real star nut setter tool (not expensive) as opposed to using the bolt from the headsets.
 

Fire Lord Jim

Well-Known Member
Cut the steerer too long. Races & headsets have a way of using up millimeters you thought you didn't need. You can always add spacers, or cut it a second time. A length of PVC pipe seats a crown race just like the Park tool. Post pics of the progress.
 

Magic

Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Stem as guide, hack saw. Doesn't have to be perfect as you can use a spacer above the cut. In most cases you'll need to anyway so the cap doesn't bottom out on the steerer. Little filing to clean up the sharp edges. PVC to set race as mentioned.
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Done it with pipe cutter and hack saw.
Hack saw was faster.

This. I will add: hacksaw is going to leave the top of the steerer slightly crooked. No way around it, even with a guide, unless you are using a reciprocating saw to cut with next-to-no pressure. The less used your saw guide is, the less problems you are going to have, but you are ultimately still cutting with a sawblade that is built to cut into hardened materials, and has kerf that makes the cutting surface farther away from the blade. It drifts a bit, but isn't a practical issue. Make sure you are applying slight pressure towards the main body of the fork to minimize the drifting.

Pipe cutter leaves a more perpendicular top, but will require you to file off a burr on the outside of the tube, unless you happen to have a REALLY expensive cutter (like a Knipex/Gedore) that allows lower pressure while still tracing a consistent path. Obviously, you can't use a pipe cutter for a carbon fiber steerer.

Star-fangled nuts can be installed without a setter, but the setter makes it a generous 95% impossible to screw up. Approximately center the nut, tap the first set of fangles in, and gently align by hitting the side of the setter. Knock in until it hits the steerer tube (sound changes!).

Crown races can be seated with PVC, as above, but be sure to make your tool carefully if the race has integrated seals (like some Cane Creek versions).
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Chuck the fork in a drill and spin it against a hack saw blade. Solves the drift and high shoulder problem.

i just made that up. Don’t do that.😅
Plasma cutter ftw
I was going to mention putting the fork in the vertical mill...

This. I will add: hacksaw is going to leave the top of the steerer slightly crooked. No way around it, even with a guide, unless you are using a reciprocating saw to cut with next-to-no pressure. The less used your saw guide is, the less problems you are going to have, but you are ultimately still cutting with a sawblade that is built to cut into hardened materials, and has kerf that makes the cutting surface farther away from the blade. It drifts a bit, but isn't a practical issue. Make sure you are applying slight pressure towards the main body of the fork to minimize the drifting.

Pipe cutter leaves a more perpendicular top, but will require you to file off a burr on the outside of the tube, unless you happen to have a REALLY expensive cutter (like a Knipex/Gedore) that allows lower pressure while still tracing a consistent path. Obviously, you can't use a pipe cutter for a carbon fiber steerer.

Star-fangled nuts can be installed without a setter, but the setter makes it a generous 95% impossible to screw up. Approximately center the nut, tap the first set of fangles in, and gently align by hitting the side of the setter. Knock in until it hits the steerer tube (sound changes!).

Crown races can be seated with PVC, as above, but be sure to make your tool carefully if the race has integrated seals (like some Cane Creek versions).
Interesting you mention the burr on the OUTSIDE with the pipe-cutter. I've always had it pretty much leave it perfect on the outside, actually with a slight chamfer due to the angle of the cutting wheel. However I typically get a burr on the inside but I just use a hole-cleaning tool since I have those laying around.

I use a REALLY cheap pipe cutter from Pep Boys I bought like 20 years ago...
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I was going to mention putting the fork in the vertical mill...


Interesting you mention the burr on the OUTSIDE with the pipe-cutter. I've always had it pretty much leave it perfect on the outside, actually with a slight chamfer due to the angle of the cutting wheel. However I typically get a burr on the inside but I just use a hole-cleaning tool since I have those laying around.

I use a REALLY cheap pipe cutter from Pep Boys I bought like 20 years ago...
Happy pipe cutter user here, I use one from Ridgid that I used for copper pipes and it comes with a deburring blade on the handle. You have to be pretty heavy handed to squeeze a steering tube with it, chances are if you push the blade too far into the pipe you won’t be able to turn the tool, unless you are the Incredible Hulk off course...
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
the inside has the burrs and some shoulder, the outside will have a shoulder.
where do you think the material goes while the wheel is going around?
it will also have a bevel, but isn't critical.
quick hit with a file takes it right down - and adds a second bevel - which might be useful!

bad picture.
1604767949348.png
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I guess it depends on the material. I've had to cut 3 aluminum steering tubes so far (which makes me an expert I suppose) and besides deburring, I had zero issues with the stem fitting over the tube. A shoulder is inevitable with a pipe cutter because the metal is pushed out of the way, but apparently without interfering with tolerances too much. Fine by me.
 

bucknejo

Well-Known Member
Is cutting and fitting a new fork something a novice home mechanic can achieve with success?

Tools
  • crown race setter
  • star nut setter
  • pipe cutter
  • YouTube
I called one shop and they said they wouldn’t do it as the bike brand I have isnt something they support. Something about liability.

Anyway, first time for everything right? Any pro tips before I get started? Measure twice, cut once.

Mission Accomplished

Went with the pipe cutter which was actually quite easy. Bought a Rigid brand so maybe that made the difference. Anyway, adding to the ease was a slotted crown race so that came off the old fork by hand and inserted on the new fork in the same way. Bought a star nut tool as well which made this job nearly impossible to f-ck up.

I now have tools for anyone who wants to borrow them for the same job or others... Which leads me to think - is there some type of tool exchange board or forum here? Is this a possible feature add somewhere down the line?

Thanks to all for all the advice. Much appreciated!

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mbruno

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I think adding a tool exchange/loan function/section to mtbnj.com would be cool. I would have lent my steerer tube cutting tools to an upstanding citizen.
100%. The most expensive tools are the ones a home mechanic uses once a year. But, pretty sure Amazon has served this function for a lot of home mechanics, including myself. Bought a fork seal set-a-ma-jig that had some hammer marks on the top of it package ripped open when I rec'd it.
 
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