Fatbike build v3

Pampa

Well-Known Member
After a few years hiatus I want to get fat again. I'm looking for a frameset, a wheelset, a spindle for a RF or SRAM crankset and a BB for that and the frameset. I have the rest of the parts. I plan to use this bike in the snow mostly (only?). Hopefully, on fresh snow and touring (as in just riding vs racing on groomed trails - not bikepacking). I've been digging info here and in some other places and the 9 zero 7 Lynx and Salsa Mukluk are the two frames that attract me the most.

For reference I owned a 9 zero 7 Al "touring" bike for a couple of years and I loved it. It had B+L on Clown Shoes and it was a tractor. Then I had a Fatboy SE for another couple of years. I liked it and did some races on it and had fun, but it's not the type of bike I want now - I think.

What am I missing? RSD Mayor v5? The 67 HTA and 117-118 wheelbase seem like a big departure from what has worked for me in the past. On the other hand, the 907 Lynx geo is very close to the 2013 frame I had, and the Mukluk is close to that as well. Speaking of that, is there anything that can justify the $700 difference between the 907 and the Mukluk framesets?


Second decision is about the wheelset. Looking at the Nextie Xiphias (single wall, 26", 99mm iw) and the their Black Dragon II (double wall, 26", ~85 iw?). I'm thinking about using B+L for good floatation (not Vee's 2XLs as it seems the marginal floatation benefits come with some drawbacks). I liked the B+L on Clown shoes but I remember how much snow they were collecting in deep snow. It looks like the Black Dragon II design helps with this and they don't require tape, so they are a bit lighter as well. Any thoughts on which way to go?

Finally, I'm thinking about using a SRAM XX1 Eagle (preferred option) or RF Next SL crankset (I have both) for which I'd buy a long/fat bike spindle. I'm looking for a narrow Q factor (for a fatbike). Any advantages on any combination of the framesets above and these cranksets or is any combo the same?

Thanks!
 

Pampa

Well-Known Member
A couple of week ago I was very excited when I got this:

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Pampa

Well-Known Member
I did ask before ordering the frame id B+L on Nextie 105s would fit and they told me "We haven't run into any clearance issues with 26" wheels and tires". I was able to send it back but they killed me with the shipping (2X+ the cost of shipping to me?!, to and from the same points).

In any case, waiting for a Corvus Akio frame (previously Fatback). They told me these would fit. The only thing missing after that is a crankset. I think I'll get snow before I get the crankset but we'll see.
 

bergsnj

Well-Known Member
Well, those wheels and tires are freaking cool. I'm excited to follow along with the corvus build and see how it turns out. I have a feeling it is going to be another great winter for snow biking.
 

Pampa

Well-Known Member
Well, those wheels and tires are freaking cool. I'm excited to follow along with the corvus build and see how it turns out. I have a feeling it is going to be another great winter for snow biking.
Thanks! I can't wait to try them. Will post some pics once I get the frame. Hopefully within 2 weeks now. Still missing the crankset though. It looks like late Nov for that.
 

Pampa

Well-Known Member
First hiccup on the assembly. The fork I have has a tapered base for the race crown, whereas the lower assembly of my headset is for a flat base (or one with a smaller ramp. I think something like this should solve the problem: FSA C-33 IS47 Headset Lower Assembly. If this is the way to go, I'd not install the crown race, just use the lower assembly on the fork directly. Something tells me that this is not OK though :) Any thoughts/ideas?

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Mr.Moto

Well-Known Member
It's almost like it has a built in crown race.

Website says: HEADSET: Integrated 1 1/8″ Upper(Campy) – 1 1/5″ Lower

Assuming misprint and it should be 1.5" lower?
 

Pampa

Well-Known Member
It's almost like it has a built in crown race.

That exactly what I think. It's an "old" fork (first gen Lauf Carbonara. I think this an old(er) standard.

Good catch on the lower diameter. I'll measure and check. It might be that this lower is for non-tapered forks.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
First hiccup on the assembly. The fork I have has a tapered base for the race crown, whereas the lower assembly of my headset is for a flat base (or one with a smaller ramp. I think something like this should solve the problem: FSA C-33 IS47 Headset Lower Assembly. If this is the way to go, I'd not install the crown race, just use the lower assembly on the fork directly. Something tells me that this is not OK though :) Any thoughts/ideas?

View attachment 170883
I would just make sure the inner race of the lower headset bearing is cut at the right angle (either 36deg or 45deg).
 
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