Fat-capable hitch rack - what’s best?

Patrick

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
Mr.Moto said:
I really like my 1Up rack as well. Fits all manner of bikes. Super solid. Bike on and off in seconds. Same for for the rack which can be good or bad. Agree that it looks like someone cobbled it up in metal shop.

@Patrick Since you have one and are the resident mech guru - question regarding disassembly. I have a first gen rack I bought on here which had one of the blue rotating tabs tweaked, cracking the center plate. I got the replacement parts, but find that the countersunk screws securing the plate use a small hex size and the screws seem to be really stuck - galvanic corrosion? I'm pretty close to stripping the hex area in the screw. Tried heat, PB blaster, no luck. Any suggestions? Was thinking to just have at it with an EZ out.
Click to expand...

ez out. i think the sunken bolts are al, so it should break free without a problem.
might try heating it and letting it cool down a few times. not ripping hot, just enough to get the receiving side to expand/contract a couple times.
gl - report back!
 
A Potted Plant

A Potted Plant

Honorary Sod
Mr.Moto said:
I really like my 1Up rack as well. Fits all manner of bikes. Super solid. Bike on and off in seconds. Same for for the rack which can be good or bad. Agree that it looks like someone cobbled it up in metal shop.

@Patrick Since you have one and are the resident mech guru - question regarding disassembly. I have a first gen rack I bought on here which had one of the blue rotating tabs tweaked, cracking the center plate. I got the replacement parts, but find that the countersunk screws securing the plate use a small hex size and the screws seem to be really stuck - galvanic corrosion? I'm pretty close to stripping the hex area in the screw. Tried heat, PB blaster, no luck. Any suggestions? Was thinking to just have at it with an EZ out.
Click to expand...

Impact screw driver 25% of the time works every time

In all seriousness I can bring it with me next time we ride. It always worked with rusted bolts this should be a breeze
 
Mr.Moto

Mr.Moto

Well-Known Member
The Governor of Maxtown said:
Impact screw driver 25% of the time works every time

In all seriousness I can bring it with me next time we ride. It always worked with rusted bolts this should be a breeze
Click to expand...

Have one too, thanks. Will give it try. Guessing I will strip out the hex socket in the screw, but then EZ out time.
 
HiFiGuy

HiFiGuy

Well-Known Member
Patrick said:
details on your light solution please. i've been looking to do something like this.
similar to your pic, check out mine - the wheels/tires do a nice job at blocking the taillights.
Click to expand...

Hope this makes sense, I’m not really that good at this stuff. Ordered a 36” red tailflex led light strip from LEDGlow.com (pretty much a tailgate led strip for a Jeep). The light strip has a standard 4 pin electrical connection, to trailer wiring harness. Mounted a piece of 2” flat aluminum to a 1” square aluminum tube. I painted it black to match the rack. I mounted the led strip to the lower half of the 2” flat aluminum. I measured and drilled two holes through the 1” square aluminum tube, to use the add on bolt holes, ordered another set of bolts from 1up. I figured this way I could mount it to what ever configuration I’m in; one or two bike. Cost me about 80 bucks:
Led strip $40
1up bolts $10
Aluminum $30
Let me know if anything doesn’t make sense.


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Patrick

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
HiFiGuy said:
Hope this makes sense, I’m not really that good at this stuff. Ordered a 36” red tailflex led light strip from LEDGlow.com (pretty much a tailgate led strip for a Jeep). The light strip has a standard 4 pin electrical connection, to trailer wiring harness. Mounted a piece of 2” flat aluminum to a 1” square aluminum tube. I painted it black to match the rack. I mounted the led strip to the lower half of the 2” flat aluminum. I measured and drilled two holes through the 1” square aluminum tube, to use the add on bolt holes, ordered another set of bolts from 1up. I figured this way I could mount it to what ever configuration I’m in; one or two bike. Cost me about 80 bucks:
Led strip $40
1up bolts $10
Aluminum $30
Let me know if anything doesn’t make sense.


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Click to expand...

good project!

The aluminum bolts were a nice touch -
I might go a little cheaper on the LEDs, Will report back!
 
moose35

moose35

Well-Known Member
Mr.Moto said:
I really like my 1Up rack as well. Fits all manner of bikes. Super solid. Bike on and off in seconds. Same for for the rack which can be good or bad. Agree that it looks like someone cobbled it up in metal shop.

@Patrick Since you have one and are the resident mech guru - question regarding disassembly. I have a first gen rack I bought on here which had one of the blue rotating tabs tweaked, cracking the center plate. I got the replacement parts, but find that the countersunk screws securing the plate use a small hex size and the screws seem to be really stuck - galvanic corrosion? I'm pretty close to stripping the hex area in the screw. Tried heat, PB blaster, no luck. Any suggestions? Was thinking to just have at it with an EZ out.
Click to expand...
@Mr.Moto
If you strip out the hex heads an appropriate sized torx driver will fit and grab better then the hex wrench.
 
shrpshtr325

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Patrick said:
Break light?
also check the "running light" wiring example.

View attachment 111924
Click to expand...


probably not a bar style like that, but they do sell LED trailer lights, Neat setup, but with needing the 5th wire for reverse . . . .(i would hardwire if i put one of those on a tailgate anyway, but thats not really an option for a rack mounted light, unless you are making the rack permanent)
 
Patrick

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
shrpshtr325 said:
probably not a bar style like that, but they do sell LED trailer lights, Neat setup, but with needing the 5th wire for reverse . . . .(i would hardwire if i put one of those on a tailgate anyway, but thats not really an option for a rack mounted light, unless you are making the rack permanent)
Click to expand...

i have a 7 pin receptacle - just in case it needs its own breaks. ;)
The idea of the sequential turn signal in amber seems "smart"
 
serviceguy

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Mr.Moto said:
Have one too, thanks. Will give it try. Guessing I will strip out the hex socket in the screw, but then EZ out time.
Click to expand...

Especially if the bolts are aluminum and you strip the hex head you can a ) drill it out using a reverse flute drill bit, at some point it will break loose b) drill it out and re-thread (or time-set it).

This reminds me I 'need' to buy a set of reverse flute drill bits (or dig out the one I believe I already have somewhere in the garage loft).
 
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