Drive side of rear axle needs 1mm?

a.s.

a.s.

Mr. Chainring
Last night I swapped my alloy Fuji frame for a carbon one. It’s a fatbike with 197x12 spacing. The carbon one is a Framed wolftrax. When I put on the rear wheel, there wasn’t enough space between the cassette and frame to run the chain on the highest gear. The chain rubs slightly against the frame.

Could it be my bottom bracket spacing / chain alignment? Do I need a washer at the axle? It’s an Industry Nine hub.

Thanks.
 
is your cassette tightened to the full torque? iv had this be the problem with a rubbing chain before.
 
That's the vibe I'm getting. Cassette isn't tightened down enough. There's usually 5mm or so of end cap sticking out past the cassette.
 
a.s. said:
Will take the wheel off later and check.
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if it appears to be tight, take it off, clean and grease the threads and put it back on, iv seen dirty threads reach the measure torque rating before everything is all the way together (not on bicycle stuff, but its equally likely here that grit caused the torque requirement to be higher than specified, since its always specified for clean threads)
 
Ugh 😫 I can’t get the cassette off. Even after my son gave the wrench a few wacks with a hammer. WTF!?! :mad:
 
Mr.Moto said:
Assuming you are holding the cassette with a chain whip. I use a breaker bar to loosen the cassette retainer.
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Yes, I’m using a chain whip. Tomorrow I’ll try using a pipe for leverage. I see a new cassette and cassette body in my future. 😫
 
Guessing you may have accidentally tightened the cassette down on the end of the splines, rather than on them.

Chain whip on left side, facing the ground, with the cassette in front (you are standing behind the wheel, with the cassette facing away), lockring tool on the right, again facing the ground. The tools should be horizontal --O-- . Push both towards the ground.

If it still won't budge, put the lockring tool in a vise, and 'unscrew' the cassette from it with the chain whip.
 
Karate Monkey said:
Guessing you may have accidentally tightened the cassette down on the end of the splines, rather than on them.

Chain whip on left side, facing the ground, with the cassette in front (you are standing behind the wheel, with the cassette facing away), lockring tool on the right, again facing the ground. The tools should be horizontal --O-- . Push both towards the ground.

If it still won't budge, put the lockring tool in a vise, and 'unscrew' the cassette from it with the chain whip.
Click to expand...
Yes, that’s what I’m doing. I’ve taken plenty of cassettes off. Never had one this stuck before. I’ll try again later this evening- see if I can get more leverage using a pipe through the tool handle.
 
Took the bike to my LBS for a fork rebuild. I’ll attempt the cassette removal when I get it back. Or maybe I’ll pull a “While I’m here, any chance you can...”
:thumbsup:
 
jimvreeland said:
This works 100% of the time. The mechanic might fill your downtube with dog poop, but your bike will shift when it leaves 🤣🤣
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Well if he’s going to do that, then I’ll bring my dropper post too. He can run the line through my seat tube. This is going to be awesome. Stinky but awesome. :cool:
 
Decided to leave the cassette alone and run the 1mm spacer for now. Just got the bike back after getting the fork serviced. It’s shifting and riding well so don’t want to open up Pandora’s box. I’ll wait till the thing blows up on me. Hopefully not too deep in the woods. o_O
 
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