Compact VS Triple VS Double

NJ-XC-Justin

KY-DH-Freddy
Compact here. 1x9 guy so obviously the less up front the better for me, though you obviously require 2 chainrings for the road. outside of it being a big jump from one chainring to another the compact is a good idea.
 

Mk1Racer

New Member
I switched to compact with 50/34. I found myself switching back and forth between the two rings too often. I changed the 34 to a 36 and that solved the problem. I run a 12/23 for the Hopewell area (hilly) and a 12/21 for most flat riding. I have never run out of gears on the downhills. (this can be a function of being able to spin well at 150rpm cadence) Having one tooth increments in the back is a big plus on the road.

As a side note, I put a 12/27 cassette on my mtn bike and love it. The increments are closer and it's lighter.

I'm a bit confused by your post. A 12-23 w/ a 50/36 is a 5-gear cross-over w/ the 50/21 combo being half a gear-inch less than the 36/15 combo (62.8 vs 63.3). The 12-23 w/ a 50/34 is a 6-gear cross w/ the 50/19 being pretty much equal to the 34/13 (69.4 vs 69.0) or 5-gear cross w/ a 1/2 step gain going from the 50/21 to the 34/15 (62.8 vs 59.8).

I ran a 50/36 w/ a 12-23, and found it to be a great setup if the hills weren't too big (I live in Hillsborough, and ride the Sourland ridge quite a bit). But, I went to a 50/34 last week because I have been riding w/ a fast group out of Morristown, and found that the extra 2 - 2.5 gears I get out of the 34 help me spin more on the bigger hills (Guinea Hollow, Old Army, Bissell, Pottersville, etc.). It's helped me to stay w/ the group on the bigger hills, and I still have the tight spacing in the back when I run the big ring (50). I could have gotten pretty much the same thing by using a 36/50 w/ a 12-25, but I don't like that 17-19 jump, as I like the 18 in there, and find that I run the 50/18 a fair amount.

If I find that I really need more top end, I'll swap the 12t bottom cog out for an 11t. That will give me a 120 gear-inch top ratio, which is actually better than a 53/12 top gear (116.5). I don't think that's going to be much of an issue though, as it's not too often that I push the 50/12 at much above 120 rpm (although I have spun it out to 46.5mph).

After all that, I vote for a compact (either 34/50 or 36/50, depending on where you ride. I can't see going w/ a triple, as it's too much extra weight, and I don't want to widen my rear gear spacing to run a 39/53. I would like to try my 34/50 setup w/ a 12-21 straight block, just to see how that 20t cog works. There aren't too many hills where I need the 34/23, and the 34/21 is < 1/2 a gear harder than the 36/23 (42.7 vs 41.3 gear-inches).
 

pixychick

JORBA: Ringwood
JORBA.ORG
Anyone else switch lately? I have been running campy 53/39, 13/29 in the hills and spin out on downhill with the 13. I never considered compact because campy had nothing that was better than what I had, and I love campy. I am in the market for a new bike, and sram seems to have the answers. The 34 small ring sounds logical, but most here prefer the 36. Anyone up north happy with the 34?
 
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Steve Vai

Endurance Guy: Tolerates most of us.
I've converted to a compact. It came on my TJ. I changed the gearing to a 36/50 up front and an 11-23t in the back. The 36/23 feels like the same effort to push as my old 39/25 and the 50/11 is taller than a 53/12. :popcorn:

-Jim.
 

jdog

Shop: Halter's Cycles
Shop Keep
Triples are for the birds.

SRAM does not even make one.

For 2010 you will be able to run a XX rear der with your road shifters (if they are sram) and a 11-36 cass. That gearing will be a low of 34 x 36. No more triples.
 

BiknBen

Well-Known Member
If you are concerned about spinning out, why are you considering a compact. You will spin out sooner.

I've been running compact on my C'Dale for 2+ years. 50, 36 up front and whatever I need on the back. It's Shimano so my max cassette is 27t. I've climbed walls with the 27.

On most rides, I rarely use the small ring any more. A 50t chainring with a 25t or 27t cog give me just enough to get over many hills in my area. For me the range of gears in the 50t is nice and I like not having to shift the front as much I used to with a standard crank.
 

pixychick

JORBA: Ringwood
JORBA.ORG
Thanks all. Sram compact seems to be the way to go. 50x11 and 50x12 is taller than my 53x13. I've just been running this big touring cog set 13/29 for climbing. Not worth to change the bike I have, but if I'm starting from scratch, I may get something lighter and more suitable for me. Just not sure if I should go 34 or 36 for the small ring.
 

RacerChick

Hudson Valley Girl
Thanks all. Sram compact seems to be the way to go. 50x11 and 50x12 is taller than my 53x13. I've just been running this big touring cog set 13/29 for climbing. Not worth to change the bike I have, but if I'm starting from scratch, I may get something lighter and more suitable for me. Just not sure if I should go 34 or 36 for the small ring.

Hey Pix :p
Two years ago I changed over to a 50/34 Compact on my road bike with a 12/27 10 speeder on the rear. It has helped me not only in climbing, but has seemed to make me faster overall. Tommy always complained that triples shift like poop. Since I do most of my road riding in New York now where the climbing seems to go on and on with grades in the 12 % + range I usually ride my Ridely Cross bike (and being a wuss) I put on a MTB double chainring in the front 46/32 with a 12/28 9 speeder out back. With that set up I can spin up the climbs rather than grind/grunt/bitch :drooling:
I also have a right knee tracking issue as well so the smaller chain rings are a big asset. Sure I can spin out on the decents, but when I hit speeds over 40 mph I get the woolies anyway :scared:
RC ... :)
 
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ChrisG

Unapologetic Lifer for Rock and Roll
Just not sure if I should go 34 or 36 for the small ring.
IMO, there are two potential downsides of the 34 vs. 36. One would be the potential for slightly less precise front shifting with the smaller ring, due to the larger disparity in chainring sizes. I suspect this is not an issue in the real world for most riders.

The 34 gives you an obviously wider gear range on the lower end, but you will run out of gears more quickly on the top end, thus needing to go to your big ring "sooner" than you would with a 36.

If your primary concerns are at the top and bottom of your gear ranges, it would seem that the 34 is the ticket.
 
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pixychick

JORBA: Ringwood
JORBA.ORG
great description chris. I had my fitting last night, and he recommended the 34. With sram I can go 11/26 to 11/28, both which will give me slightly more range than I have had. The 26 will probably be fine as the new rig may be 2 - 3 lbs lighter.
 

noonito

New Member
Racing with compact cranks

Just out of curiosity, does anyone race criteriums or road races with a compact crankset?
 

BiknBen

Well-Known Member
Just out of curiosity, does anyone race criteriums or road races with a compact crankset?

Some schmuck named Lance Armstrong won a few Tours de France on compact cranks, I think what? 7? ;)

I have compact cranks on my road racer. I prefer the 50t chain ring. I don't need to shift chain rings much and basically use it as a 1x10 with a 12-25 or 27 cassette.

I don't recall LA using a compact. I remember Tyler Hamilton was one of the first mainstream pros to use a compact in the '03 TdF. After breaking his shoulder, he rode the remainder of the tour on a compact so he could spin easier gears on the climbs.
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Anyone know of a good source for 10sp larger compact rings?

My new bike has a 46t big ring and I think it's a little too small. Debating buying a new cassette with a 11-XX compared to my 12-25 or bigger ring in the front.

Anyone think I'll have shifting issues with a 36/50? I like the 36 but would consider a 38. I also have a triple front shifter and triple front derailleur with my compact crank, however it shifts great at the moment eith the 36/48.

-Steve
 
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