Car-spotting thread

Roller or flat tappet? Last one I did a retro fit roller.
Flat, Pretty much the stock grind. One of the lobes was completely wiped, I think it's the original @ 106K miles. I want to get it back together to sell it so nothing other than basic functionality.

Already had to re-core the radiator, as that was shot, and put a new water pump. I'm sure I'm not done either. :mad:

Just have my fingers crossed that the cam breaks in OK.
 
Break -in procedure is very important, along with correct oil.
Have it ready to fire up and run 2500 rpm's right away, no long cranking time or setting the timing, it's got to rev up immediately.
 
Break -in procedure is very important, along with correct oil.
Have it ready to fire up and run 2500 rpm's right away, no long cranking time or setting the timing, it's got to rev up immediately.
So set it for something like 10 degrees BTDC?
 
yeah and have a dial back timing light ready, coolant filled while a heater hose is disconnected to burp air, carb filled with gas through the vent hole, oil pump and filter primed, valves adjusted, p/s pump filled (dont ask how i know) it's a pia but way better than wiping out a cam in 5 minutes.
 
Thanks for the tips. No PS or PB on this one. So disconnect the heater hose and fold over to burp the air?
 
20 to 25 with the vacuum advance disconnected is about right. Leave one of the heater hoses off, fill the rad or if yours has the surge tank, until coolant is up to where the thermostat is. Or remove thermostat and fill there. Point is to get air out of the system so it won't puke coolant while you have it blasting away at 2500.
Do you have an oil pump primer that turns with a drill?
 
Isn't there assembly lube that gets it through the first 60 seconds?
 
Isn't there assembly lube that gets it through the first 60 seconds?
I have a healthy dose of assembly lube on everything, but getting all the oil galleys filled is key from what I read. I have an old screwdriver sans handle that I think will work fine for this.
 
I have a healthy dose of assembly lube on everything, but getting all the oil galleys filled is key from what I read. I have an old screwdriver sans handle that I think will work fine for this.
There is an oil galley that the distributor housing is part of. I have a homemade primer if you want to use it.
 
There is an oil galley that the distributor housing is part of. I have a homemade primer if you want to use it.

Would it be enough to bring the oil pressure up using the starter with the primary wire disconnected?
Or is this only a thing on cars that have been run?
 
Would it be enough to bring the oil pressure up using the starter with the primary wire disconnected?
Or is this only a thing on cars that have been run?
You don't want to crank it, it's best to get it spinning 2500 rpm as quickly as possible. The oil thrown off the crankshaft is the only way the lobes get lubed. Cranking is just grinding the new parts together.
 
Would it be enough to bring the oil pressure up using the starter with the primary wire disconnected?
Or is this only a thing on cars that have been run?
One of the reasons for priming the pump is to make sure you can get pressure without rotating the engine with "dry" bearings. Also, when you prime it you're guaranteeing that you won't get any cavitation from trying to push air.
 
The supercars were out today. After a day full of stay at home spring cleaning I took a short spin for a break. On 80 and 287 I saw three Ferraris in the space of 20 mins: a 308 (no pic) a California (no pic) and a Daytona (!!)
23604632-44A1-41C7-AC88-FECBDC74C163.jpeg
Also saw this, ummm, beauty :oops:...why “spoil” a perfectly good RX7?
11C61F5E-E0BE-4DA9-B0B9-590A7977D48F.jpeg
 
The supercars were out today. After a day full of stay at home spring cleaning I took a short spin for a break. On 80 and 287 I saw three Ferraris in the space of 20 mins: a 308 (no pic) a California (no pic) and a Daytona (!!)
View attachment 122501
Also saw this, ummm, beauty :oops:...why “spoil” a perfectly good RX7?
View attachment 122502

a real daytona? wow.
i've seen the z car conversions, and the vette conversions on the road.
so jealous!
 
Ok, I'm confused.

Why is not priming (running the oil pump sans distributor) the way to go? I thought you'd get oil through all the passages/bearings.

And @Patrick what benefit is an electric fuel pump? I'd imagine those cam driven pumps are good enough for high flow of any minor bolt-ons?
 
the right side oil galley is part of the distributor housing, if primed without the dist in place there will be no oil to right bank lifters
 

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the right side oil galley is part of the distributor housing, if primed without the dist in place there will be no oil to right bank lifters

Yeah, when I say primed, I mean using the bottom portion of the distributor, which I think is what you're also saying? And have a homemade tool for per your post.

Oh, and doesn't it need to run in REVERSE?
 
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