Caliper/Break Pads and Rotor Alignment Question.

Mr_T

Member
Hi...it seems like every time I remove my rear wheel (for general cleaning maintenance..etc), the caliper/break pads and rotor never seem to be in alignment when I put the wheel back and I have some rubbing. Sometimes I'm able to remedy the situation by moving the wheel, making sure it is flush up in the frame, however this doesn't always work.

Is there some form of fine tune adjustment without having loosen and readjust the entire caliper housing?

Breaks: Avid Juicy 7

Thanks!

-Marc
 

ellbiddy

Active Member
If I remember, the 7's have a caliper adjustment on the lever (that fancy little dial), but usually it's an issue of your wheel sitting right, make sure you tighten it while it's on the ground. I also get rub when I try to fit my wheels on the stand.

Btw, when we riding again, you guys just vanished for a while.
 

Mr_T

Member
Hey Leo...thanks...I think those red little dials regulate the amount of lever pull before the caliper is engaged, and not a fine tune adjustment of the caliper opening. I will take your advice on the ground fit approach

I've been a bit busy the last few weeks, I think Greg has been too. I hope to be off on Tuesday so I am up for 6mile if I can swing the day... I will keep you posted.

I hope to have my new toy installed...705 Edge :D

-Marc
 

Fogerson

Former Resident Nerd
I had the same issue sometimes on my SIR9 w/my Formulas. I never had this issue w/the (same) Formulas on my Turner.

At first, I chalked it up to slight distortion in the chain stay when I clamp the QR. The chain stay on the SIR9 (steel) is more flexible than the Turner (aluminum)...

I even thought I wasn't getting the wheel seated in the drop-outs properly while on the stand. So I tried loosening the QR when the bike was on the ground and re-tightening...didn't seem to help the situation.

When I got the C29SSMAXs on my SIR9, it seemed to improve. This tells me it had something to do with the bearings on my old wheels. I guess depending on the particular way the bearings got loaded when tightening the QR, the wheel could be a little farther right or left than the previous time; we're talking probably < 1mm, but that is all it takes on my Formulas to go from clear to drag.

So, I'd start with making sure that your wheel bearings are adjusted properly, make sure that the axle is seated in the dropouts properly every time (like Leo says, tighten the QR when the bike is on the ground), and that your QR tension is consistent.
 

ellbiddy

Active Member
From SRAM:

Adjusting your Pad Contact-Point has never been so nice. This year the Juicy Seven has an all-new, very glove-friendly aluminum knob.

Pad contact == spacing == rub ;p

It was one of the big perks of moving up to the 7's from the 5's, the actual lever reach is a adjusted with a 2mm hex bolt (but that's on the lever assembly too).

But again it's usually just seating the wheel correctly :)

And nice, I picked up a 305 for my roadie, and I still use my 405 watch thing for the mtb since I'm afraid that when I crash the 305 will eat it too. Apparently you're living large, dropping all that cash :p
 

Mr_T

Member
OK..so the little red hex bolt is in fact for pad contact per the pic on the site...never noticed that....I did read the manuals..I must have overlooked that cause I was under the impression they were for some form of trim setting to adjust the engage point of the caliper in relation to your pull, not actually spacing of the pads. I guess I was mislead by someone in the past. Thanks for pointing this out!

I got the 705 over the others because I don't own a GPS, I can use it on my bike and in my Car!


From SRAM:

Adjusting your Pad Contact-Point has never been so nice. This year the Juicy Seven has an all-new, very glove-friendly aluminum knob.

Pad contact == spacing == rub ;p

It was one of the big perks of moving up to the 7's from the 5's, the actual lever reach is a adjusted with a 2mm hex bolt (but that's on the lever assembly too).

But again it's usually just seating the wheel correctly :)

And nice, I picked up a 305 for my roadie, and I still use my 405 watch thing for the mtb since I'm afraid that when I crash the 305 will eat it too. Apparently you're living large, dropping all that cash :p
 

MTB Aussie

Member
I'm not an expert on these brakes but I have had a similar issue in the past. Usually the caliper wasn't properly mounted or has moved a bit since installation. If you get it so it's not rubbing by resetting the QR with the bike firmly on the ground, then put the bike on a stand, take a close look and see if there is more clearance on one pad or the other. If the rotor is nicely centered then you are good, if the rotor is closer to one pad you should reset the position by loosening the bolts, spinning the wheel, applying the brake and holding it while tightening the bolts. These are the bolts that hold the caliper to the mounting bracket (not the bracket to frame bolts). This should center the rotor and reduce the likelihood of this problem occurring after wheel removal.
 

Mr_T

Member
Thanks Aussie....real glad you are around to post mate, thanks! I did exactly what you described....it took a bit, but got it fixed. Apparently there is a fine tune adjustment for minor rubbing so you don't have to mess too much with the mounting screws.


I'm not an expert on these brakes but I have had
a similar issue in the past. Usually the caliper wasn't properly mounted or has moved a bit since installation. If you get it so it's not rubbing by resetting the QR with the bike firmly on the ground, then put the bike on a stand, take a close look and see if there is more clearance on one pad or the other. If the rotor is nicely centered then you are good, if the rotor is closer to one pad you should reset the position by loosening the bolts, spinning the wheel, applying the brake and holding it while tightening the bolts. These are the bolts that hold the caliper to the mounting bracket (not the bracket to frame bolts). This should center the rotor and reduce the likelihood of this problem occurring after wheel removal.
 
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