A strong 7
is there an ideal cadence or target range for cruising, climbing, sprinting, etc?
Be good at varying!! Yes Yes YEs!! I agree, especially with mountain biking. Hmmm, I think I need to get to work, cause I been slackin in that department.:hitsfan: :sleep:I agree with everything Norm says above and would add from my own experience that learning to pedal smoothly and efficiently is what separates cyclists from people who ride bikes.
Pedaling smoothly begets pedaling at higher cadences, and it is something that can be learned and practiced on every ride.
The ability to vary one's cadence effectively is really a big deal on the SS, obviously.
I chuckled at this first comment. Its something to strive for.I don't stop while riding so trip time is easy to figure out.
The way it works is this: when current time - start time is more than 3 hours, start thinking about getting back home. Especially these days.
i normally cannot go more than 1.5 hours without eating. I have been getting better though. I just need to eatThat is just me, I usually only bring water on my rides, so 3-hour is just about right. That's usually 30 miles off-road, RV style, or around 60 miles on the road when it's not too flat.
I will do the occasional 5-6 hours epic but that usually ends up with broken stuff on the bike.
No. Just pedal in whatever gear you are comfy in. Generally a high cadence is like 95 or up. Start out with maybe 1 or 2 gears lower then what you are used to.when beginning to train the legs to spin, should gearing be an issue? I am not yet strong enough to spin a high cadence in big gears, but a high cadence ride doesn't seem to get me anywhere fast (yet).
What are best ways to tackle getting cadence and power to increase? Should I work on one first and then worry about the other, is there a point where the training for each should intersect?
For the first time I have a computer w/ a cadence sensor and I want to utilize the feature to my greatest benefit.
just stick another water bottle in your middle jersey pocket. all the times i've done that, i've never had one bounce out. with three bottles, you should have more than 72 oz. you'll aslo sweat less without the camelback, so you shouldn't need as much. i posit that those 72oz in bottles will last you just as long as 100oz in a camelback because of the decrease in sweat.i normally cannot go more than 1.5 hours without eating. I have been getting better though. I just need to eat
I have been able to sneak out two water bottles for 3 hours. Although yesterday it was a bit warmer, and i barely had enough water to make it. I could have rode more but i was out of water. so im not sure if should go back to the camelback or not. I have been riding the last few months without it.
Yes, I do need a stem, maybe I will come by tonight if not one night next week. It's been too nice to be shopping, I've been riding insteadIf you are bouncing off the saddle you might want to slow it down a bit.
It is OK to work up to higher rpms over time.
I ride at a pretty high cadence most of the time on the road. My comfort zone is about 105 at 21 mph on the flats. Keep in mind that I live on a SS mt bike and I am using Rotor q-rings on all my bike.
Do you still need a stem?
You're correct, this is not easy, which is one reason why it's not pursued as much as it ought to be. It takes a while (years) for the muscle memory to develop, but there seems little doubt that it's well worth the effort if one intends to be a cyclist long-term and is interested in higher performance.This kind of training is not easy. I got into a rhythm after awhile, and I have been very conscientious of keeping my pedal strokes smooth, trying to spin vs. hammer. But high cadence spinning is weird. My legs would come around so quickly sometimes my butt would take little hops off the saddle. I would drop gears when this started to happen but sometimes it still caught me by surprise.
Sometimes on hills I drop to 8-7-6. I've seen 4.x this year at least twice. Some hills you just can't spin, period. You don't need to spin all the time. You just want to be able to ride at a variety of cadences.Hills are an issue for me - even in my easiest gear I was spinning high 70s - low 80s and my speed was totally scrubbed - on the biggest hill of the ride I dropped to ~8 mph for a few seconds before I put in the effort to bring it back up for the last push.
What size cassette and chainrings do you have? If you're running a 53-39 and a 12-25 cassette spinning on a hill is gonna be tough.OK, so tonight's ride had a snafu towards the end, but it started out well.
I went out tonight with a goal to keep my cadence high. I started out on my usual 18 mile loop that has a few small hills and some sections with a coupla rollers, but is mostly flat. After a warm up spin around the block I hit the route spinning at around 96 rpm and tried to keep it there. I do not have an average cadence reading on my bike computer but everytime I glanced at it I was somewhere in the range of 91-96, and after a while I got used to the feeling of it, so as my legs went 'round I could sort of guess at what my cadence might be. I started to play that game with myself, spinning and guessing where my RPMs were and then looking at the computer for the reading.
Hills are an issue for me - even in my easiest gear I was spinning high 70s - low 80s and my speed was totally scrubbed - on the biggest hill of the ride I dropped to ~8 mph for a few seconds before I put in the effort to bring it back up for the last push.
My average speed before the flat tire was 14.4 mph with a sustained high cadence for about 85% of the ride.
This kind of training is not easy. I got into a rhythm after awhile, and I have been very conscientious of keeping my pedal strokes smooth, trying to spin vs. hammer. But high cadence spinning is weird. My legs would come around so quickly sometimes my butt would take little hops off the saddle. I would drop gears when this started to happen but sometimes it still caught me by surprise.