Boost wheel in non boost steel frame...also, why are noodles so expensive?

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Incorrect information by a seller on e-bay led me to purchase a boost wheel set that I was supposed to use as the trail wheels on my El Mariachi build. The El Mar frame is non boost but when I tested the rear wheel on the frame it went in with very little persuasion (other than the axle being barely threading on the driving side). I was wondering if it would be safe to use the boost wheelset on the El Mar frame given it's steel and hence quite flexible, as it didn't seem to screw up think (visibly). Cassette and disc brake would line up as their position is determined by the end caps (and since the hubs are DT Swiss 350 the end caps are the same for boost and non boost). Obviously I would need a new axle to secure things.

Just boost curious (I know @jimvreeland , I'm so 2014 peasant..). If that were the case I would have to be on the market for another carbon fiber firestarter, this time in boost size...probably more expensive than a good set of non boos wheels!
 

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
Can you grind/file down end caps? Is your current frame 135 or 142? If 142, 6 mm to boost is basically nothing, less than 1/8" on either side. I would say go for it.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Can you grind/file down end caps? Is your current frame 135 or 142? If 142, 6 mm to boost is basically nothing, less than 1/8" on either side. I would say go for it.

Current frame setup is 142mm.

If you grind the end caps you're messing with the derailleur/cassette distance which is referred to the frame. Plus, you're messing up with the hub/frame contact area.

I know, you can compensate adjusting the derailleur...but if I decide to go with it I'll leave it as it is.
 

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
Current frame setup is 142mm.

If you grind the end caps you're messing with the derailleur/cassette distance which is referred to the frame. Plus, you're messing up with the hub/frame contact area.

I know, you can compensate adjusting the derailleur...but if I decide to go with it I'll leave it as it is.
It would be more of an issue for the disc brake alignment, but if that becomes and issue, you can use some washers on you disc brake mount unless it is direct mount. Unless you small gear in the back is close to rubbing on the frame, you should be ok grinding the caps down.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
It's largely a question of bearing alignment/longevity. If the axle is clamped unevenly, you'll see reduced bearing life.

Not so sure about that though, maybe if the axle where to flex a little as a result of the uneven contact area? The caps are aligned to the axle, which is aligned with the bearings so I 'think' that once the axle is tight there shouldn't be any major deformation, but again it's all to be seen.

It would be more of an issue for the disc brake alignment, but if that becomes and issue, you can use some washers on you disc brake mount unless it is direct mount. Unless you small gear in the back is close to rubbing on the frame, you should be ok grinding the caps down.

As far as I remember the brake mount offset to the hub end cap is the same between boost and non boost. No issue there. The hub is centerlock, so no room for adjustment there.
so
It would be interesting to hear form someone with direct experience.

BTW, due to my OCD I cannot have a boost rear and non boost front, and a Salsa carbon fork is $$$...
 

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
Not so sure about that though, maybe if the axle where to flex a little as a result of the uneven contact area? The caps are aligned to the axle, which is aligned with the bearings so I 'think' that once the axle is tight there shouldn't be any major deformation, but again it's all to be seen.



As far as I remember the brake mount offset to the hub end cap is the same between boost and non boost. No issue there. The hub is centerlock, so no room for adjustment there.
so
It would be interesting to hear form someone with direct experience.

BTW, due to my OCD I cannot have a boost rear and non boost front, and a Salsa carbon fork is $$$...
Center lock shims
https://boydcycling.com/products/centerlock-disc-brake-rotor-shim-4-pack
ocd for boost and non boost? FWIW, 142 isnt standard, 135 was standard. Maybe 142 was the newer standard :p
 

jdog

Shop: Halter's Cycles
Shop Keep
Incorrect information by a seller on e-bay led me to purchase a boost wheel set that I was supposed to use as the trail wheels on my El Mariachi build. The El Mar frame is non boost but when I tested the rear wheel on the frame it went in with very little persuasion (other than the axle being barely threading on the driving side). I was wondering if it would be safe to use the boost wheelset on the El Mar frame given it's steel and hence quite flexible, as it didn't seem to screw up think (visibly). Cassette and disc brake would line up as their position is determined by the end caps (and since the hubs are DT Swiss 350 the end caps are the same for boost and non boost). Obviously I would need a new axle to secure things.

Just boost curious (I know @jimvreeland , I'm so 2014 peasant..). If that were the case I would have to be on the market for another carbon fiber firestarter, this time in boost size...probably more expensive than a good set of non boos wheels!

Does this frame have the alternator dropouts ?
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Spoke with salsa on your behalf.

They do not make a 148 mm conversion kit / alternator dropouts.

Thank you, I really appreciate you taking the time do contact them. Full disclosure, the frame was bought from you by the original owner who's also on this board.

I actually verified that before I even bought the frame, as I usually try to gather the info during the planning...really just trying to see if I can get away with someone else murder here...not willing to compromise the frame integrity nor the wheel bearing life expectancy.
 

jdog

Shop: Halter's Cycles
Shop Keep
Thank you, I really appreciate you taking the time do contact them. Full disclosure, the frame was bought from you by the original owner who's also on this board.

I actually verified that before I even bought the frame, as I usually try to gather the info during the planning...really just trying to see if I can get away with someone else murder here...not willing to compromise the frame integrity nor the wheel bearing life expectancy.

I'd find a good 142 hub and lace it onto that rim.

Here's a good graphic that shows how the chainline is impacted as well:

1581012438794.png
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
I'd find a good 142 hub and lace it onto that rim.

Here's a good graphic that shows how the chainline is impacted as well:

View attachment 118382
I actually have two spare DT Swiss E532 in the exact same size (I believe it's the same rim on the M1700 wheel) and enough squorx nipples to lace another set. I guess I'm on the market for new hubs then...damn!

Just checked, the rear hub alone cost more than I paid for the wheel set!
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom