Bike Repairs

Shaggz

A strong 7
I am not mechanically inclined, but bought a bike stand with the hope that it would inspire me to learn how to work on my bike. Here are some random observations from tonights venture:

* i am not mechanically inclined
* my brakes are dragging, and i can't figure it out
* i successfully pulled the fron rings and bash guard off to clean the drive train and was able to put it back together, however, i still can not take a chain apart and put it back together
* i can put the rear wheel back on the bike when the tire is in the stand
* i thik i did ok adjusting my rear derailer using the barrel adjusters

I read somewhere that all bolts should be lubed when they are put back in to prevent seizing? is this true? what lube do you guys reccomend? when is lock tite appropriate?
 

ArmyOfNone

Well-Known Member
Me Too!

Dont feel so bad. I have been learning to do make simple adjustments on my bike for a few months now and i still sometimes look like i dont have a clue as to what im doing. For example today i was at the shope working on my bike and i think it took me two hours to change my rear v brake pads and adjust my front disk brake.

i feel like a annoying helpless orphan child when the guys at the shop are runnin around like chickens with their heads cut off to help customers, to tell me something they have showed me a number of times.

im hoping today i have retained some of the knowledge gained, i hate to bother ppl with simple things i should know.

Thanks to all at the shop for their help!

now about your problems (i dont have much experience also, so i could b wrong)
- If the chain doesnt have a master link, youll need a chain tool to pop out one of the pins in the link to seperate the chain. Not sure if thats what you mean.
-"* i can put the rear wheel back on the bike when the tire is in the stand"
how do you do that? i dont understand

-lubes...i have used pedros lube i think for most things. im trying to think of other times i have used lock tite- all i can think of is on my chain ring bolts. i know there are more. but idk!

like i said before im still learning as to how to do things. so im sure none if this will be of help. GL with your quest to learn bike repair. if you learn ne good tricks, post em up!
 

Norm

Mayor McCheese
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Are your brakes self-adjusting? You need a chain tool. When you take it apart do it with the punch coming at you so it's easier to put back on. Regardless, that takes some practice. I never use lock tite and the lube I use is whatever's on hand. I have 2, one I don't know the name of and the other that came with my Park tool set. The best thing to remember is that it's not rocket science.
 
S

Stan LeCupp

Guest
Steve- I believe the Hayes brakes on your bike are self adjusting.First make sure the caliper is aligned. Try putting a business card between the rotor and pad (both sides) and give the lever a squeeze. The pads should adjust outward a little.

I had a problem with my Avid brakes where I bled them with older pads installed. When I put new pads in a few months later they dragged. There was too much fluid in the system as a result of the previous brake bleed. Did a redo on the bleed and that fixed it.

If your chain has a Sram powerlink just squeeze the two outer plates inward and push the link together. The first time you try to do this it can be a little awkward but with it's really very easy.

I use Phil Wood bearing grease on bolts,bearings etc....
 
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Shaggz

A strong 7
Thanks guys -

stan, I have the sram link and will try that trick. the brakes are hayes and should be self-adjuting. i tried using the block that came with the brakes to reset them, and when i put the rotors back in, i have the gap. however, after i squeeze them several times, the pads retract only partially, and drag on the pad. i wonder if they need to be bled.
 
S

Stan LeCupp

Guest
Thanks guys -

stan, I have the sram link and will try that trick. the brakes are hayes and should be self-adjuting. i tried using the block that came with the brakes to reset them, and when i put the rotors back in, i have the gap. however, after i squeeze them several times, the pads retract only partially, and drag on the pad. i wonder if they need to be bled.
It's possible you have a little gunk on the piston that is stopping it from retracting. One thing I tried was... Remove wheel and pads. CAREFULLY press brake lever so the pistons come out a little(Carefull not to pop them out). Use a cotton swab with Rubbing alcolhol to clean around piston. Be very carefull pushing the hayes pistons back, there is a pin in the middle of the piston that holds the brake pads, avoid pressing this as it may break.

I'm not sure a bleed will help in this circumstance.

I don't know how bad they are rubbing but when I had the Hayes HFX nine Brakes I had the same problem on and off no matter what I did. It was a little annoying but I just lived with it.

BTW I'm no expert at this. Just a few ideas from my attempts at fixing my bike.:)
 
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Stan LeCupp

Guest
that was my other question - how do those pads come off?
Can't remember, I think they just slide out. I'd read through the manual on the Hayes website first (Website appears to be down right now)
 

Shaggz

A strong 7
thanks again for all the advice. i will hold you responsible for whatever goes wrong (no good deed goes unpunished).
 

Shaggz

A strong 7
the web site is up now. it seems that there is aspring that holds the pads in place. they also outline how to push the caliper back in using a 10 mm hex. i'll give that a try
 

Spylab

New Member
I have been wrenching on bikes for years, but when I bought my new bike I was really on a different level with hydraulic discs, long travel fork, rear shock, etc. This book saved me so many times:

http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Bike..._bbs_sr_2/102-4305691-5918507?ie=UTF8&s=books

Filled with color photos step by step and actually legible directions — it's almost written conversationally, enough that I was able to pull my bottom bracket first shot. It is in depth for hardtails, FS, disc, V and canti brakes alike, and definitely worth every penny.
 

Shaggz

A strong 7
i have been eyeing that book. my previous lbs made it very easy for me to be dependant on them considering they were 2 minutes from my house and never charged me for work considering the amount of coin i dropped there.
my new lbs, and they are great, but a bit too far for me to be that dependant on them.

where did you buy your giant?
 

bonefishjake

Strong like bull, smart like tractor
Team MTBNJ Halter's
hey steve-
pick up zinn's book. i think your LBS has it (will prolly be there today so i'll check for you)...if not, buy it on amazon.

i am mechanically inclined but knew very little about full-squish bikes so i bought the book. too many moving parts!

anyway, managed to pull most things apart and get them back together. only exception is the headset on the specialized but i think i lost a piece somewhere when i smacked the shock out. oops.
 

bonefishjake

Strong like bull, smart like tractor
Team MTBNJ Halter's
nahh - but i gotta look at the bent bars on his mary and was oh so excited
:D :drooling:

that one wasn't mine...but mine will be in next week or the week after. the bike is freakin' buttery smooth.
 

walter

Fourth Party
Ive been riding my mary since september and I love the damn thing. Next few weeks Im going to swap out some stuff, maybe new bars and tires.

walter
 

Shaggz

A strong 7
did you even take it as a loaner - i wanted to makeit mine, but they said it was for you - :wedgie:

i heard you were doing the reba route, mary bars or flatties? pm what you are paying, if you don't mind. are you taking the course?
 
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