Asking for some experts opinions. For real$ EDIT: they may be cracked

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
So, I Did something stupid. It’s not really about how I did it so you can stop asking.

But the fact remains that I have really fucked up this crank. I had to get petals out and I stripped the bolts and then I got a little crazy.

So if you can tell me how do you get this hacksaw remnant of a pedal out of this crank with a stripped bolt, and it works without destroying the crank, I will pay you US$50.

View attachment 145366View attachment 145367View attachment 145368
You could try to hammer something like this into it to bite. I had to do similar with a rounded 5mm bolt on my carbon frame recently... hammered a T25 into it and cranked that sucker out. Not sure what size you’d need for 8mm pedals.


I own one big enough for this. You can drop it in my mailbox, but I can promise nothing.
 

serviceguy

Well-Known Member
Ah, a bolt with impact wrench would be your best chance not to detach the aluminum insert from the carbon fiber crank...I think.
 

jShort

2018 Fantasy Football Toilet Bowl Lead Technician
Team MTBNJ Halter's
I just ordered some stuff too try and extract it. A carbide bit and the hex looking things that @Soundguy recommended. We'll see how it goes. I'll post the progress/lack thereof.
 

a.s.

Well-Known Member
So the spindle is chrome. I think. It’s an XTR, sorry it WAS an XTR pedal.

I tried to drill and maybe I used the wrong bit. I wasn’t making any progress. What kind of bit should I use? I only have a shitty 10 year old ryobi drill.

Should I be nervous to put the crank in a vice if its carbon?
Wrap the arm in a thin towel and close the vise enough to secure it. Go one drill size up at a time. As the pedal axle wears away, go up to the next size bit. The thought here is that you will eventually thin and weaken the metal to the point it will easily come out. If you’re lucky, it’ll catch and unscrew from the thread before you start to run out of metal.
 

jShort

2018 Fantasy Football Toilet Bowl Lead Technician
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Wrap the arm in a thin towel and close the vise enough to secure it. Go one drill size up at a time. As the pedal axle wears away, go up to the next size bit. The thought here is that you will eventually thin and weaken the metal to the point it will easily come out. If you’re lucky, it’ll catch and unscrew from the thread before you start to run out of metal.

I did this before with a rotor bolt in a hub. That bolt was very easy to drill into. When I tried to drill the pedal I made zero progress. But maybe I just have shit bits.
 

Santapez

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Way harder than a generic bolt. And bolts are pretty hard steel.

If you're going to go through drilling one size at a time, I'd still say to tap it and put a bolt in it to try to spin it out. No harm.
 

jShort

2018 Fantasy Football Toilet Bowl Lead Technician
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Way harder than a generic bolt. And bolts are pretty hard steel.

If you're going to go through drilling one size at a time, I'd still say to tap it and put a bolt in it to try to spin it out. No harm.
I just ordered some stuff too try and extract it. A carbide bit and the hex looking things that @Soundguy recommended. We'll see how it goes. I'll post the progress/lack thereof.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
i'll pick it up tomorrow, or drop it at my condo if you are out.
what is the penalty if i break it :D
 

Ryan.P

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
cant weld to existing steel spindle because heat will most certainly undo the bond of the insert glued into the crank . If you can't get it im sure i could . I think i had a similar problem with same pos cranks w xtr pedals . I took apart pedal and used a 2 foot pipe wrench to break it free . I'd also start soaking it in pb blaster now multiple times a day .
 

onetracker

Well-Known Member
This is not that bad. Spray with PB blaster and let sit. Do this for a couple of days.

Use soft jaws and close the arm in the vice just enough to hold the arm; not crush the arm. Use a dremel to grind/cut away the spindle slowly and GENTLY tap away the pieces with a small punch and a small hammer. Go slow and take your time. Lots of ezouts and hard bits will encourage you to crush and strip the parts you want to save. Patients, slow going, good lighting and doing this preferably using an illuminated magnifier so you can see what is happening before it is too late is the key!!!!!
 

Glenn Rides After 4 PM CST

Well-Known Member
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Cut here eliminate the tension where it's over tightened.
20201215_201115.jpg

Triple square socket beaten into stripped area. 2 or 3 cuts.
You already know my PayPal.
 

Karate Monkey

Well-Known Member
Wrap the arm in a thin towel and close the vise enough to secure it. Go one drill size up at a time. As the pedal axle wears away, go up to the next size bit. The thought here is that you will eventually thin and weaken the metal to the point it will easily come out. If you’re lucky, it’ll catch and unscrew from the thread before you start to run out of metal.

Won't work unless you could remove the face of the spindle--that's what's holding tension on the threads. [can't, because it sits right on the face of the crank--unless you happen to have a good drill press/spend some time setting the piece up]

These juans are the tits, but you only get 1-2 extractions out of them:

25d4285e-4be1-40a3-80d0-a228057783da_1.58d0b865f3b1366c44af78e5de391498.jpeg


(Rennsteig)

Both this type/spiral fluted extractors have the same problem: if you have it through the threaded area, the expansion pressure of driving these in/pulling tight can make a stuck thread WORSE. Remove no extra material unless you have no choice.

If you are undertaking this yourself, run a large bit through the back of the remains of the axle to clear out/center the face. I wouldn't be surprised if you broke/shattered the bit doing this, due to the uneven stress of the off-center hole. Use Cobalt or Carbide bits. In fact, you'll probably need a drill press in order to keep pressure on the (very hard) metal of the pedal axle. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to keep the piece cool, and use plenty of lubricant on the bits.

*edit* proof positive of experience:

ACtC-3dkTHxWYFMWVT1Pio0DpsSgBDaMDJv4OCikad-BvuSPm4ZsPp8eJNNmY8op0_KGtaQX-qPhikGPZZBXkYraLiLV2_Lq-XWvJG8_-ZHnCn4_B0_M5RqPargYB4hL4ALQOTFUE--hhSfMasoEqaqW-k1x=w1300-h975-no


(no, it didn't survive, but that was the least of the problems...)
 
Last edited:

mwlikesbikes

Well-Known Member
Won't work unless you could remove the face of the spindle--that's what's holding tension on the threads. [can't, because it sits right on the face of the crank--unless you happen to have a good drill press/spend some time setting the piece up]

These juans are the tits, but you only get 1-2 extractions out of them:

25d4285e-4be1-40a3-80d0-a228057783da_1.58d0b865f3b1366c44af78e5de391498.jpeg


(Rennsteig)

Both this type/spiral fluted extractors have the same problem: if you have it through the threaded area, the expansion pressure of driving these in/pulling tight can make a stuck thread WORSE. Remove no extra material unless you have no choice.

If you are undertaking this yourself, run a large bit through the back of the remains of the axle to clear out/center the face. I wouldn't be surprised if you broke/shattered the bit doing this, due to the uneven stress of the off-center hole. Use Cobalt or Carbide bits. In fact, you'll probably need a drill press in order to keep pressure on the (very hard) metal of the pedal axle. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to keep the piece cool, and use plenty of lubricant on the bits.

*edit* proof positive of experience:

ACtC-3dkTHxWYFMWVT1Pio0DpsSgBDaMDJv4OCikad-BvuSPm4ZsPp8eJNNmY8op0_KGtaQX-qPhikGPZZBXkYraLiLV2_Lq-XWvJG8_-ZHnCn4_B0_M5RqPargYB4hL4ALQOTFUE--hhSfMasoEqaqW-k1x=w1300-h975-no


(no, it didn't survive, but that was the least of the problems...)
What the hell kind of alien corrosion is that?!!!!
 

GSTim

Formerly M3Tim
You could try to hammer something like this into it to bite. I had to do similar with a rounded 5mm bolt on my carbon frame recently... hammered a T25 into it and cranked that sucker out. Not sure what size you’d need for 8mm pedals.

This.
 
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