Ask an automobile mechanic.

qclabrat

Well-Known Member
PSA, VW has an extension warranty on intake manifolds. If the codes check out BW VW will repair at no cost.
 

w_b

Well-Known Member
I literally found a snap on 10mm 6pt 3/8 drive in the gutter in front of my house this morning. Not mine either.

SCORE!

On a sadder note, the 30yo 225hp outboard on Ya Sista’s A$$ finally STB. I will now pay more for a new outboard than I originally paid for the entire boat.

And I will like it. Not a DIY repower doe, paying the pros on this one. Yay boats!
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
I literally found a snap on 10mm 6pt 3/8 drive in the gutter in front of my house this morning. Not mine either.

SCORE!

On a sadder note, the 30yo 225hp outboard on Ya Sista’s A$$ finally STB. I will now pay more for a new outboard than I originally paid for the entire boat.

And I will like it. Not a DIY repower doe, paying the pros on this one. Yay boats!
I heard someone at work say BOAT means Break Out Another Thousand
 

Bisquick

Well-Known Member
Wanted to give everyone a update on the state of the Infiniti...

It started to make some knocking/slapping noises really loudly on my commute home from work. I was only a mile from home, and knew it didn't have much life anyways. I gave it full throttle, and within seconds (I don't think it even got to redline) it gave out. Pulled over and tried to start it a few times, it sputtered a few times before its final death.

I got a junkyard motor with 130k and a 90 day full warranty for $400. While the pics arnt here of it going in, or the motors being swapped I have it in now and it runs awesome. Need to buckle up a few things in the next few days and it should be ready to go. Mainly rebuild a CV that fell apart after yanking on it, and weld a new flex pipe into the exhaust. You can see where I cut it dangling under the car.

First time I have ever done an engine, and 90% of it was by myself. Certainly learned a lot, but don't know if I am going to be doing another in my moms driveway anytime soon.

IMG_3798.JPG1IMG_3786.jpg2IMG_3794.jpgIMG_3788.JPG
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
yes old synthetics vs modern synthetics are completely different animals (im not sure of the details, my wife is the chemical engineer who actually designs the motor oils for living). The short version of the story is if you keep the oil topped off, and have reasonably normal driving habits, 10k mile changes wont hurt anything. The mfg recommends them that way and you (general consumers) should listen to them, they spend alot of time and money optimizing both the vehicle itself and the oils that go into them. Modern synthetics have such good additive packages that they hold contaminants in suspension. I havent done an oil change less than 10k miles in the last 8 years and even do periodic oil analysis on the engines and they all come back good. even volatility on modern oils is lower (you have less of it evaporating off for lack of a better way to explain this)

I have little doubt that i could run 15k miles on a change. (i havent seen a filter rated for more than 15k mile drain interval, and changing the filter without the oil just seems silly to me) If you do alot of idling, or short trips where the car doesnt warm up for a while you may want to change more frequently since that dumps extra fuel into the oil (which breaks down additives) and additional contaminates.

p.s. the oil companies have lawyers that wouldn't let them advertise these change intervals without test data to support the extended drain being harmless, it would only take one person suing the company for ruining their engine with the extended drain to completely turn their tune around since $$$$ is what everything is about.


so coming back to this, got the report back from blackstone with (just) over 15k on the oil in my truck, still looks good, (TBN around 2, 1 is spent, higher is better) and it looks like i could potentially run this next one even longer (if i find a filter rated for 20k i may just try it)
 

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Bisquick

Well-Known Member
Driveway engine swap. Engine out the bottom no less. Nice!

Cinder blocks under cars make me twitchy but I see you have additional supports.

The whole process certainly did not feel safe. From using cinder blocks and bricks with a harbor freight jack, to using a seatbelt attached to the exhaust manifolds and suspending the it in the air to mate the transmission and engine. While this time it was fully in control, next time I would 100% use more safety equipment.
 

UtahJoe

Team Workhorse
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Kudos to you for tackling this job and for $400, why not? However, man...there is NO WAY id ever get under a car like that...if anything, put the back up as high as you can as well and try to somewhat level the car....With that crazy angle you are on, id say there is a chance it can slip. Even if its a remote chance.
 

Bisquick

Well-Known Member
Kudos to you for tackling this job and for $400, why not? However, man...there is NO WAY id ever get under a car like that...if anything, put the back up as high as you can as well and try to somewhat level the car....With that crazy angle you are on, id say there is a chance it can slip. Even if its a remote chance.
Totally agree, wouldn't do this again... I did have 2x 1500lbs ratchet straps on the 4x6 to the back tow hooks to stop slippage. At the highest angles it did start to slip every so slightly. Back wheels were also e-brake'd, and chocked. I was under the car when the front was this high for less than a minute total. Still terrifying.
 

JerseyPete

Well-Known Member
I would also shove the tires/rims under the car as well. gets them out of the way and limits how far the car will drop if something fails.
 
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Magic

Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Wanted to give everyone a update on the state of the Infiniti...

It started to make some knocking/slapping noises really loudly on my commute home from work. I was only a mile from home, and knew it didn't have much life anyways. I gave it full throttle, and within seconds (I don't think it even got to redline) it gave out. Pulled over and tried to start it a few times, it sputtered a few times before its final death.

I got a junkyard motor with 130k and a 90 day full warranty for $400. While the pics arnt here of it going in, or the motors being swapped I have it in now and it runs awesome. Need to buckle up a few things in the next few days and it should be ready to go. Mainly rebuild a CV that fell apart after yanking on it, and weld a new flex pipe into the exhaust. You can see where I cut it dangling under the car.

First time I have ever done an engine, and 90% of it was by myself. Certainly learned a lot, but don't know if I am going to be doing another in my moms driveway anytime soon.

That is nutty, but nice work! Reminds me of my friends MR2 engine and auto-to-manual swap. The engine has to come out the bottom, so we dropped the engine onto a creeper and lifted the back of the car with the engine lift to slide it out. Late-night high school driveway mechanic-ing.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
my nephew trusting the jack, jackstand, and tire under the car. (i know, we all did this tho.)
We are drilling out the flange studs on the exhaust manifolds. too complicated to pull them off, and re-tap them,
there is a through-bolt solution.

how does a 6 cyl engine with two carbs only produce like 70 HP.

'68 Corvair Monza

I know you are digging the flipped a/f housing.

IMG_0792.JPG

I asked him when he is going to bend that rear valance back into place, so it doesn't look so odd.
He is still 16, so not driving it until feb. Seems like it will be a death car in the snow, assuming it starts in the cold.
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
Question for the experienced mechanics here.

mother in law calls her 2012 Chevy malibu won’t start. Typically this has come up because due to her depression cycles she doesn’t get out much and forgets that I tell her to at least start the car 1 time a week. I already replaced the battery a year ago so I knew it had to be something else.

Went over with my son and jump started it. Decided to take it to my house and park it out front for now in case it somehow does need a battery I can just work on it here. My son goes to drive it and the dash indicator for “door ajar” keeps flashing and the drivers side lock keeps popping back up.

Once we get it to my house we realize the lock won’t stay locked unless you manually push it. The big problem and probably why the battery went dead is the dome lights stay on. Even when driving. After driving about 10 minutes they go off but not once it’s parked.

Had to disconnect the battery terminal for now but based on my google it’s a known issue with the door activation lock/switch.

She’s on fixed income so trying to figure out if it’s worth the hassle of trying to tackle this DIY or not. Some YouTube videos seem a bit complicated and with my gorilla sized hands I can see how I will have issues trying to fix it inside the door.
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
if it’s worth the hassle

yes

can you disable it somehow - it is probably a normally closed switch which is held open when the door is closed.
pith it from the outside? It is already broken, can't break it more?
 

iman29

Well-Known Member
yes

can you disable it somehow - it is probably a normally closed switch which is held open when the door is closed.
pith it from the outside? It is already broken, can't break it more?
yeah I didnt try anything yesterday just more diagnosis. My first thought was to take out the dome lightbulbs since she doesnt drive at night but then she will still see the "door ajar" error.

Hoping i can poke around inside the door latch and see if i can trip the switch so it thinks the door is closed.

will put this on hold for tomorrow when its raining and I can pull the car into the garage. stay tuned...
 
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