Ask an automobile mechanic.

don

Well-Known Member
industrial engine meaning stationary operation (i.e. generator, big water pump ect). There should be specs for that equipment as to how level it needs to be, the engine is likely mounted level relative to the equipment mounting points so that the level of the equipment is the same as the engine, should give you a good range.

i would expect 4degrees to do much personally.

The R2.8 has a whole install manual and a video series but never mentions engine angle. From some of the hot-rod pages I've read it sounds like 3 degrees is the magic number for the carb to be level. A buddy on the LR site mentioned a little tilt to the tranny side would help with bleeding the coolant. I'm going to cut and maybe tack the mounts and see where the engine lands with weight on the whole thing. Right now it's hanging on the cherry picker with no weight at all on the chassis so could be closer to level when done.
 

Bike N Gear

Shop: Bike N Gear
Shop Keep
so what was coming out of vent, could it have been electrical smoke? something under that dash maybe melt? short out the radio?


ya I have seen bad alternator, or even battery make a modern car act weird.....in my focus when the battery was dying after 6 years...it would disconnect for a fraction of a second, long enough to cause computers to reset when i was driving....did some weird things.
Who knows. My son ignored the car for 3 days then started it up and everything is fine again. I'll wait for the call next time he drives a long distance.
 

GSTim

Formerly M3Tim
Who knows. My son ignored the car for 3 days then started it up and everything is fine again. I'll wait for the call next time he drives a long distance.
Yeah it might be alternator/Voltage regulator going. BMWs are notorious for this. If the battery or alternator are dying and the voltage is off all sorts of weird stuff happens (limp mode, shutting off etc.). On my daughter's 325, she called me once and said the car wouldn't move forward only in reverse. I was sweating that the trans was shot, but looked at some stuff on line and replaced the battery, everything was fine. 170K miles and I've replaced the battery about 5 times and the alternator twice. Still has the OG trans. 🤞 Knock on wood too!
 

GSTim

Formerly M3Tim
PS. I wouldn't wait, just replace the alternator/voltage regulator. It can (and will) strand you. Ask me how I know. :mad:
 

mfennell

Well-Known Member
Installing a Cummins R2.8 crate and need to weld in new frame side engine mounts. I'm trying to figure what angle the engine should reside front to rear.
So busy arguing about EVs I missed this completely. I had no idea such an engine existed. So cool!

Assuming you have u-joints at either end of the driveshaft, I thought that what's important is that the output angle of the transmission be very close (within 1 degree) of the angle on the other end. In your case, the transfer case is going to determine the correct angle for the engine. Google "driveline angle".
 
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don

Well-Known Member
So busy arguing about EVs I missed this completely. I had no idea such an engine existed. So cool!

Assuming you have u-joints at either end of the driveshaft, I thought that what's important is that the output angle of the transmission be very close (within 1 degree) of the angle on the other end. In your case, the transfer case is going to determine the correct angle for the engine. Google "driveline angle".

Thanks - very good points. I was actually checking that part of it last night (and moving on from the actual engine angle). The transfer case is in the same stock location with the 2 stock mounts that attach to the frame so I won't have to re-lengthen the DS's.

I'm going to remeasure but the output on the rear pinion was 85 deg and the rear x-fer case output is 86.5 deg so I'm close but would like to make sure it's within that 1 degree difference like you said. The front is way off angle wise but that is the case even with a stock setup.

And the R2.8 is indeed cool. It seems like a great match for an older 4x4 that is looking for modern power and a cleaner burn. So much so that they are hard to come by these days. Last I heard the waiting time on order is 6 months.
 

don

Well-Known Member
I think I finally got the position of that Cummins in the best spot for my application.

Engine is tilted back toward the gearbox 2.5 degrees and is pretty much centered across the frame looking at it.

I pulled the RH spring and let the bumpstop hit the front axle to check downpipe and pan clearance. Transfer case seems to be very close to stock based on how it lays in the seatbox/tunnel area. It's a little yawed (if that's a word) to the right hand side to make clearance for the power steering box.

Rear diff pinion angle is 85.5 degrees, transfer case output is 87.5 degrees. I figure if I have rear DS vibrations due to the angles I could lengthen the lower trailing arms to steepen to match transfer case angle. They have them for lifted Defenders (and Disco 1's and RRC).

Pics of crank angle, clearance and RH engine mount.
 

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qclabrat

Well-Known Member
Bought my 15 Tiguan to the mechanic for a check engine light. It threw a code for a dirty intake manifold which the guy didn't have the VW tools to do the maintenance. Where's a good VW mech near Bridgewater area for this?
 

auntjemima

Well-Known Member
Have a 2001 Infiniti I30, it has 159k miles. Do all my own maintenance, car has never seen a shop since I got it at 67k. Three oil changes ago the oil was spot on at drain time. two change ago it was about a half qt low. I assumed it was my fault and I under filled. No leak or obvious evidence of burning.

Something must have happened in between 3 and 2 changed ago. Idiot light came on, and I was 3 qts low after 3k miles. Filled it up, but am probably too late. Burns oil like crazy now. No idea what happened so suddenly to cause it to lose oil like this. Still no leaks.

Here we are 1300 miles after that, I have had to add 4 qts to keep it up. The oil is black and sludgy, very clear sparkly gold bearing material in the oil.

Bank 1
Cyl 1: 212 PSI Very minor fouling
Cyl 3: 210 PSI Totally dry, good looking plug
Cyl 5: 220 PSI Very minor fouling

Bank 2
Cyl 2: 152 PSI dry, 175 wet Major fouling
Cyl 4: 162 PSI dry, 210 wet Slightly less major fouling
Cyl 6: 195 PSI Mid level fouling

At this point I know its probably stupid to rebuild, can get a junkyard motor with a warranty for under 600. Anyone have any ideas what could caused this failure? I have been pretty spot on with the maintenance, and kind of upset to see it die prematurely.
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
looks like a problem on bank 2, possibly a cracked head or blown headgasket in the cyl 2 and 4 area.

hows the coolant look?
 

shrpshtr325

Infinite Source of Sarcasm
Team MTBNJ Halter's
it sounds to me like you have a break in the headgasket between the cylinders on bank 2 and the oil jackets. however a cracked head could also result in similar issues. Time to do heads on the car it sounds like.

although with 159k miles on an infinity id say you made out pretty good.
 

UtahJoe

Team Workhorse
Team MTBNJ Halter's
Have a 2001 Infiniti I30, it has 159k miles. Do all my own maintenance, car has never seen a shop since I got it at 67k. Three oil changes ago the oil was spot on at drain time. two change ago it was about a half qt low. I assumed it was my fault and I under filled. No leak or obvious evidence of burning.

Something must have happened in between 3 and 2 changed ago. Idiot light came on, and I was 3 qts low after 3k miles. Filled it up, but am probably too late. Burns oil like crazy now. No idea what happened so suddenly to cause it to lose oil like this. Still no leaks.

Here we are 1300 miles after that, I have had to add 4 qts to keep it up. The oil is black and sludgy, very clear sparkly gold bearing material in the oil.

Bank 1
Cyl 1: 212 PSI Very minor fouling
Cyl 3: 210 PSI Totally dry, good looking plug
Cyl 5: 220 PSI Very minor fouling

Bank 2
Cyl 2: 152 PSI dry, 175 wet Major fouling
Cyl 4: 162 PSI dry, 210 wet Slightly less major fouling
Cyl 6: 195 PSI Mid level fouling

At this point I know its probably stupid to rebuild, can get a junkyard motor with a warranty for under 600. Anyone have any ideas what could caused this failure? I have been pretty spot on with the maintenance, and kind of upset to see it die prematurely.
Metal in the oil, low compression, losing alot of oil...oil on the plugs....Im guessing you must be getting some blue smoke or at least the smell of oil burning....Sounds like rings to me. If you can get a decent junkyard motor for that cheap, I wouldnt bother touching this one.
 

jackx

Well-Known Member
Changed coolant 50k or so ago (1.5 years) when I did the radiator. Still looks as green and non milky as new. I have done a exhaust gas in coolant screening and there is none. There is also no oil in the trans.
Good that the coolant doesn't look like green/brown cappuccino. Sorry to hear that the oil is sludgy and has gold bearing material in it.

Hope you can find a decent second-hand motor for as cheap as $600.
 

skully

Active Member
Have a 2001 Infiniti I30, it has 159k miles. Do all my own maintenance, car has never seen a shop since I got it at 67k. Three oil changes ago the oil was spot on at drain time. two change ago it was about a half qt low. I assumed it was my fault and I under filled. No leak or obvious evidence of burning.

Something must have happened in between 3 and 2 changed ago. Idiot light came on, and I was 3 qts low after 3k miles. Filled it up, but am probably too late. Burns oil like crazy now. No idea what happened so suddenly to cause it to lose oil like this. Still no leaks.

Here we are 1300 miles after that, I have had to add 4 qts to keep it up. The oil is black and sludgy, very clear sparkly gold bearing material in the oil.

Bank 1
Cyl 1: 212 PSI Very minor fouling
Cyl 3: 210 PSI Totally dry, good looking plug
Cyl 5: 220 PSI Very minor fouling

Bank 2
Cyl 2: 152 PSI dry, 175 wet Major fouling
Cyl 4: 162 PSI dry, 210 wet Slightly less major fouling
Cyl 6: 195 PSI Mid level fouling

At this point I know its probably stupid to rebuild, can get a junkyard motor with a warranty for under 600. Anyone have any ideas what could caused this failure? I have been pretty spot on with the maintenance, and kind of upset to see it die prematurely.
If I am understanding your testing correctly, for test on bank #2 ....you list dry compression and "wet" compression results??? .....if you put a little oil in the cylinders for the "wet" test and your compression increased that much152psi cyc #2 to 175 psi .....I would say you have a bad set of rings and or maybe some cyc wall scoring
 

auntjemima

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input everyone... I am 100% getting smoke, moreso when on the throttle hard. Under full load, 5-6k RPM I am basically putting out a smoke screen.
it sounds to me like you have a break in the headgasket between the cylinders on bank 2 and the oil jackets
This is also sounding most likely to me, it kind of makes sense that it burns more at high RPM too, as PCV system gets overloaded the extra crank pressure forces more oil in past the journals... At least thats my current entirely uneducated theory.

If I am understanding your testing correctly, for test on bank #2 ....you list dry compression and "wet" compression results??? .....if you put a little oil in the cylinders for the "wet" test and your compression increased that much152psi cyc #2 to 175 psi .....I would say you have a bad set of rings and or maybe some cyc wall scoring
Yep, 5ml of engine oil.


So, I am probably going to run it until it is very very dead unless it is unsafe. How violent should I expect the motor failing to be? Just loss of power resulting in no brake assist or power steering? Or wheels locking up?
 

Patrick

Overthinking the draft from the basement already
Staff member
So, I am probably going to run it until it is very very dead unless it is unsafe. How violent should I expect the motor failing to be? Just loss of power resulting in no brake assist or power steering? Or wheels locking up?

wheels won't lock-up. if the engine throws something because it seizes, it could get messy, depending on which way things go.

this is a tough decision. get a cheap borescope on amazon and check the cylinder walls?

hate to lose a motor over a headgasket. Rings are tougher, and if it is scored, then it is kinda done.
 
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